tire pressure recommendations for these
- Thread starter Dave NEO
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I always follow the tire manufactures recommendation. Especially since that size tire never came on that car, a Decal on the car would not apply to those tires. I would run them at 35-40 PSI.
That is what they are telling the consumer, 44 is max, not 80 like my truck tires. So anywhere close to max is ok. 44 will ride stiffer than say 35. But I would suggest less than 35.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I pretty much always run them lower than what one would consider normal, especially on the back but then I watch the tread wear as time goes by and adjust it so the tread is wearing evenly across the tire.
Worn more in the center means too much pressure, and more wear on the edges means not enough.
That usually ends up around 30-35 in the fronts and 30 in the rear because the rear end is lighter than the front.
Worn more in the center means too much pressure, and more wear on the edges means not enough.
That usually ends up around 30-35 in the fronts and 30 in the rear because the rear end is lighter than the front.
If someone was to want to put a claim in for a defective tire, you better have been running close to the 44 psi, or they will not stand behind them.
I have 225x70x14 on the Dart in my avatar. I run them at 35 psi.
Hit the gas, watch how full the streaks are. If only the center leaves a streak, lower the pressure a little. When you have the back set match it with the front. That gives you maximum traction for turns and cornering. They make the tires to fit any weight car and you need to match it to yours.
AJ/FormS
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On the front
I run 235/60-14s on the front of my 68 Barracuda 360 with ps,pb. I have found that 29psi gives me many thousands of even treadwear. Since I have slowed down in the corners some, I have been getting over 40,000 miles out of Coopers or BFGs.
Now your front end is gonna be a tad heavier similarly equipped, but your tires are one size narrower. So my guess is add a pound, so 30, as TB suggests.
Also if you are an aggressive-corner kindof guy, during those times when the bug bites, 30 will not be enough. the tire may roll over onto the sidewall, and your car will feel like a giant marshmallow. Of course there is no tread on the sidewall, so they won't like that at all. At these times you might like to bump the pressure up to 35, as TB suggests.
As to the 44psi, look carefully. You will also find a load rating. it might say 1500lbs or 1600 or something like that. What the manufacturer is saying is that 44 is the maximum and the load is the maximum. So if you put that theoretical 1600 pounds on that tire, THEN you should run that maximum 44psi. At no lesser loading would you need to run the maximum.
Now my car IIRC runs about 1900 pounds on two front tires, so that is 950 pounds on one tire. There is certainly no reason for me to run 44psi. In fact if I did, the edges of the tire tread would not even touch the road. This would put all the weight on mostly the center 3 ribs, and so they would be the first to wear out, and very early I might add.
I determined the correct tire pressure for my car, when running in a straight line, by probing the ribs with a temperature sensor, over long distances, and keeping my eye on how the tire was wearing, also as TB says. If the centers are wearing faster you will need to reduce the pressure. If the centers are wearing slower, you will need to increase the pressure. Aggressive cornering needs more, as does cruising highspeed for long periods of time, to keep the tires cooler. The temperature probe is your friend.
This is the only way to select the correct tire pressure for the front of your car.
AS to the rear
In comparison, the rear is pretty easy,mostly. On same size tires, just reduce the pressure a pound or two from what is in the front, as a starting point, and then either probe it or eyeball it over time.
But since you have bigger tires in the rear, they are going to be much less loaded. The back of your car is gonna be about 150 pounds less loaded per side than the front. So number one, the 30 less 1 to 1.5 is not gonna lower the pressure enough, and if you run 28.5 you stand a good chance of burning the centers off early.
In the back rim-width plays a pretty big role in long tread life.If you run the tire on a too-narrow rim, it will pull the edges of the tire up off the pavement, and to get long even treadwear may require, such a low pressure that cornering becomes rather uncomfortable. If you run a too-wide rim, you may have to run excessive pressure to push the center of the carcass down to the road. So the trick to running a wide tire on the back is have the correct rim-width.
I run 295s on a 10 inch rim. This rim is actually too narrow. How do I know that? Cuz the correct pressure has been determined to be 24psi. Now this is pretty low, and when I go around a corner, I can feel the tires rolling over. It produces a rear-steer effect. So I can tell you that 24 is too low and 29 is too high.Wait how do I know 29 is too high? Cuz the fronts are correct at 30, and fat tires on the back on the right rims never take as much as the front,cuz remember they are less heavily loaded. So in conclusion, I suggest, on the right rim size, 27 might be the magic number.
