Torque converter shield interference

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mitch340Duster

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'70 Duster 340 / 727. Initial startup in 2014 TC bolt (s) hitting shield between engine/trans. Tweaked it with screwdriver, problem solved. Had an engine failure since then. Installed repaired engine. No interference on initial startup, but the next time i ran it I got the same problem again. This time it was difficult to solve. In and out several times, grinded bolts, grinded areas of the shield that were hitting, etc. Ended up getting another shield that was in nice shape, same problem again. Was able to cut a small section from the top of the new shield and now the problem is fixed, so I'm just posting this to see if anyone has any ideas why this would happen. TC is a Hughes, new flex plate, correct bolts with no washers. Something that looks strange to me is the relationship between the shield and the bolts. The shield has a wide "groove". It looks to me like the bolts should ride within this groove to provide the clearance, yet the bolts are positioned just above the groove as indicated by the circle drawn on the shield.
This is the original shield that came with the car and is identical to the one I replaced it with. Could these be the wrong ones ? Like I said the issue is fixed for now but I'm curious to hear your thoughts and what's going on with this.
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Did you tap the bolt holes in the torque converter to make sure that they are free and clear???
 
Woke up car in avatar shot this June after 5 yrs storage and had the whole starter just about fall out a week later.
CRT rebuilt my transmission back in 2011 and I put it in, and guess the bolts weren't tight enough.
Did not lose the bolts.
But the shield began to rub after retightening. I bent it outward/forward with a screwdriver, "re-aligned" the starter, had a little rub noise still. But not after 2 days.
If you have a lot of play in the center main bearing,and the crank walks forward very much under load, this can be an problem.
I had a full 3/8" forward crank slam on blipping the throttle on that car's 383, and had a wierd low idle speed throb from worn mains (1979) I fixed it on a beautiful Sunday, rotating in all new upper mains with a helper to blip the starter.
 
So I'm wondering how much difference there is between a 904 and a 727 inspection cover. The different diameter torque converters and flex plates would explain the mismatch in bolt circles.
 
Thanks guys...there's some 904 shields on ebay now and they look the same to me. Thomas, I was wondering too about the crank moving. This is a brand new rebuild so I can't imagine how, but ya never know, and something like that going-on is a worry that I have. It's probaby just the next in the long line of weird and/or unexplainable bugs I've had trying to finish this car which you can hear all about by seeing my earlier posts. Thanks again.
 
The 727 is slightly bigger. The one with the bag on it is the 727 and the other is 904

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Thanx so much for your time. Looks like based on your pics that both of the ones I have are for 727's. Just another unexplainable issue with this car I-guess. I'll just hope that the problem doesn't reappear, and if-so I'll see you all again maybe. Thanks again to all for your time
 
You will after you pick up a rock or plastic bag into tor bellhousing
I know a lot of guys who say they don't use them but i have seen a sandwich baggie sucked up into the seal requiring removal of the trans for repair so I always use them too. Just a little insurance
 
Thanks guys...there's some 904 shields on ebay now and they look the same to me. Thomas, I was wondering too about the crank moving. This is a brand new rebuild so I can't imagine how, but ya never know, and something like that going-on is a worry that I have.

Was the crankshaft end play checked when rebuilt???
 
I know a lot of guys who say they don't use them but i have seen a sandwich baggie sucked up into the seal requiring removal of the trans for repair so I always use them too. Just a little insurance

And a trans is a PITA to remove for something that could have been prevented.
 
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