Trouble starting

-
Boony405hp

Boony405hp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2007
Messages
239
Reaction score
10
Location
Brisbane, Australia
In the process of trying to fire up my 5.7 with 6spd man with a hotwire harness.

I have wired in the pushbutton to eliminate the issues with the igntion switch. So I have 12+V supplied to the pink wire from one of the ignition points, and also ran a wire from the ignition to a pushbutton and the yellow wire on the other side of this as told to.

I originally had no response at all until I realised the clutch safety ground wasn't connected, so I grounded that and now it has some response but doesn't fire. It almost sounds like it's cutting in and out, I hear the starter motor do a quick tap and the throttle body makes a little sound but it's almost like the power is cutting in and out.

If you hold the start button in, it makes a sound like TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP like the starter motor pinion is extending then losing power, extending then losing power. I have a video which I will try and reduce in size to upload.

Any tips or help would be great. I just want to hear it pur!
 
Yep..my thoughts...bad battery earth or flat battery? That 'tapping' sounds like the starter solenoid....
 
Yeah turns out it was a suspect battery, new battery now in and it cranks well but still not firing. I can smell fuel and feel it in the line, all connectors on but still won't awaken :banghead:
 
Go back to the wiring diagram and instructions - make sure your starter button is wired ip correctly. Maybe needs a ground?
 
[ame]http://youtu.be/A0AkJlZ-FLU[/ame]

Here is what's happening, if I leave the button pushed in it will just continue to crank like that . How would I go about checking spark, is it a similar process to an old spark lead system and holding it near the body while cranking ?

I have wired up the start button as instructed by hotwireauto, pink wire has 12v supply off the ignition and then a separate wire comes off the ignition run position which is a keyed 12v, this wire runs to one side of the starter button and then the yellow wire from the harness comes off the other side of this switch. I have wired the clutch safety ground straight to a clean bare metal part of the body as I have no clutch pedal switch.

I have a 75mm2 flex welding wire from neg post to boot floor, another of the same size from the block to chassis, then multiple grounds off the engine to body and chassis, the engine ground for the harness is on the bell housing as specified in the instructions. All grounds are to good clean metal surfaces.

I am a bit dubious possibly on the crank angle sensor as the body was bolted to the block with the 10mm bolt and the inner guts were a bit loose and I pushed it back in a flush but no change. I noticed the inners of it were a little circuit board covered in silicon. Not sure if this is normal or not, but I think I need to start with Finding out if i have spark. Any suggestions or tips are welcomed. Thanks guys
 
I just removed a coil pack with a spark plug still connected and had my father crank the engine and you could see a faint spark in the dark if you looked closely so I'm happy to say it's got spark.
 
Depending on your description of faint and mine, a faint spark in the dark may not be good enough to ignite an air fuel charge.
 
The spark plug would have to be grounded when checking spark or , I usually run a ground test lead from the battery negative over to the spark plug or spark tester. You should have a nice blue spark .

You could have an issue with fuel delivery if spark and timing/compression is OK . I would add an external source into the engine , such as carb cleaner or a little fresh gas to see if tries to fire .
 
Boony405hp said:
I just removed a coil pack with a spark plug still connected and had my father crank the engine and you could see a faint spark in the dark if you looked closely so I'm happy to say it's got spark.
Click to expand...

There should not be any question on spark. It should be nice hot and bright. You might not see it in the sun, but certainly under normal shop lighting.


I'd say this is the area of your troubles, whether wiring or??
 
67Dart273 said:
There should not be any question on spark. It should be nice hot and bright. You might not see it in the sun, but certainly under normal shop lighting.


I'd say this is the area of your troubles, whether wiring or??
Click to expand...

I laid the coil pack close to the metal surface this time as opposed to sitting high in the air and there is without question great spark there. As you said 'bright and blue'. I even tried a few coil packs to prove it. I am getting fuel up to the rail, I pulled the connector off before and it sprayed fuel everywhere and I can hear the fuel pump prime as well. I can only think that perhaps the injectors aren't seated properly? 6.1 rail on a 5.7 but still the original 5.7 injectors. Have seen it done before but I'm slowly running out of ideas?