Btw, correcting for a worn-off center is way harder than worn edges, so I try to always start with a little not enough pressure and work toward the perfect pressure.
So to recap, I would start with 29front(working up to 30) and 27rear.Adjust as necessary to either keep the temperature even across the ribs, or as necessary for long tread life. The temperature probe gets the fastest results.
Now, if you have 7-rib front tires they often exhibit the unusual wear characteristic of prematurely rubbing off the two, second-from-the-outside-edge ribs. I have never figured out how to prevent that.
I run 235/60-14s on the front of my 68 Barracuda 360 with ps,pb. I have found that 29psi gives me many thousands of even treadwear. Since I have slowed down in the corners some, I have been getting over 40,000 miles out of Coopers or BFGs.
Now your front end is gonna be a tad heavier similarly equipped, but your tires are one size narrower. So my guess is add a pound, so 30, as TB suggests.
Also if you are an aggressive-corner kindof guy, during those times when the bug bites, 30 will not be enough. the tire may roll over onto the sidewall, and your car will feel like a giant marshmallow. Of course there is no tread on the sidewall, so they won't like that at all. At these times you might like to bump the pressure up to 35, as TB suggests.
As to the 44psi, look carefully. You will also find a load rating. it might say 1500lbs or 1600 or something like that. What the manufacturer is saying is that 44 is the maximum and the load is the maximum. So if you put that theoretical 1600 pounds on that tire, THEN you should run that maximum 44psi. At no lesser loading would you need to run the maximum.
Now my car IIRC runs about 1900 pounds on two front tires, so that is 950 pounds on one tire. There is certainly no reason for me to run 44psi. In fact if I did, the edges of the tire tread would not even touch the road. This would put all the weight on mostly the center 3 ribs, and so they would be the first to wear out, and very early I might add.
I determined the correct tire pressure for my car, when running in a straight line, by probing the ribs with a temperature sensor, over long distances, and keeping my eye on how the tire was wearing, also as TB says. If the centers are wearing faster you will need to reduce the pressure. If the centers are wearing slower, you will need to increase the pressure. Aggressive cornering needs more, as does cruising highspeed for long periods of time, to keep the tires cooler. The temperature probe is your friend.
This is the only way to select the correct tire pressure for the front of your car.
AS to the rear
In comparison, the rear is pretty easy,mostly. On same size tires, just reduce the pressure a pound or two from what is in the front, as a starting point, and then either probe it or eyeball it over time.
But since you have bigger tires in the rear, they are going to be much less loaded. The back of your car is gonna be about 150 pounds less loaded per side than the front. So number one, the 30 less 1 to 1.5 is not gonna lower the pressure enough, and if you run 28.5 you stand a good chance of burning the centers off early.
In the back rim-width plays a pretty big role in long tread life.If you run the tire on a too-narrow rim, it will pull the edges of the tire up off the pavement, and to get long even treadwear may require, such a low pressure that cornering becomes rather uncomfortable. If you run a too-wide rim, you may have to run excessive pressure to push the center of the carcass down to the road. So the trick to running a wide tire on the back is have the correct rim-width.
I run 295s on a 10 inch rim. This rim is actually too narrow. How do I know that? Cuz the correct pressure has been determined to be 24psi. Now this is pretty low, and when I go around a corner, I can feel the tires rolling over. It produces a rear-steer effect. So I can tell you that 24 is too low and 29 is too high.Wait how do I know 29 is too high? Cuz the fronts are correct at 30, and fat tires on the back on the right rims never take as much as the front,cuz remember they are less heavily loaded. So in conclusion, I suggest, on the right rim size, 27 might be the magic number.
Btw, correcting for a worn-off center is way harder than worn edges, so I try to always start with a little not enough pressure and work toward the perfect pressure.
So to recap, I would start with 29front(working up to 30) and 27rear.Adjust as necessary to either keep the temperature even across the ribs, or as necessary for long tread life. The temperature probe gets the fastest results.
Now, if you have 7-rib front tires they often exhibit the unusual wear characteristic of prematurely rubbing off the two, second-from-the-outside-edge ribs. I have never figured out how to prevent that.
Last edited:
famous bob
mopar misfit
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