Trouble keeping bleeder hose connected

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Dart swinger 73

Dart swinger 73

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I've found that keeping the bleeding hose connected to the bleeder can be a pain in the butt. Not sure if it is on tight. Are those bubbles coming from the brake lines, or air is being sucked in at the bleeder. How about putting the wrench on or off and the hose falls off. I have found the perfect thing to use. Just about every car guy has 1 or 2 of these hanging around. The rubber is soft and makes a good seal around the bleeder. Check out picture #1 in this pic vacuum has been holding for 2 hrs. Your looking at a spark plug wire boot. Who would have thought. In pic#2 I cut the end of the tube, so no matter how the tube is pushed in it. It won't be plugged up.
Now I wish I could rotate the pic's 90* to the right. I don't know what happens or why it happens.
 

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I alway use grease. Never seize is too messy for me. I find that 3 hrs later its all over the bench my cloths.
 

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We bleed the old school way...


2 people, with one opening and closing the bleeder screw....
 
"Speed Bleeders" is what you need. No air can get sucked back in. Russell makes them. An awesome product.

Russell Speed Bleeders let you bleed the brake lines on just about any vehicle all by yourself. Just replace the old bleeder screws with the Speed Bleeders. The Speed Bleeders have an internal check valve that will pump excess air and fluid out for you. A special coating on the Speed Bleeders' threads keep it from admitting air into the system, and keeps expelled air and fluid out. When you're done, just tighten the screw and go on the the next brake cylinder.

5/16-24 thread p/n 639530, 3/8-24 thread p/n 639590
 
A jar with two 1/8" copper tubed epoxied into the lid works just as well for keeping air out. One tube extends to about 1/4" of the bottom of the jar. The other tube extends only about a 1/4" into the jar. Fill the jar with brake fluid (used is fine) until the end of the long tube is submerged. Use some clear tubing to connect that tube to the bleed nipple. Use some vacuum tubing to connect the short tube to engine manifold vacuum. Turn on engine, open bleed nipple.

IMG_0984.jpg


I've used grease to seal the bleed nipple threads in the past, but it's always bothered me to be putting petroleum product on brake parts since brake part rubber doesn't play well with petroleum products. This last go-round I tried dielectric grease with mixed results. The rear calipers worked well this way. The bleed nipples in the front calipers are so sloppy in the threads that I think teflon tape is called for. The brake fluid acted as a solvent on the dielectric grease.
 
You're missing the point with the Speed Bleeders. You don't have to worry about air getting in thru the threads. No grease or other sealant needed. You don't have to worry about the hose leaking or falling off. No need for a jar to submerge the hose either. It's not like they are real expensive or anything. Makes the job so much easier.
 
I think that you're missing the point in that it is the threads that are leaking when the bleeder is cracked open. Even if you put a hose on the Speed-Bleeders to contain the fluid and not make a mess, they'll still leak at the threads and make a mess.

I had the copper tube, peanut butter jar, and epoxy. Only needed to buy the vacuum tube. I've since found that I can buy clear polyurethane tubing from McMaster.com for much less than the vacuum tubing. I use 1/4" urethane tubing with short sections of 1/4" barrier type fuel hose on the end at the intake and at the bleed nipple. The fit of the barrier hose is good, but not tight enough to stay on w/o a hose clamp - which I use.
 
ntsqd said:
...Even if you put a hose on the Speed-Bleeders to contain the fluid and not make a mess, they'll still leak at the threads and make a mess...
QUOTE]

They did not leak on my '69 Dart and my '01 Mustang. They worked perfectly.
Click to expand...
 
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