"Total" rebuild??

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superdart

superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
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My Dart is now officially on the street. (you have no idea how happy I am).

But, it has become VERY clear the car is in desperate need of a front suspension rebuild. I have already done the rear (less swaybar).

Just how far should I take the rebuild? I am looking at a TRW rebuild kit from Mancini, new torsion bars (.89 or .92), Addco or Hellwig sway bar and boxing the LCAs. Also things like converting to manual steering and new longer wheels studs for my Draglites.

Basicly looking for hints and input about the parts. I've done alot of suspension work, but never adding an aftermarket swaybar or ANY time front mix and match on a Dart.

Also, should I bother with things like adjusting blocks for the torsion bars? I have never seen a set go bad, but since I'm in there should I do it, or is it a waste of money? Same with the LCA cam bolts..replace them? or is it just extra work?

I really only want to do this ONCE, so I'm leaning toward spending the few extra bucks and time...but SHOULD I. (I'm known for overkilling things.)
 
oh yeah..it's a 1975 Dart Sport, orignally a 318, now a 360. ORIGINAL suspension and NO sway bar (leans in the turns like battleship at full steam).
 
I have a 74' Duster that behaved the way you describe before putting in an Addco 1-1/8" front bar. It seems like a different car now. Nice and tight in the turns, no body roll. I have a 7/8" bar ready to install in the rear soon as I get time. I expect the handling to be very neutral after that - flat cornering with all four tires breaking loose predictably at about the same time...
 
Probably depends on whether or not you're expecting it, and either way, whether or not you know how to handle it...
 
I am getting ready to do a front rebuild next week so I can let you know. I have a 73 dart sport with a 318 and am going from old stock loose balljoints to poly from energy suspension, mancini racing bars, and new ball joints and TRE's. in the rear I am running mancini racing leafs. the only thing I don't have is the sway bars and if this dosent do what I want I am going to that.

oh, I also already have the subframe connectors so this will just about complete the suspension part of my build.
 
You have a good plan, definatly get a sway bar, makes a huge difference. What are your overall intentions, street or slalom, I would stick with the .89's torsion bars for street, also rubber susspension components for street. Thats what I am using with a 360 under the hood and an inch and an eigth sway bar on the front. I also currently have 245/60 15's on the front and 255/60 15's on the rear, corners like it on rails, so much so it affects the carb, thinking fuel injection and/or supercharger, we'll see. Here are a few pics of her I just took.
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man, seeing those pictures makes me miss my first car...it was a 74 scamp.

I am setting my car up for street/strip. I can't remember what size torsion bars I got because I ordered them so long ago but I want to say it was .90 or .92, the end of the bars say 450 and 451. I am a big fan of a stiff suspension on a car. performance is my first concern.

my car has the 14" ralleys on it so I am still running the stock size tire. that and my rear currently has a 2.73 gear so I didn't want to make that any worse. when I step up to the 3.55 gear and a different tranny I will re-address the tire issue.

I could tell a difference in the cars handling when I swapped out the rear springs, so I am realy looking forward to getting the front done.
 
Wow, old post revisited here.

I've had the suspension on for about 3 months now...LOL.
Everything here except the swaybar. I wanted to wait until everything settled in before installing it...maybe this weekend. I also converted to manual steering, installed ceramic headers, and some new gauges while I have things torn apart.
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so did the body roll get better with just the rebuild?

I like the dash, I have been trying to think of a way to do mine different and that is a great idea.
 
did you tighten the upper/lower control arm and stru rod bushing nuts in the air? if so, raise the car, loosen the bushing nuts, then put it on the ground, jounce the car a few times, then tighten them all backup. the reason for this is to establish zero preload on the bushings with the weight on it. if you tighten them in the air, once the wheels get the weight of the car again, they will be preloaded and shorten there life.

BTW, you don't need to let it settle to add the swaybar.

I agree with kraby about the .89 bars. especially if the roads are rougher where you live .
 
If that's an original suspension, I highly suggest replacing the lower control arm bushing. It's an area that's overlooked just cause it's a "big" job and you'll need special tools, to get it done. I bought a kit from PST, but havent installed it yet. I got the tools from Mancini Racing. I also have the LCA stiffener plates, yet to be installed.
 
I replaced ALL of the bushings. I didn't preload the ball joints though..didn't know it made a difference. I'll take care of that though, thanks:thumbup:

Yes, just the basic rebuild did wonders. The front end was so bad before that it just wallowed in the turns and bottomed out easily. Almost no support.

Even without the swaybar it has a much firmer ride, the steering is great compared to the old power system, and it turns pretty well. There is still a noticeable amount of body roll in sharp turns, but I expect that until the sway bar is taken care of.

The dash plate is just something I came up with to be different, and allow for a modern 1 DIN radio. I still have the rest of the dash to do, but this was just "one of those things". I would really like to cut the dash up and weld that plate right into the dash to make it look stock. But since I don't have a welder that would be a bit tough. Maybe down the road.....

I have the original templates I used to make the switchplate and dash piece, I just haven't gotten around to making drafts of them. I guess I could for anyone that might want the plans.
 
I got mine done yesterday, it still needs to go to the shop to get an alignment but it is a big improvement! the body roll went way down. but I did go to the beefed up torsion bars. I am going to drive mine for a while and decide later on the sway bar.
 
Eric_S68 said:
If that's an original suspension, I highly suggest replacing the lower control arm bushing. It's an area that's overlooked just cause it's a "big" job and you'll need special tools, to get it done. I bought a kit from PST, but havent installed it yet. I got the tools from Mancini Racing. I also have the LCA stiffener plates, yet to be installed.
Click to expand...

All of the bushings including the lower control arm bushings can be replaced without special tools. I did mine with a vice and an assortment of sockets and a chisel.

On the lower control arm I drove the pivot bolt out, the shell stayed on the bolt. I used the chisel to split the sheel to get it off. I used a hack saw blade to cut the rubber loose in the outer shell and the chisel to split the shell. The new bushing was pressed in using sockets and a vice. Then the bolt was pressed in the same way.

BTW, I rebuilt the suspension on my car while it had a \6 and used .89 t-bars. I drove the car like this for a year without a sway-bar because I was going to swap in a v8 using a 73 spool mount k-member. I swapped in the v8 and drove it for a few months without the sway bar then added an ADDCO bar. The bar made a big difference!!!!!!!!
 
We got crafty and used an offset head chisel tip on an air hammer..the steel sleeves came off in about 30 seconds. Worked great, but you have to be careful adn get the right angle on the tip.
 
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