Tips for the track?

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jrc4y4

jrc4y4

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Haven’t had my car at the track since 2007. Back then it was basic rebuild 318 with 2.76 gears manifolds, and ran 15.2s. Zero traction issues. Today it’s still the 318 but with ported and bigger valve 302 heads and headers, same .480 lift cam, 2800 stall, and 3.92s. I imagine traction may be a slight issue or is the track prep likely to be enough on a test and tune night? I imagine a helmet and pants will be all the safety equipment I need as I’m expecting 14s.

Anything that you all would go over prior to running? Things to look for and tweak throughout the night? Car is running fine. Will have 93 octane in it and bring a timing light, distributor wrench, and a screwdriver to mess with the carb if I need it. It’s just been so long I’m not sure what to expect but would like the most I can get out of the night. Thanks!

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It's gonna be a different animal than it was back then. Write down your baseline (jets/timing/tire pressure/weather) beforehand. I'd start out with staging at about 1500 or so, mat the pedal during the last yellow, maybe shift @ 5800-6000 depending on how it's pulling. Minimum running after you pull off, yank a plug or two on the return road for a reading. Adjust things if necessary after that. It's real handy to have someone knowledgeable and who can relay accurate info watch the car leave. Might need to clamp front spring sections depending on what it has & how it leaves.
 
Most importantly, go over your safety checklist: wheel nuts torqued, suspension bolts tight, fire extinguisher in car, oil level full, etc, etc. Go get'm and have a blast!!
 
Thanks guys. I will go over these items and make sure all is well. I assume I’ll be in the 14s. Would be tickled to flirt with 13s but I just don’t think it has it in it.
 
Just noticed the lug nuts - if you have open-ended ones, some tech guys are big on seeing the wheel studs, no matter the ET. If you swap them on, it may save you some hassle.
You might get away with not having a driveshaft loop, but it's easier to get through Tech having one, and a good idea nevertheless. 1-quart puke tank is another basic deal.
You might want to call or email the track to see what they want, before you show up.
I assume you've been to that track before, and know where everything is; if not, it may be a good idea to do some recon beforehand: where Tech happens, the top-end turn-off, where water & compressed air might be, what the starting line guys want as far as treaded tires @ the water box...
 
topside said:
Just noticed the lug nuts - if you have open-ended ones, some tech guys are big on seeing the wheel studs, no matter the ET. If you swap them on, it may save you some hassle.
You might get away with not having a driveshaft loop, but it's easier to get through Tech having one, and a good idea nevertheless. 1-quart puke tank is another basic deal.
You might want to call or email the track to see what they want, before you show up.
I assume you've been to that track before, and know where everything is; if not, it may be a good idea to do some recon beforehand: where Tech happens, the top-end turn-off, where water & compressed air might be, what the starting line guys want as far as treaded tires @ the water box...
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Brand new track. Flying H in Odessa MO. Good idea. I will reach out to the track and see what they have to say. I don’t have an overflow, driveshaft loop, or open lugs. Thanks for the tips!
 
jrc4y4 said:
Brand new track. Flying H in Odessa MO. Good idea. I will reach out to the track and see what they have to say. I don’t have an overflow, driveshaft loop, or open lugs. Thanks for the tips!
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Just a guess but most tracks will (rightfully) insist on an overflow bottle. On a temporary basis, any type of old plastic bottle may suffice. That is IF tech even lifts the hood like they should.

Oh, and double throttle return springs are in EVERYBODY'S best interest!
 
With a street tire you should feather the car out of the hole about ten feet and then be able to floor it to control wheel spin. A safety loop and drag radials would help the et and fun factor.
 
Unless you have seriously old rear springs, just leave them alone. The front A body spring section is so short, you really need a bunch of power and a sticky tire to get wheel hop. My advice is to avoid the puddles that form in front of the burn out box. Line up a bit offset. Don’t spin the tire IN the water. That just throws the water up into the wheelhouse so it rains down as you stage. A quick spin of the tire to clean it and you’re ready. I would be pretty aggressive on launch. You really should get more and more aggressive until it spins the tire. The usual, watch for the other guy turning across your lane. If it feels weird/wrong/smokes. Pull over to the wall as safely as possible and stop. Have fun most important!
 
Play with tire pressures. Spin the tire in the street, you want an even color all the way across. Dark outer edges? Add 2 lbs. Dark center? Lower 2 lbs. Continue until it is even.
 
furrystump said:
Unless you have seriously old rear springs, just leave them alone. The front A body spring section is so short, you really need a bunch of power and a sticky tire to get wheel hop. My advice is to avoid the puddles that form in front of the burn out box. Line up a bit offset. Don’t spin the tire IN the water. That just throws the water up into the wheelhouse so it rains down as you stage. A quick spin of the tire to clean it and you’re ready. I would be pretty aggressive on launch. You really should get more and more aggressive until it spins the tire. The usual, watch for the other guy turning across your lane. If it feels weird/wrong/smokes. Pull over to the wall as safely as possible and stop. Have fun most important!
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Springs are less than 2 years old. I’m running the Espo set. I’ve never gotten wheel hop on the street. Have a pinion snubber if that helps at all.
 
mderoy340 said:
With a street tire you should feather the car out of the hole about ten feet and then be able to floor it to control wheel spin. A safety loop and drag radials would help the et and fun factor.
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Yeah would be cool but just not in the cards right now unfortunately.
 
Pinion snubber was a cheap solution to a problem that is much easier and better solved differently now a days. A snubber is just too violent. Shocks are just so much better at controlling axle movement. You give me a “snubber” that uses an adjustable small shock and I would play around with it. Rigid snubber is just going to bounce the tire. A Caltrac or if you REALLY start hopping you can add a couple of leaves and clamp. Removing the rear clamps lets the spring fan out more. I don’t run any rear clamps,and I have had no issues on the street, but A bodies tend to separate a bunch already because of where the instant center is(front spring eye) gives them a high % of rise(they separate a bunch) controlling that gets harder and harder the more power you make.
 
Ok good to know. I’m guessing by now I’m probably 300ish hp. Never any wheel hop in any street action. Not sure if that will be changing on a prepped track. We will see.
 
Taking the clamps off lets the car anti squat and push the tire into the track. Clamps on the rear hinder the process. IMHO.
 
jrc4y4 said:
Brand new track. Flying H in Odessa MO. Good idea. I will reach out to the track and see what they have to say. I don’t have an overflow, driveshaft loop, or open lugs. Thanks for the tips!
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I'd like to know this info also. Can you please post what the track says?

When are you planning on going? Maybe we could have a Mopar day at the track. I know a few people who might be interested.
 
BrianT said:
I'd like to know this info also. Can you please post what the track says?

When are you planning on going? Maybe we could have a Mopar day at the track. I know a few people who might be interested.
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I am going Wednesday the 15th. I will email them and see what they say.
 
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