Sorry! Yeah, like I said, it can get pretty complicated. And I'm one of those guys with an engineering degree that has participated in chassis design for a few projects, so I get carried away sometimes.
I don't think arguing about what's "best" really solves anything unless someone is going to do an FEA. Or do the same physical testing on several different chassis using different reinforcement methods. And since the real physical testing needed is usually destructive, you'd total the chassis' used. Because until that's done everyone is really just guessing, engineers included. That's why modern car chassis' go through FEA and then destructive testing, because the actual results aren't always what was expected, even after a lengthy design process.
I think people should definitely invest in some chassis stiffening with these cars. But, do whatever they can that's available to them because the skill level needed varies quite a bit. I've done both types now, and the tubular subframe connectors are much easier to install, especially if you don't go through the floor. The US Cartool subframe connecters are very nice, and when completed look almost stock because of the way they're installed. But it's like 5x as much welding, if not more, and it's difficult welding to do, especially if you don't have a lift or rotisserie. So not everyone can do that. The bolt-in MP connectors are no doubt the "weakest", but just about anyone can bolt them in themselves working in their garage, then drive to an exhaust shop and pay the guy to weld them in. And that's still better than nothing.
