Trying to remove instrument panel, need help (70 duster)

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Schneiderman

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I'm trying to remove the instrument panel in my 1970 duster to install the DemonIVR. I've gotten as far as removing the plastic steering column shroud and the metal steering column sheath, disconnecting a few of the electrical connections that I could reach, the speedo cable, the light and wiper knobs and removing the screws holding the inst panel in. It's still not wanting to come out and I don't want to force anything and end up breaking something. I can see that by the battery gauge there are still two wires attached, red and black, but they are way up there and so far I haven't been able to remove them and if I do I wonder if I can get them back on when I'm done. Do those need to come off? Do I need to go further on monkeying with the steering column? I'm just looking for advice on what else I need to do to get this instrument panel out before I break something.

While I'm at it, I'd love to hear any advice on installing the DemonIVR unit, seems like a simple task but then so did removing the instrument panel before I started...
 
you pretty much HAVE to take the full steering coulm out before tou can take it out

Thats not true. You loosen the bolts (or nuts?) under the column bracket and it'll drop the column and inch or two....which is all you need. The red and black wires connected to the Ammeter can be removed by just pulling that side out a little bit. That will give you enough room to slip a small wrench in there and take them off. Other than the electrical connections and the speedo cable (which is the toughest part for me), the thing will come right out. Just make sure you have all the screws out of the front of the panel. Nothing else holds it in and you'll have to manuever it carefully to get it around the column.
 
My 70 won't drop far enough with just taking off the column nuts; I have to loosen the bolts that hold the plate to the floor. Then, bingo.
 
JUst got my 71 to let go... Buddy it's a b&%$# I had to drop the plate bolts for the column.
 
Yeah, I've tried a few without dropping the plate, but always ended up doing it anyway. It's safe that way for your plastic bezel.......Gotta stand on your head a bit, but it's worth being kind to the parts.
 
Thats not true. You loosen the bolts (or nuts?) under the column bracket and it'll drop the column and inch or two....which is all you need. The red and black wires connected to the Ammeter can be removed by just pulling that side out a little bit. That will give you enough room to slip a small wrench in there and take them off. Other than the electrical connections and the speedo cable (which is the toughest part for me), the thing will come right out. Just make sure you have all the screws out of the front of the panel. Nothing else holds it in and you'll have to manuever it carefully to get it around the column.

Make sure that the ammeter connector nuts are tight when you reinstall them
 
A factory service manual would help. I have those pages for the rallye panel scanned and can email them. I also have complete ( my method ) instructions that would let you drive the car without the instrument panel if nessesary.
Here's a pic I show everyone. carefully removing the panel from the car is only part of it. Amazing how easy it is to break something...

DOH! factor.JPG
 
A factory service manual would help. I have those pages for the rallye panel scanned and can email them. I also have complete ( my method ) instructions that would let you drive the car without the instrument panel if nessesary.
Here's a pic I show everyone. carefully removing the panel from the car is only part of it. Amazing how easy it is to break something...

Ohh man. And if that happens, ur pretty much screwed for that light bulb?
 
Ohh man. And if that happens, ur pretty much screwed for that light bulb?

Yessir, The pcb extends beyond the instrument housing right there. To grab the panel with one hand and lift right there is a no-no.
These 40 + yr. old parts are fragile and booby-trapped to boot.
There are 8 screws through the potmetal housing to the plastic bezel.
If you only remove 7 around the illuminated area and not remove the one far left over at the heater controller support. Lift the housing to seperate and "POP", you just cracked the bezel. Lift in the wrong spot breaks the bezel and the circuit board all at the same time.
 
If you wanted to make a panel similar to the first pic and make it look like the second pic...
you would need about 700 dollars. A complete instruction guide includes pics detailing what to do and what not to do. Even properly packaging the bezel for shipping is in there.
The end product will be 10 times easier to service in the future too. Mainly because you have that large DIN opening to reach trough. Plus the climate controller stays in place while the panel is removed.

Not like this.jpg


like this.jpg
 
Yessir, The pcb extends beyond the instrument housing right there. To grab the panel with one hand and lift right there is a no-no.
These 40 + yr. old parts are fragile and booby-trapped to boot.
There are 8 screws through the potmetal housing to the plastic bezel.
If you only remove 7 around the illuminated area and not remove the one far left over at the heater controller support. Lift the housing to seperate and "POP", you just cracked the bezel. Lift in the wrong spot breaks the bezel and the circuit board all at the same time.

You should be able to fix that with a little time and patience. Maybe some JB weld or some other kind of glue to stick the broken piece back to the circuit board. Then if there is no continuity between the copper lines, either solder in between them or solder a small jumper wire over the broken part to get voltage to the bulb socket.

