Toe in adjustment measurement height?

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67dartgtgo

67dartgtgo

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67 Dart, rebuilt k frame over the winter. All new components. Have the ride height good, camber good and caster as much as possible. My question is how far up the front And back of the front tires should you measure for accurate toe in? I’ve seen the old gages with the pointers and they appear to take their points pretty high up the tire. Also should you bounce the suspension after adjustment to find repeatability? I thought I had it dead on at a 16th then took it for a ride. It road great. I then remeasured at the same spots on the tire and it came to 1/2”. It had been sitting over night when I made the initial adjustment. Thanks, Brian.
 
Well you do need to "jounce" the suspension and recheck. You really by theory are supposed to measure at the same height as the centerline of the tire, IE "level front to rear
 
On home alignment method I always go to center, obviously final tow is last. Buy your poison. some of us are absconded!
 
Thank you guys. Will reassess tomorrow at the center lines.
 
When we ran our Roundy Round car we checked the toe out weekly as part of our maintenance routine. We built a set up gauge that was nothing more that a piece of 1/2” square tubing with 4” legs. There were two of them and we held then against the sidewall of the tire and we compared the measurement difference from in front and rear of the tire. The only reason for the legs were to get above the bulge of the tire. If I was doing this for a street car today I would use a short 2x4 and a plum bob to mark spots on the floor and take the measurements. The other thing is that if you make changes roll the car back and forth and remeasure everything again.
 
mcodecuda said:
When we ran our Roundy Round car we checked the toe out weekly as part of our maintenance routine. We built a set up gauge that was nothing more that a piece of 1/2” square tubing with 4” legs. There were two of them and we held then against the sidewall of the tire and we compared the measurement difference from in front and rear of the tire. The only reason for the legs were to get above the bulge of the tire. If I was doing this for a street car today I would use a short 2x4 and a plum bob to mark spots on the floor and take the measurements. The other thing is that if you make changes roll the car back and forth and remeasure everything again.
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I have used a 2/4 w/ nails driven in it and marked the tires , then measured the front and back to get the toe in. W/ MOST CARS TODAY , U CANT GET 1/2 WAY UP THE TIRE IN THE REAR TO MEASURE IT , STILLNEED TO COME UP W/ SOMETHING------------like the above post.
 
If the camber was dead nuts zero, you could measure toe at any height but that is rarely the case hence the measurement is taken at spindle height. Camber has no affect on toe at spindle height. Same as the aforementioned of "center" but a little more detailed as to why. :)
 
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Bodyperson said:
If the camber was dead nuts zero, you could measure toe at any height but that is rarely the case hence the measurement is taken at spindle height. Camber has no affect on toe at spindle height. Same as the aforementioned of "center" but a little more detailed as to why. :)
Click to expand...


And also because if you measure higher/ lower than spindle "by much" the tire effectively gets smaller, and the tow will become less. Imagine a tire 6" in diameter, and a tire 40" in diameter. Without actually changing the tow, it would measure vastly different between the two tires.
 
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