Timing issue 360 LA

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JonathanH

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Morning all

I have been reading threads on here for months as we build our dart and work on a few other Mopar projects at the same time. I usually dont like to post as if you search long enough you can find your answers. However this time I am stumped.
Here is what we are working with: We my 13 yr old and I, have built a 360 for our dart, we have replaced the pistons, rings, ( New Thumper cam and lifers / valve springs to match the cam as suggested by comp cams), New valve seals, new timing gears ( Set dot to dot, with the #1 cylinder at DTC), New elderbrock intake and holey 4150 double pumper carb, oh and long tube headers . I think that is all of the main components we installed.

We set the dist where is looked good for an inital start, and timing as close as you can for your inital start, we seemed to have gotten lucky and she fired right up, ran it at 2000 RPM to break in the cam, all was going well. Did the break in for 20 min, everything looked well, no leaks that were major, just tighten up some hose clamps.

So now lets set the timing. Here is where it goes bad. The timing is WAY retarded, We double checked TDC #1, just with a wooden dowel ( I am making a piston stop today and will make the proper mark tonight), no matter how much we turned the dist it would not come past 10* ATDC. It idled well, but any amount of throttle and she broke up. We triple checked the firing order, making sure #1 plug wire was at #1 tdc rotor button. We had wired in a MSD box and coil less dist but bc of the size we could not advance it enoough to get past 10*atdc maybe even 15.

Wanting to rule out the dist or my wiring ect I went back to the factory dist and coil. Now we could get to 1*atdc but then the engine dies if I try and go further, I could set the curb idle screw to make the engine rev higher to adjust it more but should i have too?

This would be our 4th engine build, but first mopar.

Tonight we check TDC with the piston stop, we will do a compression check. What else should I be checking. It is also the first cam we have done with this much thump, maybe it does require me to set the curb idle screw in a few turns to achieve this BTDC timing. From my reading on the site with a big cam I should be pushing 15-20* BTDC at this rate I will never get there.

Thank you in advance for the help. Below is the Cam info as I know most of the time this is asked for.

1706020565868.png
 
You need approximately 17* initial timing and somewhere around 34* total timing.
 
You should be able to turn the dist. unless something is obstructing it and get some change in the timing. It doesn't take a lot of movement to get 10 degrees.
 
You should be able to turn the dist. unless something is obstructing it and get some change in the timing. It doesn't take a lot of movement to get 10 degrees.
With the MSD the Vac advance was against the intake. I can turn the factory dist thats fine, but the car dies way before im at the timing I am looking to achieve.
 
I question the timing marks you are reading. The harmonic balancer is off? Wrong timing cover??
 
Any chance the distributor pickup wires are swapped.
That would cause what you described.
 
I question the timing marks you are reading. The harmonic balancer is off? Wrong timing cover??
The timing marks should be correct, the cover is the original cover. The balancer could be off. I will check that tonight withthe piston stop.
 
The power is going to the + and ground to the -. I checked this and the wires with a test light.
All input is appreicated, I have been on here reading a lot, so I have prob checked most things, but I must have missed something.
 
The oil pump / distro shaft could also be off a tooth, thus not bending in the timing range at it should be
 
The oil pump / distro shaft could also be off a tooth, thus not bending in the timing range at it should be
You are correct here. It is DEFF off, from what I read it the rotor button should be pointing to around the front intake bolt, mine is pointing to the firewall. If I arrange my plugs in the right order tho does this matter?? Actual to think of it the rotor button does not point directly at a spark plug its in between a plug. Could this be the issue? Should I arrange this gear so that my dist is pointing to the correct spot? I thought as long as my plugs wires were on correct it would be fine? As long as at TDC #1, I put the #1 plug wire where the rotor button is I am ok?
 
When you have the motor at DTC, and you put the oil pump shaft in, the slot in the top that the blade of the distro fits into should be facing #1, then when you drop in the distro, it should be facing number one.

As a side note, you should always degree a cam when it goes in. There are times when the “timing dots” are not correct.
 
