Torque to Yield intake bolts- replace?

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dartslantsix

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I'm fixing my intake on the magnum and I see that they recommend replacing the intake bolts. The Fel-pro bolts are fairly spendy. Can I go with regular bolts or just re-use?

The engineer side of me says I should replace with TTY but I'm wondering what people with experience say.

Thanks.
 
Hardware store,definitely. I went basic grade 5 on mine, works just fine.
 
Factory uses 2 1/4" 5/16 NF, with full threads. Its tough to find 2 1/4" so we use 2". Grade 5 is fine. $2.75 at home creepshow. If you get fancy and get stainless or chrome, use anti seize but other than that, its just a bolt.
 
I looked at the factory manual last night and it does not mention replacing the bolts. Fel-pro is the only place I've seen TTY mentioned. I'll just get the regular bolts. Thanks for the input.

Factory uses 2 1/4" 5/16 NF, with full threads. Its tough to find 2 1/4" so we use 2". Grade 5 is fine. $2.75 at home creepshow. If you get fancy and get stainless or chrome, use anti seize but other than that, its just a bolt.
 
If the bolts are internal to the engine, Ima thinking, new is best.
But if the bolts are external;
I'd have to say if the bolt takes the specified torque, what would be wrong with that. Set a couple up in a vise and see what happens.Use the correct torque spec sheet and for the correct application.Into aluminum is different than into cast-iron.
No vintage Mope I know of ever used those. That's a fairly modern creation.Maybe 20 or 25 years so far?

I have reused TTY bolts on my personal vehicles, using this test, with Zero failures.
 
I used stainless. The intake bolts take a very low torque value to snug up to spec.
 
I dont think they snap due to too much torque, more because they are always corroded and are not a shouldered bolt, threads on entire length, which pass through aluminum manifold into iron .Electrolysis eats them quickly. I would say that on an average, half of the magnums we get in have one bolt with head broken off.
 
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