Truck dies...IN EVERY GEAR!!

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Never saw year, make, model. Different direction........clogged cat/exhaust choking it out?
 
Read my signature. It'll tell you everything. and nope. I have open headers. Would have to shove a tennis ball in one end
 
What happens if you close the idle mixture screws all the way? While it's running of course. Did you have a backfire or pop through the carb right around the time this started happening? How old is your carb?
 
UOP said:
What happens if you close the idle mixture screws all the way? While it's running of course. Did you have a backfire or pop through the carb right around the time this started happening? How old is your carb?
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Pretty new. Nope, no carb explosions ever through this carb. The screws on the float bowls sides are all the way in right now.
 
DarTT said:
Pretty new. Nope, no carb explosions ever through this carb. The screws on the float bowls sides are all the way in right now.
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Ok, so the idle screws are all the way in right now, and it still runs, am I reading this correctly? It looks like you've got a bad power valve buddy, your engine should die from fuel starvation when the idle screws are bottomed out.
 
UOP said:
Ok, so the idle screws are all the way in right now, and it still runs, am I reading this correctly? It looks like you've got a bad power valve buddy, your engine should die from fuel starvation when the idle screws are bottomed out.
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thats kind of what i getting LOL ...exactly ^^^
 
UOP said:
Ok, so the idle screws are all the way in right now, and it still runs, am I reading this correctly? It looks like you've got a bad power valve buddy, your engine should die from fuel starvation when the idle screws are bottomed out.
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they've been all the way in this whole time. wow. :banghead:

73AbodEE said:
thats kind of what i getting LOL ...exactly ^^^
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This is absoluetly wonderful...

Atleast we know the problem now. It was running nice for a while for the past few weeks. It was never messed with or anything. Guess it was just bound to eventually go. :violent1:

How hard is it to rebuild a holley and how fast can it be done or should I just fork out $200 to get it rebuilt? This is my daily driver. I can't manage for it to be down for long
 
Just to make sure we're clear, these are the screws you've got turned all the way in, correct? The idle mixture screws. There should be a screw on both sides of the block.

While you're checking, also see if your carb has the blue gaskets like the one in the pic.

carbleft02.gif
 
UOP said:
If it is a bad power valve, it would be a very easy and inexpensive fix.
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Its not a blue gasket, I can tell you that, but it has one.

and yep those screws won't tighten anymore.

and how easy and inexpensive?
 
Well, first you'll need a power valve. Most Oreilly Auto parts stores carry power valves and gaskets in stock. You'll need both float bowl and metering block gaskets (buy the reuseable blue ones), and your carb probably came with either a 6.5 or 8.5 power valve. Get an 8.5 if you can, but to get you back on the road a 6.5 will do.

To swap it out you'll first need to disconnect the fuel line from the front float bowl. Then remove the bowl and metering block (the metering block may be stuck to the main body but it will pull off, the gasket is holding it). The power valve will be screwed into the block, you'll see it. Simply unscrew the the power valve, clean all the gasket material off, then blow everything out with carb cleaner to be sure. After that all you need to do is install the new power valve, new gaskets, and put it all back together. A trick for the gaskets is to spray them with wd-40 when installing them. That way they don't stick as much if you take the bowls off again.

Once you get it all together, set the idle screws to 1.5 turns out from bottomed out as a starting point. Start it up and go. Easy peasy, it'll cost you ~$25.


Oh, one more thing. Make sure the accelerator pump arm put back correctly when putting the float bowl back on. You can see it in the pic, and also pay attention to it before disassembling. You'll get it.
 
UOP said:
Well, first you'll need a power valve. Most Oreilly Auto parts stores carry power valves and gaskets in stock. You'll need both float bowl and metering block gaskets (buy the reuseable blue ones), and your carb probably came with either a 6.5 or 8.5 power valve. Get an 8.5 if you can, but to get you back on the road a 6.5 will do.