When you have the motor at DTC, and you put the oil pump shaft in, the slot in the top that the blade of the distro fits into should be facing #1, then when you drop in the distro, it should be facing number one.

As a side note, you should always degree a cam when it goes in. There are times when the “timing dots” are not correct.
Ok, I better start with this, it is facing number 7 or 5, more around there. I just thought from my reading that none of that matters if you put the wires in the correct spot. I just moved my wires so they started at number 5
 
You are correct here. It is DEFF off, from what I read it the rotor button should be pointing to around the front intake bolt, mine is pointing to the firewall. If I arrange my plugs in the right order tho does this matter?? Actual to think of it the rotor button does not point directly at a spark plug its in between a plug. Could this be the issue? Should I arrange this gear so that my dist is pointing to the correct spot? I thought as long as my plugs wires were on correct it would be fine? As long as at TDC #1, I put the #1 plug wire where the rotor button is I am ok?
Where the slot is in the shaft has absolutely will have nothing to do if you can time the car. Nothing. You are correct, you can move the position of the plug wires on the distributor to compensate for this. It's only better to have it there for simplicity of assembly and putting it kosher as in uniform to how small blocks are. Less confusing. But moving the plug wires will compensate for this.
 
Where the slot is in the shaft has absolutely will have nothing to do if you can time the car. Nothing. You are correct, you can move the position of the plug wires on the distributor to compensate for this. It's only better to have it there for simplicity of assembly and putting it kosher as in uniform to how small blocks are. Less confusing. But moving the plug wires will compensate for this.
Damit, this would have been an easy fix.
 
318 is correct. It’s not that hard to change the shaft though. It makes it easier when it’s set as the factory would have..
 
Degree the cam. It sounds to me like it’s one of those deals where the crank gear has two dots and it’s timed with the keyway facing up. Pic stolen from the web.
EA73ABC0-D2A3-4247-806A-9A326124996B.png
 
Degree the cam. It sounds to me like it’s one of those deals where the crank gear has two dots and it’s timed with the keyway facing up. Pic stolen from the web.
View attachment 1716196373
I was 99% sure we did the cam gear timing correct. But it is possible. I have never run into an issue like this so it must be something out of the ordinary. Now is there a way I can check this without removing the engine and tearing it down again. I have no issues doing it if I know its wrong, but to spend the time, and money on new gaskets to do it and its correct would suck Thx
 
I was 99% sure we did the cam gear timing correct. But it is possible. I have never run into an issue like this so it must be something out of the ordinary. Now is there a way I can check this without removing the engine and tearing it down again. I have no issues doing it if I know its wrong, but to spend the time, and money on new gaskets to do it and its correct would suck Thx
I guess its not that much work, I was thinking taking the whole engine down again, heads off ect ect, but really I am just removing the water pump and timing cover.
 
I was 99% sure we did the cam gear timing correct. But it is possible. I have never run into an issue like this so it must be something out of the ordinary. Now is there a way I can check this without removing the engine and tearing it down again. I have no issues doing it if I know its wrong, but to spend the time, and money on new gaskets to do it and its correct would suck Thx
Find true top dead center on number one. Then rotate the engine to split overlap on number 1 and look at the top of both lifters. They should be very close to level with each other. That’s a quick down a dirty way to tell if the cam is timed “close”.
 
Find true top dead center on number one. Then rotate the engine to split overlap on number 1 and look at the top of both lifters. They should be very close to level with each other. That’s a quick down a dirty way to tell if the cam is timed “close”.
Great I will try that tonight
 
Ok here are our results. First off make sure your piston stop is long enough or it won’t work lol. 2nd the timing mark was dead on. 3rd when your having you son watch the timing light make sure he knows which line lol. When we set the perfect tdc using the piston stop I Made it extra thick. Son says that’s not the line I’ve been using lol. Long story short. Only put one mark on your balancer. Ends up just me being stupid. Works great now.
 
Valuable lessons learned. I’d say well worth it. At least you didn’t have to tear in to the engine.
 
That cam is going to need at least 25* BTDC of timing for best idle. Probably a lot more, closer to 35*.

See the link below.

img307.jpg
 
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