[Ah you're sorted out already, took me too long to write]
T5 in and out numerous times and still not there...
what i have learned.... Might be of use to someone....
you ask for part numbers gonna be hard to say unless you say which trans
If you want to use the standard Z bar set up you will have to use a standard bellhousing or a conversion bellhousing modeled after the standard bellhousing with the z bar stud mount holes in it.
standard bell
Most off the shelf adapters of bell housing to trans are aluminium, light weight easy to mill flat, they are 18-20mm thick to accommodate the offset in size between the input bearing retainer flange and the input bearing retainer register in the bellhousing. This may well push the transmission back further than expected with a bellhousing designed for mopar input shaft length and a transmission with what is usually a shorter input shaft length. basically the whole trans was designed for a bellhousing 6-7 inches deep and the mopar one is deeper than that and has a 3/4 inch adapter on the back.
if you intend to use a concentric slave hydraulic throw out bearing, the adapter needs to cater for the long anti rotation stud, which means it needs a specific half moon machined into its centering boss to allow 1 IBR bolt to be replaced with a long stud
further back may be good from a rear mount and stick position but when you gain in this area you can more or less guarantee that it will also push the speedo drive back into trouble, so that it is now pressed up against or into the torsion bar crossmember, or the remains of it.
You swap one problem for another.
steel adapters can be 6 mm or 1/4 inch thick that could be of more use
trouble is the input bearing retainer flange is only 6mm thick which means you can centre your adapter on the trans perfectly but there is nothing to centre your bellhousing on the adapter.
1/4 inch is deep just enough to accomodate the head of a counter sunk allen drive unbrako bolt.
2 options
1) get an adapter ring made up that is 12mm tall, bore your adapter plate the size of the IBR+the wall thickness of your adapter ring. Bore the bell to the size of the adapter ring. everything centred on the adapter ring
2) put the IBR onto the trans but space it forward with flat washers, just enough to make it stand proud of your flat plate adapter when bolted to trans But not so far that the contour in its rear side that centres it into the transmission is not engaged. centre bell,drill tap, and counter sunk unbrako bolt on the adapter. remove the lot from the trans and refit the IBR properly
problems with option 1 standard bell could potentially not have enough meat to accommodate the bore you need. you will cut into the clutch fork mounting pad bolt area and possibly breach the roof of the bellhousing at the top edge. more of a problem with low/squarish patten bells like a 3 speed slant 6 one
problems with option 2 its not very accurate and depending on trans the register for the IBR in the front of the trans and the lump on the back of the IBR around the shaft my not be deep enough to sit the IBR out far enough to make a good attempt at centering.
Adapter Method
mock up trans and bell on blocks behind motor with flywheel in position
put clutch plate on spline the right way round
move trans towards flywheel, so that the start of the taper-down from the spline to the spigot end of the input shaft aligns with the flat clutch face of the flywheel
push clutch up to flywheel and mark input shaft to show where it sits
pull trans out and check that when you put the clutch plate where you marked that its boss is engaged for full length with spline, all as near as damn it.
put it all back, in same position without clutch plate, check the engagement of the end of the input with either the in-crank bush or the area where the roller spigot would go
if the end is in the right place make your decision about input shaft support, Bush or roller.
now is the time to cut down the IBR tube if it is too long to fit your clutch plate. you need space between clutch boss and end of IBR tube so the clutch can disengage. it will drag if there is no space
the spigot end will be too small.
choice: make it standard mopar size of 0.75 inch with a shrink fit hard steel sleeve, take input shaft to machine shop and say "make it happen" or get a bush or roller spigot that fits the spigot end, and work out how to machine or custom fit to crank or converter register.
measure gap between bellhousing back and trans to work out how thick your adapter should be. less than 6mm? it needs to be 6mm+ for the bolts. More than 6mm ok.... don't go too far or just buy an ally adapter and work out any issues.
Then you need to check that the trans and the bellhousing do not try to share the same physical space for their bolts. if they do you need to re place problem bolt between adapter and bellhousing with 2 on a smaller diameter, distance out from centre line, into the back of the bellhousing
Clutch stuff
Need a plate that fits the spline that is the same size and quality as you mopar plate, you need just enough clutch, not some lock up loonacy that will smash up you new transmission.
Need an throwout bearing that fits the IBR tube size
Need a throw out bearing on a throw out bearing carrier of a correct height that fits between the clutch cover fingers and the base of the IBR tube, you need a pretty flat IBR for manual clutch not one with a pedestal for a hydraulic concentric cylinder.
and of course it needs to fit the clutch fork, so buy a mopar one for mopar fork or ford one for ford derived fork.
