Torqueflite taking too long to shift into 2nd gear

[RockinRobin]

727 torqueflite reverse manual valve body. Builder cranked up the pressure a little for me for firm shifts.
I have the shift light set to 6400rpm but my data log shows that the shift happens at 7200 rpm. It feels to me like it shifts right when I move the shifter, which I am banging on pretty hard (B&M Megashifter). Been like this ever since I switched to EFI that has datalogging (about 3 years ago). If it was slipping I think I would have material in the pan.
2nd to 3rd shift happens at same rpm as shift light. I want shift at 7000, so my workaround has been to lower the shift light to 6400 and basically guess at the 2nd to 3rd shift.
I do not want to spend money on a tach with multiple shift lights or spend $$$ on a different shifter. Is there a band adjustment or something else I can do?
Gen3 hemi approx 700 crank HP. Thanks!

 

[Bewy]

Changing the line pressure is going to change the engagement time of clutches, bands etc. That then changes the shift timing. Might have been better to not change the pressure....

 

[BrianT]

@VOETOM might be able to help?

 

[71Demon528]

727 torqueflite reverse manual valve body. Builder cranked up the pressure a little for me for firm shifts.
I have the shift light set to 6400rpm but my data log shows that the shift happens at 7200 rpm. It feels to me like it shifts right when I move the shifter, which I am banging on pretty hard (B&M Megashifter). Been like this ever since I switched to EFI that has datalogging (about 3 years ago). If it was slipping I think I would have material in the pan.
2nd to 3rd shift happens at same rpm as shift light. I want shift at 7000, so my workaround has been to lower the shift light to 6400 and basically guess at the 2nd to 3rd shift.
I do not want to spend money on a tach with multiple shift lights or spend $$$ on a different shifter. Is there a band adjustment or something else I can do?
Gen3 hemi approx 700 crank HP. Thanks!

Whose valve body and what line pressure are you running? Is the valve body low band apply? Also what is your front band adjustment at, along with second gear ratio lever? Is there any “flare up?” when you shift 1-2 or does it seem to happen firmly? Also, what gear ratio is the trans? Is it stock ratio or does it have a 2.74 low gear in it?

Do you leave with both hands on the steering wheel? Or one on the shifter ready to shift after you leave the starting line. Depending how fast the car wants to come out of 1st gear, could be where the increase in rpm is. So it could be a combination of things and there could be nothing wrong with your trans. In my own experience, I watch the tach and the shift light is there to remind me to shift if I am steering the car because it tried to go left or right off the launch.

 

[RockinRobin]

Whose valve body and what line pressure are you running? Is the valve body low band apply? Also what is your front band adjustment at, along with second gear ratio lever? Is there any “flare up?” when you shift 1-2 or does it seem to happen firmly? Also, what gear ratio is the trans? Is it stock ratio or does it have a 2.74 low gear in it?

Do you leave with both hands on the steering wheel? Or one on the shifter ready to shift after you leave the starting line. Depending how fast the car wants to come out of 1st gear, could be where the increase in rpm is. So it could be a combination of things and there could be nothing wrong with your trans. In my own experience, I watch the tach and the shift light is there to remind me to shift if I am steering the car because it tried to go left or right off the launch.

It is the valve body that was in the trans when I bought it, don't know brand or low band apply or how much pressure the builder increased it to. I suspect the 1st gear ratio is stock as I've never done a gear change other than have the big block planetaries installed when it was overhauled.
There is no flare up at either shift point.
I launch with both hands on the wheel and put hand on shifter as soon as the front end comes down. When I launched with hand on the shifter I would sometimes pull back on the shifter without realizing it at the launch, so I now leave with 2 hands on the wheel.
I don't watch the rpm on the tach for the 1st shift, I watch the track and see shift light in peripheral vision.
I agree I don't think there is anything wrong with the tranny was just wondering if something simple like band or pressure adjustment would make the shift faster. If not I may have to get a tach with 2 shift lights, which I was hoping to avoid since. I'm a cheapskate plus I just bought a new tach 2 years ago to replace the one that came with the car and is at least 20 years old.

 

[71Demon528]

It is the valve body that was in the trans when I bought it, don't know brand or low band apply or how much pressure the builder increased it to. I suspect the 1st gear ratio is stock as I've never done a gear change other than have the big block planetaries installed when it was overhauled.
There is no flare up at either shift point.
I launch with both hands on the wheel and put hand on shifter as soon as the front end comes down. When I launched with hand on the shifter I would sometimes pull back on the shifter without realizing it at the launch, so I now leave with 2 hands on the wheel.
I don't watch the rpm on the tach for the 1st shift, I watch the track and see shift light in peripheral vision.
I agree I don't think there is anything wrong with the tranny was just wondering if something simple like band or pressure adjustment would make the shift faster. If not I may have to get a tach with 2 shift lights, which I was hoping to avoid since. I'm a cheapskate plus I just bought a new tach 2 years ago to replace the one that came with the car and is at least 20 years old.

You could always try to adjust the front band, but without knowing the ratio of the lever, cant say what to adjust it to. But if shifts are crisp and firm, and don’t have flare up or real violent shifts from band overlap, and like you said no sign of anything in the pan, probably just need to find the sweet spot where to shift the car 1-2 to reach your desired RPM.

 

[RockinRobin]

You could always try to adjust the front band, but without knowing the ratio of the lever, cant say what to adjust it to. But if shifts are crisp and firm, and don’t have flare up or real violent shifts from band overlap, and like you said no sign of anything in the pan, probably just need to find the sweet spot where to shift the car 1-2 to reach your desired RPM.

Doing that now. That creates an issue of consistency for the 2nd to 3rd shift, since it shifts on time according to the datalog. It's been suggested that I call Rick at A&A and see what he thinks.

 

[71Demon528]

Doing that now. That creates an issue of consistency for the 2nd to 3rd shift, since it shifts on time according to the datalog. It's been suggested that I call Rick at A&A and see what he thinks.

Always worth a call to Rick. I’d talk with your trans builder and find out some of the info I asked prior to calling him.

 

[71Demon528]

You could always try to adjust the front band, but without knowing the ratio of the lever, cant say what to adjust it to. But if shifts are crisp and firm, and don’t have flare up or real violent shifts from band overlap, and like you said no sign of anything in the pan, probably just need to find the sweet spot where to shift the car 1-2 to reach your desired RPM.

I would also try to set up a go pro in the car so you can get more info. I’ve found that to be very helpful on not only what’s happening when going down the track with the car , but found things about my driving habits

An air shifter is also a great investment. I know my shift points are within 50rpm when reviewing the data from the grid.