Does JB weld have continuity? Because if it doesn't then you can just JB around that entire broken piece and then solder jumpers to go over the JB. That should make that piece extra strong so it doesn't break when you press the socket into it or a hit a dip in the road. Looks like you already have it figured out so I don't know why I'm talking anymore..
 
Is it possible to access the bulbs from behind with the cluster in the dash still? Mine has at least one bulb out.
 
If I was to break the board like that one picture shows, I would probably do a shadetree fix with some REAL good super glue. What the heck, it's worth a try ain't it? Cause there is a super glue out there that is used for electronic manufactor. It holds resistors and capacitors. Something to think about. Good luck!
 
Is it possible to access the bulbs from behind with the cluster in the dash still? Mine has at least one bulb out.

I suppose if you are young and limber you could. I can't.
There are 8 bulbs in the rallye panel. It makes more sese to me to pull the panel, do a bit of maintanance while its out, and replace all the bulbs at once.
 
You can reach the ammeter wires by reaching up under the dash.Before you reach up in there, check with a flashlight for creatures. Mine was full of black widow spiders.
 
Is it possible to access the bulbs from behind with the cluster in the dash still? Mine has at least one bulb out.

Yes. Some are easier to get to than others. A bulb may be out because the socket is loose or broken as well as for failure of the bulb itself.

There are a total of 8 lights in the 72 and later instrument cluster. By now, the OEM sockets are pretty brittle. Care must be taken to avoid overtightening the socket. If you need to replace any, they are made for NAPA by Echlin, part number LS6501. They are also still in the Mopar system, but they are almost 2X the NAPA price.
 
Im having the same problem with my 70 duster i have the gauges out steering wheel is dropped and the two bolts that screw into the upper kick panel but it still seems like theres something holding it in im gonna get a whole new dash assembly but still don't wanna break is there any other bolts that i don't know about or is it just that tough ?
 
Im having the same problem with my 70 duster i have the gauges out steering wheel is dropped and the two bolts that screw into the upper kick panel but it still seems like theres something holding it in im gonna get a whole new dash assembly but still don't wanna break is there any other bolts that i don't know about or is it just that tough ?

you have revived a thread that's 4+ yrs old.
I did n't go back and read what the original problem was. I'll guess you are attempting to remove the entire dash 'house'. There are 5 bolts through the upper lip of the cowl. Their heads are hidden under the windshield gasket. With those removed the dash will rotate to face down and lift off the 2 slotted supports at kick panels.
 
hi schneiderman,

i've had my dash out of my 68 barracuda several times and i think it's the same basic assembly that's in your 70 duster. here's what i've learned:

1. if you are not an overweight old guy (like me), you can change bulbs and some other stuff without taking the dash out. i've done "non-dash removal" work on my cuda by getting a very bright trouble light and putting it on the floor of the pasenger side and then laying on the drivers floor face up using one of those "mirror on a stick" expandable mirror tools you can get at most parts stores - look all around the back of the dash and with a very bright light and one of those mirrors, you can get to pretty much everything on the back of the dash.

2. removing the dash. that makes everything easier. if the steering column will not drop down enough even after you've removed the two bolts holding the column to the dash, you could try taking off the three bolts on the column itself on the firewall under the hood. these columns bolt to the fire wall with three bolts and if you losen these, you should be able to drop the column down.

now, as to the dash. obviously, take out every screw that you can see on the front of the bezel. there will be screws on the bottom of the face and there should be a couple of screws that are on the top of the bezel that you have to bend over to see - they go vertically into the top of the dash. all these screws have to be completely removed - it will not work if they are just lose.

the cigarette lighter, windshield wiper and light switches all go thru this dash and have collar nuts on the back. i would suggest you remove all these switches. the cigarette lighter is easily removable by unscrewing the round assembly from the back of the heating element. for the wiper, pull the knob off, then take two small flat screw drivers and unscrew the recessed collar nut on the front of the switch. this nut is difficult to get off if you do not have the proper removal tool (you can buy them on ebay if you want). the light switch comes out by: feeling under the switch for a small "button" - push that button against the switch housing - the light knob should then pull out of the front of the dash. once the knob is removed, unscrew the collar nut like the wiper nut.

as a final point, you may also have to remove the radio as there are collar nuts on the volumn and tune controls and a third support bracket/screw on the back of the radio. if after removing all the noted items, the dash still seems "attached" at some point, craw under the dash and shine a light where the attach point seems to be and determine if there is another screw.

once all the attaching screws are out, your dash should be very lose. if it isn't there is still a screw somewhere. remember, this plastic is 45 years old and is very brittle. don't stress or pry much on this dash - it will break.

good luck
 
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