Fork will be just short of front of clutch fork window if you have this right. expect a fight to put on the fork boot (mopar)
OR
if it is a ford transmission and you have a ford style ball stud mount for the fork in the bell, (passenger side) and you have a ford style clutch fork, IBR tube passes through its middle. it sticks out the drivers side and you push it forward to disengage the clutch, and you have a ford style throwout bearing, and you have a Tremec transmission designed for a ford it may well have mounting tabs for a ford style push forward external hydraulic clutch slave. all the ford parts in a ford style bellhousing will work provided you have enough adjustment on your slave cylinder rod, to take up the slack in a bellhousing that may be longer than a ford style housing.
Speedo
the square centre cable in a chevy speedo cable fits a mopar screw ferrule speedo head and the top end thread is the same. the bottom end is a chevy bullet and massive threaded end
conversion of a electronic only trans to mechanical drive.
electronic speedo holes point directly at the output shaft
mechanical drive speedo holes point under or over the output shaft
chevy drive holes have a flat base at the far end
ford drive holes have a pofiled base at the other end dip in the middle.
you can't mix n match.
if it was an electronic speedo OEM Trans, the output shaft won't necessarily have the lump on it for the mechanical gear or it won't be in the right place for your mechanical drive tail housing. or it won't be drilled for the retainer clip. iti s hardened steel so drilling it is a shop job.
as is welding up and re boring a tail housing to convert to mechanical drive speedo use, if one doesn't exist and you really want mechanical drive its an expensive option if you need someone else to do the tig welding and machining.
if you need a hump for the gear in a new position, Aluminium tube honed to the exact diameter of your output shaft, and lathed down on the outside Diameter to fit your speedo gear bore
split it and clamp on with a split collar, loktite the allen bolts, then drilled for the retaining clip, That works.
This potentially only a problem on second hand OEM transmissions.
electronic to manual drive boxes $400+
manual to electronic conversions chevy and jeep and ford standard parts, mechanical drive 3 wire pulse generators were a thing for ABS Tachos and ECU for about 10 minutes in the the 1990s while the transmissions went through a crossover to electronic speedo set ups
Rear cross member mounts
Hurst holley, if you got it in the end of line sale, chop it up as necessary the tabs and cross bar are useful if you are not welding that odd shaped part it into a cut up car.
US car tool mount, looks useful, will have to wait until they build one for you.
SST mount not so sure you can buy them outside of the kit.
flat tube across the car bolted to you chassis connectors...works but looks rubbish
post 73 spool mount can be cut n shut to put the spool mount in a different place but the spool mount mounting to trans rear foot bolt spacing is wrong. re drill trans and stud it.
stick
ideally position level with bottom of wheel fore/aft.
ideally positioned about level with bottom of wheel up down
ideally positioned so that its far away position and its closest position do not hit dash seat steering wheel or passenger
this is like 8 to 10 inches away from wheel rim when in neutral. short stick = smaller movements
long stick like stirring soup. need stronger reaction/centering springs in the shifter base
truck sticks are long, truck sticks often have a nice bend, truck stick bases have stronger springs and a much shorter gate due to use with a long stick. truck stick set up when cut down makes for a quick shift setup when used in a car, big reduction in throw.
all tremec Knocking the stick forward from 2nd with no other input should land it directly in 3rd via the centering/reaction springs if it doesn't the stick is too long for the reaction/centreing set up in your shifter base or vice versa namely not enough spring for your big stick... or the springs are broken or badly adjusted
Space.
smallest tremec is the t5
the top edge/cover edge presses against the tunnel on the US drivers side in a auto tunnel car, the front of the trans has space. the shift rail on a T5 sits 1 inch above the output shaft absolutely level with the shifter box top edge meaning it would need to pass directly through the torsion bar crossmember in the top of the tunnel with the trans in the correct place and the shifter box level with the tunnel opening.
All single rail transmissions have this problem unless the rail is kinked down as per australian fitment of borg warner single rail 4 speeds. that used a linkage that hugged the output shaft tunnel of the housing i.e 1 inch lower
Or you use a transmission with a tail housing and stick position designed for a bench seat truck, A front shift.
all other tremec boxes are bigger/taller/wider
output/tail housing bushes can be replaced but i have been lead to believe the orginal was installed and aligned using a special jig. if it doesn't need replacing leave well alone
head is now empty and i need a lie down
Dave
