Tranny won't mount

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Backally

Backally

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Put a Centerforce dual friction in my 1970 Duster, 340 with the 833. When I try to slide the transmission on, it stops about 1/4 inch from the bellhousing. Worked on this for about 6 hours today. :banghead: Got some 3 1/2" bolts to put in the transmission bolt holes to help with alignment, didn't help. Splines are engaged, it slides back and forth on the alignment bolts easy but seems to hit something hard to prevent it going that last 1/4 inch. Did not replace the pilot bushing, but it looks like new and is not dinged up at all. Had a friend stop over and look at it and he thought everything looked correct and it should just slide right on also. What am I missing here?
 
Your transmission may not be drilled all the way through for an manual. You may have to trim the input shaft.
 
This is the same transmission that came out of it, just changing the clutch. Bell housing didn't come off either. Would It still need to be trimmed? If I measure from transmission housing to end of shaft, then from bell housing to bottom of crankshaft hole it should tell me if I have enough distance, correct?
 
You need to have someone step on clutch and wiggle tranny and see if it will slide in. I would say if it came out should fit back in just need a little convincing.
 
Doesn't appear to be. May pull the clutch off to double check but if I recall the flywheel side is flat with the disk. Looked at old disk to verify and that on is flat on fw side.
 
Part #DF269739

If I have some one step on the clutch in order to get the tranny in, would the clutch fully engage? Wouldn't there be some pressure on the clutch at all times then?
 
If you step on the clutch pedal it will release the disc so it can move around and line the tranny with the bushing it should slide in. What did you use for pilot to line it up? If you did not pull bellhousing did you tighten the clutch evenly?
 
I used a plastic alignment tool from Summit. Was around $6 and since I didn't have anything else it sounded good. I tightened the clutch by going up about #10-15 of torque per round. Don't remember the final number, but Took 3 times around to get the bolts torqued.
 
even with the plastic guide there is enough wiggle that if you do not hold it centred while you evenly and uniformly tighten the pressure plate bolts, the disc can be off centre enough so the input shaft hangs up in the pilot bushing. I have had to have someone depress the pedal to disengage the clutch disc so that it can move to where it wants and needs to be for full engagement of the transmission input.
 
times 2. If it is not an old shaft from junk-yard, no go. plasic, aftermarket, no go. Friend stepping on the clutch works. disks holding it off.
 
Thanks again FABO. No one to push the clutch, but used a little shadetree mechanic and hooked a ratchet strap between the clutch fork and the rear frame. Tightened it a little and the transmission just about slid itself in. Thanks to all who replied. Now I can watch the 40-50 mph winds blow the 12+ inches of snow coming down and get the snowmobiles out!!!
 
I glad you got it in just need a little convincing. Be careful on those snowmobiles they will hurt you.
 
Backally said:
Thanks again FABO. No one to push the clutch, but used a little shadetree mechanic and hooked a ratchet strap between the clutch fork and the rear frame. Tightened it a little and the transmission just about slid itself in. Thanks to all who replied. Now I can watch the 40-50 mph winds blow the 12+ inches of snow coming down and get the snowmobiles out!!!
Click to expand...
Wish I could ride. lol
 
^^ that's what she said. Lol sorry. I couldn't help myself

Hope to see this thread stay open! There's a lot of help here for clutch replacement. I have my first mopar 4 speed. It's a granny 4 speed, but non the less this thread will help a lot come time for trans install
 
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