To swap it out you'll first need to disconnect the fuel line from the front float bowl. Then remove the bowl and metering block (the metering block may be stuck to the main body but it will pull off, the gasket is holding it). The power valve will be screwed into the block, you'll see it. Simply unscrew the the power valve, clean all the gasket material off, then blow everything out with carb cleaner to be sure. After that all you need to do is install the new power valve, new gaskets, and put it all back together. A trick for the gaskets is to spray them with wd-40 when installing them. That way they don't stick as much if you take the bowls off again.

Once you get it all together, set the idle screws to 1.5 turns out from bottomed out as a starting point. Start it up and go. Easy peasy, it'll cost you ~$25.


Oh, one more thing. Make sure the accelerator pump arm put back correctly when putting the float bowl back on.
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Can you hook me up with a link to the gaskets and power valve from O'reilly? Cause I don't wanna get the wrong ****:???:. why the 8.5?
 
This is the store I searched, hope it's your local store. According to their site everything is in stock.

4300 Buford Drive Ste 1a - Buford, GA
(770) 945-7203

Power Valve
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...er+valves_-1_1276&keyword=holley+power+valves

Float Gaskets
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...276&keyword=holley+gaskets&pt=N1043&ppt=C0261

Metering Block Gasket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...276&keyword=holley+gaskets&pt=N1044&ppt=C0261


Ok, closer to ~$35, but still not too bad.
 
The reason for the 8.5 power valve is because it will fit your engine better (stock cam right?). The 6.5 and 8.5 numbers refer to the vacuum reading the power valve will open. It all depends on the vacuum your engine produces at idle, in gear. A general rule of thumb is 1/2 the vacuum for your power valve, so if your engine makes 17" vacuum, then an 8.5 power valve would be recommended. You can even go higher, like a 10.5, but that's a story for another time, but for now don't worry about it. A 6.5 pv will get you back on the road.
 
UOP said:
This is the store I searched, hope it's your local store. According to their site everything is in stock.

4300 Buford Drive Ste 1a - Buford, GA
(770) 945-7203

Power Valve
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...er+valves_-1_1276&keyword=holley+power+valves

Float Gaskets
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...276&keyword=holley+gaskets&pt=N1043&ppt=C0261

Metering Block Gasket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...276&keyword=holley+gaskets&pt=N1044&ppt=C0261


Ok, closer to ~$35, but still not too bad.
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\

Thank you so much!!!:prayer:

UOP said:
The reason for the 8.5 power valve is because it will fit your engine better (stock cam right?). The 6.5 and 8.5 numbers refer to the vacuum reading the power valve will open. It all depends on the vacuum your engine produces at idle, in gear. A general rule of thumb is 1/2 the vacuum for your power valve, so if your engine makes 17" vacuum, then an 8.5 power valve would be recommended. You can even go higher, like a 10.5, but that's a story for another time, but for now don't worry about it. A 6.5 pv will get you back on the road.
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is the 8.5 more money? and yeah, stock cam
 
DarTT said:
yep, my store don't got it
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hey man, have you tried turning them out any? start with 1.5- 2 turns out equally on both sides. you are going to want to adjust those to get the highest idle. thats all you may have to do to get it running. thats if they will do anything. and to think i just sold 3 metering blocks and other pieces.
 
Hey I was thinking this morning. Before tearing your carb apart, try turning the idle screws out 1.5 turns and see what that does. That may fix it right there. It may be too lean instead of rich.
 
UOP said:
Hey I was thinking this morning. Before tearing your carb apart, try turning the idle screws out 1.5 turns and see what that does. That may fix it right there. It may be too lean instead of rich.
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worth a shot. The only way I have it not stalling right now is with the idle up more. like too high.

see the funny thing is this carb was on a Chevy 350 before I got it and that 350 ran pretty good. only thing I have touched is the idle speed screw. but of course. the carb came from the junkyard...and a Chevy.:toothy10:
 
Nope, was gonna **** with it this tuesday, but then I blew a headgasket and am tearing it apart.
 
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