Timing set questions

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4spdcuda66

4spdcuda66

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I just put this Cloyes timing set on a '66 poly 318. The marks on the gears are BOTH at the top, instead of crank mark up and cam mark down, facing each other. The gears I just took off were the same way. I always thought the marks were supposed to point at each other. The installation instructions also show them facing each other. Are these marks correct? Before I took it apart to swap the timing set, I verified TDC on #1, balancer mark on 0, and rotor pointing toward #1 intake bolt. Secondly, there is just as much slack, if not more, on this new chain as the old one. Is this slack normal, or do I have a defective timing set?

chain 1.jpg


chain 2.jpg
 
with it at #1 TDC compression yes the marks are at 12/12 like where you are at now. wouldn't hurt to turn it 1 turn to get on 6/12 cuz it is easier to confirm that the dots are lined up vertical/plumb without the crank snout in the way. I ain't sure why for decades manuals/instruction sheets never mention that at 6/12 you are on #6 compression not #1 cuz #1 compression is a standard starting point! and the pics always show 6/12 cuz that is needed to confirm the straight line. We lost a race once cuz of this, wouldn't restart & we couldn't figure out why till later. right now for you at 12/12 you are at #1 compression so just get the dampener slit at 15 or wherever you are comfortable with & time the dist ready to fire (magnet even with the tooth) & with the rotor is under the #1 post in the dist cap.
 
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Look, man, the top sprocket turns 1/2 the speed of the bottom one. That means if you rotate the crank 1 turn they WILL be matching

Also, the way you have it there is no1 ready to fire. Several timing sets (engines) are actually on no6 ready to fire (compression) when the marks are "dot to dot". I don't know about Ferd, but chev and Mopar are that way. Why they are made that way is beyond me.

So far as chain slack, might be due to variance in engine casting/ machining, OR the engine may have been line bored at some point. I'm told you can buy undersized chains but have never dealt with them.

If this is not a performance build, and especially if you did not "degree" the cam anyhow, a little slack will "never know."
 
What about that chain slack? I thought those were supposed to be be pretty tight with virtually no slack. Is this ok?
 
4spdcuda66 said:
What about that chain slack? I thought those were supposed to be be pretty tight with virtually no slack. Is this ok?
Click to expand...

There should be a little slack in a new chain...

If they were too tight, you wouldn't be able to get them on...
 
krazykuda said:
There should be a little slack in a new chain...

If they were too tight, you wouldn't be able to get them on...
Click to expand...
++++
mine was the tightest I`ve ever messed with, was hard to get it on, just the way I likem. looks like you do need an under sized chain, try a .005 under.
 
Chebby is the same,photo was at 6/12 and guy battled trying to get it to fire. I explained the service manual photo had the marks together basically for reference only, to turn crank 1 turn to line dizzy up to number one.
His eye roll told me he didnt get it so i need to demonstrate. His biggest issue was he pulled distributor to line everything up.
 
66fyssh said:
Awesome! I see your oil pan still there. Did you not pull it?

I need to replace mine, pretty sure its still the original.
Click to expand...
I didn't pull the oil pan. I cleaned everything really well and sealed the front of the pan with "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. The gasket kit came with the oil pan/timing cover seal, but trying to get it in there with the timing cover was not happening. Just be sure to seal the tab holes in the pan if you do it that way! That is some durable gasket maker though.
 
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