TTi Headers and 4 speed

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71blueduster

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I'm swapping a 4 speed into my Duster and am also looking at changing out my cheap ground scraping headers for a better fitting set. I'll have all the stock 4 speed stuff including the bellhousing and clutch linkage, ect. How do the TTi headers fit with a 4 speed? Anything I'll have to modify if I put them in?
 
You will likely be buzzing up the Z bar downleg to get it to clear. Never had a 4 speed A body with tti's that didn't require z bar mods.

Other than that, they fit fine.
 
I had to nearly bottom out my push rod adjustment at the z bar and then cut and extend the push rod coming off the pedal assembly.:angry7:

I was pretty pissed off because TTI was full of crap on a couple things.

1. They claimed that the headers could be installed with the engine in place...they can't so I had to re-lift the engine to get the headers in.

2. They claimed that the headers would install with no mods and that everything would clear....wrong!

Nice headers, but the clutch setup is screwed. The z bar/push rod set up is in a bind and is not even close to ideal.
Had I known these things I would not have paid $600+ for these headers.:angry7:

I bought mine almost 10 years ago and the website still says they will just bolt right in. Maybe it's just me, I'm a hardass, but that's total BS. They should be honest...like everyone should be honest....especially when they are selling a product. There is no reason to lie about this, they should come up with a fix or inform us that you would might wanna change to hyd throwout bearing setup.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-TTI340ABE/SBheaders.htm
 
I forgot, I had to trim an ear on the bellhousing, pass side IIRC.
 
I have been talking with the tech guys at TTI. They finally admittied that yes there is a clearance problem with there headers and the 4 speed set up on an a-body!! They say that they have resolved the issue by making there own torque shaft (Equalizer bar). I just bought mine a couple of weeks ago, and have not had a chance to put it in. Maybe I will have time to do it at the end of the month. Shy of getting into a fist fight with TTI two years ago at Mopars at the strip, I am glad to have them admit yes there was a problem. They say they started witha complete set up from Brewers, and found the the the shaft was in line with one of the tubes, so they moved the lower arm of the eaualizer inboard and lengthened it. !!!! I hope this works!! Check it out for yourself at TTI's website! Bottom of there web page to the left it says "Z-Bar (Modified) for a-body w/ standard transmission". Cost is $101.00, a little more than Brewers!!! Good luck!!!
 
Yea! After how many years that they have sold those headers and they now admit there is a problem with an Abody/4speed car??? They still don't mention under the list of attributes...BSing the customer = bad business practice.....FOCK EM!!!!!
 
with Doug's Headers. Really, I mean the header tubes have to go somewhere (if not below the steering arm)! Anyway I modified my stock Z bar, but my clutch "grab/engagement point" is way down near the floor. Is there a fix for this?

FWIW, I agree that TTI should just say it like it is. "some minor modifications needed". If they are advertising the modified Z bar, then why are won't they admit such a small issue?

Geeez! It's a great product, just need to make customers aware.

PK
 
I made a NEW Bellhousing bracket where the pivot ball bolt on so it would work, but these problems existed in conjunction with using a QUICKTIME BELLHOUSING I cut off the Bracket that came with the QUICKTIME KIT and made a new piece then welded it to the lopped off bracket. It needed to move about 5/8" toward the back of the car away from the engine. Otherwise I did not have enough clutch adjustment and the linkage would hit the header, and NO WAY would you be able to use a STANDARD SIZE STARTER, MINI IS ONLY WAY, Nothing else had to be modified........except the Z BAR bracket at the BELLHOUSING.
 
pgkeating said:
with Doug's Headers. Really, I mean the header tubes have to go somewhere (if not below the steering arm)! Anyway I modified my stock Z bar, but my clutch "grab/engagement point" is way down near the floor. Is there a fix for this?

FWIW, I agree that TTI should just say it like it is. "some minor modifications needed". If they are advertising the modified Z bar, then why are won't they admit such a small issue?

Geeez! It's a great product, just need to make customers aware.

PK
Click to expand...

Yes, the fix is to lengthen the pushrod that comes off the pedal assembly. That will give you the travel required.
I cut the pushrod in half and used a simple piece of pipe that fit over the pushrod and welded it. I don't remember how much I had to lengthen it, but I did not do anything to the brackets or z bar except to nearly bottom out the adjustment. It's not right, but it works. It is mos def in more of a bind that it should be. I may be selling my TTI headers in the future, when I switch to the turbo set-up. I guess I'll be in search of a new pedal pushrod at that time also....
 
I got my TTI headers from a guy that had them on his 340 4spd cuda, steering linked rubbed and the zbar interferance, he went with stock manifolds
 
Had to slightly bend and grind a little off the z-bar to clear the TTI tubes. Had it in and out numerous times til I got it right. Running the later spool mounts and a mini. No other problems after 3 years. Love em. Here is a pic of mine.

Clutch Rod.jpg
 
I moved from iron heads and 340 manifolds to edelbrock alum heads and the 340 manifolds DO NOT fit the heads. I got TTI and man...I still have nightmares about installing them. Car has late model K memeber, had to jack up car, Z bar barely works etc.
 
Try installing a set of TTI's on a 4 spd. A body with a Lakewood scatter shield!

I posted a thread in the EXHAUST forum on my TTI installation. While I didn't have to hack up my Z bar and do any welding, I did have to massage it with a torch. Three or nine times if I remember right.....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=65442

If you really want to spend some time reading, use the search function and type in TTI. You'll be reading for a while. 8)
 
I emailed TTI today because I need to install my z-bar as well. The TTI's are in without much issue. I have been dreading installing the z-bar due to all of the issues I have read about.

Here is the reply from TTI.
"Hi Steve,
Thank you for your e-mail. As of today I have ordered a new z-bar assembly from Brewers to set up on our mock-up engine in our A -body chassis. We will have a fix for this problem ASAP. I will let you know as soon as we have it solved.

Thank you,
Sincerely,
Sam Davis"
 
Spoke to Sam at TTI a couple of times yesterday. He is working on a solution for the Z-bar. He asked me to take a measurement on my car to compare to his.

I'm looking forward to this solution!
 
scuba0331 said:
Spoke to Sam at TTI a couple of times yesterday. He is working on a solution for the Z-bar. He asked me to take a measurement on my car to compare to his.

I'm looking forward to this solution!
Click to expand...



Isn't that what the modified Z-bar is for that they have on the TTI website? I got my headers in today so we'll see how it all fits together.
 
Modified Z-bar is for a big block. I have a small block.
 
Well I got the new Small Block TTI Z-Bar. It went in without and issue and clears everything.
 
71blueduster, how did the install go? What z-bar did you use?
 
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