trying to pull ponnies with little cash

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i agree on the 360.. already more hp even stock throw a cam n intake n carb n youll have some great ponies on the cheap.. plus you wont have to change the tranny

plus there are a lota things to upgrade a 360 later on for more serious hp thats what im doin in my duster mild 360 n upgrading the top end as i go

and think of this too a modified 318 still wont have as much torque as bone stock 360 4barrel
 
I know. Just don't keep looking though until you are already past the point of no return with some other engine solution. You never know what might turn up and when. If that weren't true, I wouldn't have more engines and drivetrain parts than cars!
 
i have a 360 but thats in my truck and i drive it and i no that thing is a beast cause it will break loose the 31 all terrains that are on it and it has a 2bbl on with smog crap hooked up i thought of cleaning up the 318 and throwing it in the truck cause i thought i had a blown head gasket again for water in the oil but it was just condensation
 
A guy local has a lowly 318 in his a body cuda(I believe) which only turns out over 700hp so it all depends on how much you want to spend.FYI the reason there are so many 360 engines around now is partially due to the fact that back in the 70-80's no body wanted them they were gas hogs with little power over the headered 318 stock forms.The 318 will turn more rpms with out breaking something due to the lighter parts.This is all from the old days with the old parts now the 360 has alot of bolt ons to make them run strong as do all the small blocks so its really either and if you have a 318 and have to buy a 360 your wasteing money for a cheap build.even $200 on a 360 can be put into the motor for an intake.I was all ready to stroke my 318 for my dart when I ran across a 340 with x heads pretty cheap so I bought them and money i spent was taken away from the build so for now I'm just putting flat top pistons in the 340 and looking to stroke it later.
 
Changing anything in the rotating assembly really should be followed up by balancing...even if it's a stock rebuild. Weight variations in each rod and piston assembly plus inconsistencies in the cranks counterweights kinda deem it necessary to any discriminating builder. Grams turn into many pounds of rotating force when spun to high rpms...those forces cause premature wear on soft parts like bearings, and transmit uneven forces into the structure of the block...all reducing longevity and reliability...it also saps horsepower.
 
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