Trans shield

[Coffee&Cars]

Your blanket will not fit my application. Now also you are correct, the drum exploding is the result of something else. Most I have seen are stock U joints breakage in the burnout box, the trans in first gear. Now when you do a burnout you start in second. Now I have never seen a billet drum explode after a breakage. Not saying it can't happen, but very unlikely.

Ken with all do respect I would like to know why you say it would not fit. Especially when you have never seen one? I'd really like to know. Because if I was going to bring this back to market I would address this issue.
Also I don't know if you have ever tried to bring something to the racing market place but it is very very expensive. I had intended to have it tested to qualify as a flex plat shield also, but ran short on funds. It's not cheap to do this. You not only have to pay for the test $800 plus you also have to provide a complete transmission, torque converter and a flex plate which they are going to destroy for the test. You also have to pay for shipping to get all those parts to them. I have know doubt I can pass this test. Also I have heard of the blow proof 727 case that was being developed. At the time the cost projection was "over" $2000.

 

[RamCharger TEXAS]

The CSI shield is pretty popular but I can honestly say, I wish I had a blanket over that shield. A&A makes a blanket that fits on our 727s and is a good fit. Not a universal one. The A&A is cheaper than a shield I believe and will give you more room when installing the trans in the car. The only reason I haven’t ditched my shield and went to a blanket is because my trans tunnel is removable so it makes installation easy. If you do decide to go with a CSI shield make sure you get bolts with 3/8 12 point head because a standard bolt with 7/16 6 point will cause you lots of grief when you go to put a wrench or socket on the bolt and try to tighten it.

Again, I’d recommend an A&A blanket over a CSI shield.

I'm doing something similar to my Duster pertaining to the removable tabs tunnel do you have pics?

 

[71Demon540]

I'm doing something similar to my Duster pertaining to the removable tabs tunnel do you have pics?

View attachment 1716393222

I don’t have pics at the moment, but when I put my engine and trans in this weekend I’ll get some pics

 

[gregsdart]

CSI SHIELDS MAY never be available. I ordered one dec 2023 and Jegs finally relented and gave me my money back. CSI kept extending the delivery date then refused to cancel the order from Jegs

 

[Alfajim]

Do you still sell these blankets? My team members and myself would like to know because we constantly complain about our CSR shields.

On another note, A&A's aluminum and steel drums were tested to 32,000 rpm without failure. That means the engine RPM would have to reach over 14,000 RPM (14,000x 2.2=31,360rpm) before the drum should reach its limit. Not saying crazy things can't happen, you could have a bad drum, or weak steel/aluminum, which could cause it to fail at less RPM, but I would be willing to bet the risk of an aftermarket drum coming apart like a stock powdered iron drum are low. Especially if you are running a low band apply valve body and 6 bolt 16 element bolt in sprag. Again, not saying it "CAN'T" happen, but just seems like low risk in todays day and age.

I realize this is a older post but I had to put my 2cts worth here on the facts and myths of front drum issues. I have been building automatics for 60 yrs now of every stripe imaginable and dozens of torqueflites. I raced a 68 Hemi cuda for five years with a auto so I have a good hands on experience.
So for clarity here is the power flow of the trans whether full manual or auto.
In first gear "low or 1" the rear roller "sprag" holds the rear planet carrier and low reverse drum with the low reverse band also. The input power goes thru the forward clutch which drives the front ring gear and the front sun gear through the plant pinions counter clockwise in overdrive which in turn drives the connected rear sun gear counter clockwise and the rear planets clockwise as the rear carrier is locked so the rear ring turns the output shaft in reduction. The front drum and sun shell are turning counter clockwise at a high speed through the front planet only, not the rear planetary. As the front planet carrier is also attached to the output shaft it is turning clockwise at the same speed as the rear ring gear and output shaft reducing the overdrive ratio and adding to the reduction of the rear planetary. The rear reduction is only 2.20 same as in reverse as the ration is the diff of the sun and ring the planets are just idlers same as in reverse. The second ratio is more complicated as it's ratio is the diff between sun and ring added and then divded by the sun because the carrier is the output.
So the rpm of the sun shell and front drum is solely determined by the overdrive of the front planetary corrected by the carrier turning slowly with the output shaft. Hopes this helps reduce confusion.

 

[71Demon540]

I realize this is a older post but I had to put my 2cts worth here on the facts and myths of front drum issues. I have been building automatics for 60 yrs now of every stripe imaginable and dozens of torqueflites. I raced a 68 Hemi cuda for five years with a auto so I have a good hands on experience.
So for clarity here is the power flow of the trans whether full manual or auto.
In first gear "low or 1" the rear roller "sprag" holds the rear planet carrier and low reverse drum with the low reverse band also. The input power goes thru the forward clutch which drives the front ring gear and the front sun gear through the plant pinions counter clockwise in overdrive which in turn drives the connected rear sun gear counter clockwise and the rear planets clockwise as the rear carrier is locked so the rear ring turns the output shaft in reduction. The front drum and sun shell are turning counter clockwise at a high speed through the front planet only, not the rear planetary. As the front planet carrier is also attached to the output shaft it is turning clockwise at the same speed as the rear ring gear and output shaft reducing the overdrive ratio and adding to the reduction of the rear planetary. The rear reduction is only 2.20 same as in reverse as the ration is the diff of the sun and ring the planets are just idlers same as in reverse. The second ratio is more complicated as it's ratio is the diff between sun and ring added and then divded by the sun because the carrier is the output.
So the rpm of the sun shell and front drum is solely determined by the overdrive of the front planetary corrected by the carrier turning slowly with the output shaft. Hopes this helps reduce confusion.

Yes, great explanation. Thank you. Lots don't understand how the 727 functions, this should clarify that. Mainly for those who have been inside a 727 at least.