tfie93
Well-Known Member
If im going from a slant 6 to a 318 do i need to swap out my torsion bars for something different?? My driver side bar is awful flimsy so it looks like a swap is going to be necessary anyway
Torsion Bars
- Thread starter tfie93
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If your slant had factory AC, then the existing torsion bars are probably the same diameter as the 2-barrel 318 factory bars that year. You can find charts here in a search. I recall 0.85"D for V-8 and slant/AC most years, but don't rely on that. Not sure what "flimsy" means. Does it mean you can't adjust the height higher on the driver's side? There is a bolt you crank. Is it fully extended?
However, most people prefer thicker bars today, even >1"D, which may be too rough a ride for many. Those are after-market ~$250/pr. I got 0.87"D bars for my V-8 at a swap meet for $10/pr and he had several pairs on the table to choose. Usually sell for ~$70/pr on ebay. With used ones, you risk that they are sagged. At least you don't have a C body like me. Try finding affordable T-bars for those.
However, most people prefer thicker bars today, even >1"D, which may be too rough a ride for many. Those are after-market ~$250/pr. I got 0.87"D bars for my V-8 at a swap meet for $10/pr and he had several pairs on the table to choose. Usually sell for ~$70/pr on ebay. With used ones, you risk that they are sagged. At least you don't have a C body like me. Try finding affordable T-bars for those.
FISHBREATH
Well-Known Member
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The general consensus has been to slightly increase the torsion bars from the factory size for the application. Remember, bar stiffness increases logarithmically, not linearly, so a slight increase, like around <0.10 inch, nicely increases handling while not increasing ride harshness too much.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
x2. a good bar to start with is the 1.0 inch diameter. 
As pointed out, if you had an AC /6 it may already have the small V8 bars.
But, they were horrible too, all of these cars were drastically undersprung from the factory. I have 1" Just Suspension bars in my Duster. They really aren't that stiff. I'll probably upgrade them at some point to 1.03's or 1.06's.
1" bars are a good choice for most folks though, they'll dramatically improve your handling without giving a harsh ride, just something a little more modern feeling. And you don't have to to all the upgrades at once, but it would be a good idea to upgrade the bars at some point.
But, they were horrible too, all of these cars were drastically undersprung from the factory. I have 1" Just Suspension bars in my Duster. They really aren't that stiff. I'll probably upgrade them at some point to 1.03's or 1.06's.
1" bars are a good choice for most folks though, they'll dramatically improve your handling without giving a harsh ride, just something a little more modern feeling. And you don't have to to all the upgrades at once, but it would be a good idea to upgrade the bars at some point.
I discovered that previous owner had replaced one torsion bar on my slant six rag top with a V8 bar. I wondered why the car felt stable turning in one direction, and a flopping mess turning in the other direction. Apparently drag racers perform this mismatch bar thing to improve taking off traction…
Measure the diameter of each of your bars at the same location; this is how I figured out my handling problem. I installed a set of new Firm Feel 0.940” bars in the rag top, and I’m very happy with them. Also I replaced the rear springs with six leaf units, added a font sway bar, and sub frame connectors; the car is tight & handles nicely now.
Measure the diameter of each of your bars at the same location; this is how I figured out my handling problem. I installed a set of new Firm Feel 0.940” bars in the rag top, and I’m very happy with them. Also I replaced the rear springs with six leaf units, added a font sway bar, and sub frame connectors; the car is tight & handles nicely now.
Still too small. .94" is a starting point if you like "soft" suspension. I won't put anything smaller than 1" bars on any of my A body's, even with a sway bar. The 1" JS bars I run on my Duster still leave a decent amount of body roll, and that's with sport/touring 225/60/15's. With a better compound and a decent sized tire it'd need more.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
wonder how the Just Suspension 1" bar compares to the PST 1"?
would you say Just Suspension 1" is firm but not harsh?
would you say Just Suspension 1" is firm but not harsh?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I think any brand bar is the same....pick one on sale. 1.0" bars are not harsh in any way...i have 1.0 in my 68 cuda, im looking for maybe the 1.03's next......
ir3333
Well-Known Member
I have stock .870 and if i go 1", the torsion bar will hit my exhaust on the DS.
...so a .920 is not a worthwhile change?
...so a .920 is not a worthwhile change?
Dusterfreak
Well-Known Member
Does TTI headers fit with 1" t-bars??
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Yes they do. I have TTI headers and 1.0" bars. They clear.
Dusterfreak
Well-Known Member
Ok, I was afraid that they wont clear... after all.. I paid about 1150$ for the headers.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
im still using my /6 bars after dropping in a 318 and they are working great.
Moepar
Well-Known Member
I went from a /6 to a 340 and ordered a set of 1.03 from PST, received them yesterday and installing them tonight. I don't know what's on the car but the front end is very springy and these are much bigger for sure so they should stiffen up the ride a whole bunch.
I have never installed torsion bars before, I know there is a left and right but does it matter what end goes to the front or rear?
I have never installed torsion bars before, I know there is a left and right but does it matter what end goes to the front or rear?
The end with the part # on it put to the rear of the car and the end with nothing on it into the control arm. I hope this makes sense. If not car or email me.
Thanks
James From
PST Marekting
1-800-247-2288
Ext 316
[email protected]
Thanks
James From
PST Marekting
1-800-247-2288
Ext 316
[email protected]
Moepar
Well-Known Member
great to hear! Can you post a picture of the stance? Possible a high resolution photo. I love seeing the results.
Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
1-800-247-2288
Ext 316
[email protected]
Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
1-800-247-2288
Ext 316
[email protected]
Torsion bar won’t hit header, header will be hitting bar as it is the non-stock part which moves as engine rocks on its mounts when under load.
The difference between 1” and .870” bar is half the diameter increase which in this case is 0.065”… In other words the side of the bar coming close to a header pipe would move only 0.065” closer with 1” bar to that pipe. 0.065” = 1/16” which ain’t a lot.
One possible solution would be to shim engine higher at one of its mounts, or change the shape of the offending pipe with a little tap-tap hammer action without damaging finish if possible. A third would be to install a chain tying block to frame on driver’s side limiting engine movement under hard acceleration. Without seeing where the interference occurs it is impossible to help much from here.
Moepar
Well-Known Member
Moepar
Well-Known Member
Been wanting to post these pics for awhile now but was having trouble with photobucket. I installed these PST 1.03 torsion bars last summer, I installed the PST sway bar and some KYB shocks. Just wanted to show a before and after pic of the car. Lowered the front almost 2" with a great ride.
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