Torsion Bar Installation

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Raupleminze

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Hey guys,

Is there a place to find a step by step or even a video on how to install torsion bars. I have a 1971 Demon that I have to install the entire front suspension, k member, and drive train.

Thanks in advance,
Brian
 
You could get a factory service manual. Free downloads here somewhere. Even if not for your exact model, most of that stuff is the same.
 
Hey Guys,

I was able to get the torsion bars installed on the 1971 Demon. It looked a little intimidating but was pretty straight forward. I only ran into one problem when we had to wire brush the inside of the sub frame receptacles because the were filled with sand and paint from the media blast and painting. I used anti seize on each end of the torsion bars (940 firm feels).







I also installed the upper A-arms and shocks.





I would have installed the MP Power Disc Brake Kit also but I ran into a problem. When I installed the spindle and tried to tighten the castle nut to the upper ball joint the shaft kept spinning. I noticed this because the zerk fitting kept spinning. So what is the trick to installing the spindle and keeping that upper ball joint shaft still while tightening the castle nut?
 
You need to keep pressure on the knuckle to ball joint taper lock so that the shaft doesn't spin. I ran into this reinstalling my steering to the K member. Supported it with a hydraulic floor jack so there was just enough pressure.
 
Tap it down in the hole usually does it, but C clamp to hold it in while you tighten would be a breeze.
The ball joint shaft is tapered, so getting it to jam where the nut will tighten is all you need to do.
 
I would have installed the MP Power Disc Brake Kit also but I ran into a problem. When I installed the spindle and tried to tighten the castle nut to the upper ball joint the shaft kept spinning. I noticed this because the zerk fitting kept spinning. So what is the trick to installing the spindle and keeping that upper ball joint shaft still while tightening the castle nut?

Use a Jack, under the Lower Control Arm to apply a little bit of force/"weight" to seat the upper ball joint into the spindle a little more to keep the shaft from spinning while you tighten the nut.

You may have to use a pry bar to apply a little downward pressure on the Upper Control Arm while doing this.
 
The stem and bore are Morse taper. Once they stick together it should come apart again easily. The copper welding tips used in spot welding car building robots are the same. Milling machine spindle/tool tapers are too. You can poke male into female by hand with minimal force, then a tool is needed to get apart again.
You don't want to spin the ball joint stem in the bore too much though. That cant help their fitment, especially since the female in question is cast iron.
 
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