EDIT: Well I swapped the rail back to the 5.7 and no different, it appears as though the injectors looked wet on the 6.1 rail, but never the less I'm trying anything now :banghead:.
 
Is it possible the air intake is somehow restricted? Or maybe even a large vacuum leak?
 
magnumdart said:
Is it possible the air intake is somehow restricted? Or maybe even a large vacuum leak?
Click to expand...

Not that I am aware of, I have one line running from the back of the block to the brake booster, there is one off the top of the intake which usually runs to the evap purge solenoid. I have a line on this but it is plugged and sealed. Are there any other vaccum lines I am missing?
 
Boony405hp said:
I am getting fuel up to the rail, I pulled the connector off before and it sprayed fuel everywhere and I can hear the fuel pump prime as well. I can only think that perhaps the injectors aren't seated properly? 6.1 rail on a 5.7 but still the original 5.7 injectors.
Click to expand...

You need to check that the pcm is firing the injectors , use a noid light to check at the injector connector to make sure the pcm drivers are firing the injectors off and on and also makes sure you have power to the injectors.

A video explaining checking injector wiring:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAipVwCdwSQ"]Fuel Injector Noid Light Testing - YouTube[/ame]

If everything is good there , you may have bad injectors from setting too long.

If your injectors are getting proper signal and able to turn your noid light / injectors off and on. You can remove the fuel rail with injectors, injector wiring and fuel supply line attached and turn the engine over and look for a spray from the injectors to make sure they are working.
Just be sure to remove any chance of spark near the fuel, unplug the coils.
 
blown71duster said:
You need to check that the pcm is firing the injectors , use a noid light to check at the injector connector to make sure the pcm drivers are firing the injectors off and on and also makes sure you have power to the injectors.

A video explaining checking injector wiring:
Fuel Injector Noid Light Testing - YouTube

If everything is good there , you may have bad injectors from setting too long.

If your injectors are getting proper signal and able to turn your noid light / injectors off and on. You can remove the fuel rail with injectors, injector wiring and fuel supply line attached and turn the engine over and look for a spray from the injectors to make sure they are working.
Just be sure to remove any chance of spark near the fuel, unplug the coils.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, I bought a little kit which contains a bunch of bulbs and injector fittings. I tested all the fuel injectors and they were all getting signals sent to them. I then moved on to removing the fuel rails and placed a bottle on each injector and cranked it over....NOTHING. I pulled out all of the injectors and wanted to try check if they were in good working order, I found a video on youtube that showed a way on how to test them. All you need is a bit of tubing that can slide over the inlet side of the injector and then the other end over a small syringe. Suck some brake parts cleaner up in to the syringe and then clip a positive and negative on to the injector pins, or use a spare injector harness clip with some stripped wire off the ends if you have one. Then squeeze the fluid and keep pressure on the back of the injector and dab a positive on and off quickly to simulate the pulse they would normally receive. I had 5 of 8 injectors that were blocked and would not come good. A couple came good eventually. I happened to have some SRT8 ones laying around from when I bought the 6.1 fuel rail. I put them in and I heard the sweetest sound known to man! SUCCESS THE HEMI LIVES AGAIN.

Thanks a heap for all your advice and hints along the way guys! I was tearing my hair out but you guy's helped keep me sane and got me through it in the end. I need to order some new 5.7 Injectors as I think it's probably running a bit rich on the 6.1's. I now need to sort my hydraulic clutch out as it won't go in to gear. BUT that's another story. :cheers:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTlruNZpMZQ"]Valiant charger with 5.7 Hemi fires to life finally! - YouTube[/ame]
 
I use a fuel injector tester , It pulses the injectors and with a pressure gauge hooked up you can watch how much the gauge drops which is checking flow of each injector.
You can test all of them to make sure they are flowing the same . This will pick up problems with clogged injectors or if they are not working .

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvQHbZo-AKk"]OTC Injector Tester... or any solenoid device. - YouTube[/ame]
 
Glad to see you are making progress. If I was younger, more money, I'd love to have a 3G hemi.
 
I had the same issue with plugged injectors when I first tried to fire my 5.7 Hemi. I am glad to see you figured it out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top