Torque boxes needed?

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63SplitWindow

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Gathering parts for this Hellcat swap for my Dart Sport and I'm wondering if I need front torque boxes. The car is back halved with a 4 link setup so I am not worried about that. I do have the sub frames tied already but I am wondering if I also need torque boxes on top of that.
Any thoughts about that?
 
Gathering parts for this Hellcat swap for my Dart Sport and I'm wondering if I need front torque boxes. The car is back halved with a 4 link setup so I am not worried about that. I do have the sub frames tied already but I am wondering if I also need torque boxes on top of that.
Any thoughts about that?
Absolutely!

Also, consider this.

What a difference it made to my 68 Barracuda!


67-75 A-Body Core Support Stiffener
 
If you going hellcat you should be doing all of it, unless you like cracks in the A pillars to roof, first thin that cracks when you put power in an A body.
We have to engineer car in aus and with 600hp hemi i have to have chassis connectors and toque boxes at a minimum
 
Gathering parts for this Hellcat swap for my Dart Sport and I'm wondering if I need front torque boxes. The car is back halved with a 4 link setup so I am not worried about that. I do have the sub frames tied already but I am wondering if I also need torque boxes on top of that.
Any thoughts about that?
Sub frame connectors are only part of the equation. If you look at the structure you'll see the torque boxes simply complete a box that the rocker, cross member, frame rail and floor pan create. Adding them closes the box and we all know a closed box is more rigid then an open one.
 
What main difference did you notice with this? I have torque boxes and chassis connectors but thinking should i do this


It helps reduce rotational twist at the front of the car . I was informed of this by another member on here and, after completely disassembling my car during a rotisserie restoration , I noticed how flimsy the lower rad support was. The UTCT replacement parts make the vehicle much stiffer.

A great check for this is to jack up a front corner of your car and open a door. Good chance the door is now out of alignment and won't close properly. Then , after installing these pieces, try the same thing again. Your door will open and close perfectly.
 
It helps reduce rotational twist at the front of the car . I was informed of this by another member on here and, after completely disassembling my car during a rotisserie restoration , I noticed how flimsy the lower rad support was. The UTCT replacement parts make the vehicle much stiffer.

A great check for this is to jack up a front corner of your car and open a door. Good chance the door is now out of alignment and won't close properly. Then , after installing these pieces, try the same thing again. Your door will open and close perfectly.

Yeah, this exactly why you don't install sub frame connectors with the car off the wheels. These cars flexed when new, 55 year old cars flex a LOT more, which is the complete opposite of most of us old people. :)
 
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Yeah, this exactly why you don't install sub frame connectors with the car off the wheels. These care flexed when new, 55 year old cars flex a LOT more, which is the complete opposite of most of us old people. :)
hymmm, I jacked my car up on leveled jack stands , when installing subframe conn. and 6 point roll cage , ????and forward fire wall supports , when I got it back on the ground the doors worked perfectly , no diff. than before ....
 
hymmm, I jacked my car up on leveled jack stands , when installing subframe conn. and 6 point roll cage , ????and forward fire wall supports , when I got it back on the ground the doors worked perfectly , no diff. than before ....
Glad it worked for you, not all cars are that rigid from the get go. Out of curiosity, were the jack stands under the suspension or on the structure?
 
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as far forward and rearward as possible on the frame ....

Well there ya go, you took into account the weight distribution. Most people, if you tell them to put a car on jack stands, aren't doing it that way. The way you did it, the right way for what you were doing, kept the cars natural "sag" in tact. I'm guessing you've replaced a few quarter panels in your day. :)
 
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hymmm, I jacked my car up on leveled jack stands , when installing subframe conn. and 6 point roll cage , ????and forward fire wall supports , when I got it back on the ground the doors worked perfectly , no diff. than before ....
May have worked but you meant to have weight on the wheels when welding in chassis connectors as cars flex when on hoists etc etc. One of my cars u visibly see the door gap change
 
Well there ya go, you took into account the weight distribution. Most people, if you tell them to put a car on jack stands, aren't doing it that way. The way you did it, the right way for what you were doing, kept the cars natural "sag" in tact. I'm guessing you've replaced a few quarter panels in your day. :)
car didn't sag, jackstands were leveled , so car was setting level...
 
May have worked but you meant to have weight on the wheels when welding in chassis connectors as cars flex when on hoists etc etc. One of my cars u visibly see the door gap change
were no wheels on it , hadn't even bought them at the time ...
 
May have worked but you meant to have weight on the wheels when welding in chassis connectors as cars flex when on hoists etc etc. One of my cars u visibly see the door gap change
As long as the car was supported at the end it's the same as having it on wheels etc. typically of a car is going to save it's because it's supported closer to the center like on a lift.
 
car didn't sag, jackstands were leveled , so car was setting level...
Being from the north it's been my experience cars will more likely sag than not due to corrosion etc. so we're very careful to support a car like your talking about or have it on the wheels so it's sitting in its natural state.
 
Being from the north it's been my experience cars will more likely sag than not due to corrosion etc. so we're very careful to support a car like your talking about or have it on the wheels so it's sitting in its natural state.
I wanted it square and stiff...
 

Yeah, this exactly why you don't install sub frame connectors with the car off the wheels. These cars flexed when new, 55 year old cars flex a LOT more, which is the complete opposite of most of us old people. :)
Exactly! I did mine with the suspension on floor jacks and made sure the car was close to level. I checked this at the rocker panel.
 
I welded subframe connectors on mine with eng/trans/kframe removed. I braced the car so doors opened closed and body gaps all looked good. Once car was together I had to adjust one door like 1/16 of an inch. But many ppl will insist car must be on suspension fully assembled no other way it can be done rigid opinions.
 
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