Tune up Questions

[/6 Matt]

So I'm finally ready to work on my ignition system and I have some questions.

First what kind of spark plug do I use cause I can't remember. Something from a '96 Dodge V6 motor with the metal washers removed. Were they Intrepid plugs?

Second, what's a good set of wires to use?

Third, I want to use this coil: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G5220/ Will this work with my factory replacement ignition module? Sadly I know nothing of prmary resistances and whatnot, so I don't want to fry my module.

Third point five, given I can use the summit coil, what kind of plug gap can I get awqay with here?

Fourthly, this one's not ignition related, what can I do to fix a persistant leak on the economizer valve cover of a holley 1920 pea shooter?

Thanks in advance guys, I'll be watching.

 

[/6 Matt]

Oh yeah, sorry if some of that was illegible. I can't type with my left ring finger now because it got chewed by a router today at work and it's under wraps. ops:

 

[wjajr]

I use NGK UR5 plugs with Blaster 2 coil, and orange spark controller. Engine idles well, and will run skip free to over 6000 rpm. These plugs seam to perform better than other brands.

I run a 0.040” gap, if you have a good copper contact distributor cap (bluestreak), and long rotor button, a 0.040” gap will work well. If using an inferior aluminum cap and short rotor button, stick with 0.035”. A lot of the guys over on slantsix dot org like to eliminate the orange box, replacing it with a GM HEI unit: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28732&start=0

I replaced a crappy leaking set of plug wires this spring with 8mm Magnacore Electriosports 80 wires, and idle improved on my big cam slant 6. These wires are on the expensive side, but you are upgrading your ignition system where any one part can quickly become the weak link if not up graded with the other parts. With 60,000 volts from the listed coil, I would not use anything less than 8mm Magnacore wires. (Check Ebay for best price, Chevy straight six cylinder uses same wire set.)

That Summit coil has a ballast resistor on its side. Do you have a four lug factory ballast resistor, if so you will have to bypass all or a portion of it if incorporating Summit coil’s resistor. I’m not clear on this modification, perhaps the included instructions will advise, or ask 67dart273 on Electrical & Ignition board. I do know you will have to keep your factory ballast if not using Summit resistor, or by pass your factory ballast when using Summit resistor. It all comes down to the resistance of these different resistors. Like I said, post this risistor question on the electrical board.

 

[BillGrissom]

My understanding is that if you have an early slant with a removable aluminum tube around each spark plug, you remove the metal gasket on the spark plug. If you have a later slant head with the recess as part of the casting, leave the gasket on. I forgot the number (Champion R12K or such?), I just look it up in the book at auto parts. Some people get a different heat range (14K or such). Search posts by SlantSixDan. I would set the gap for whatever the 73 manual spec'ed for electronic ignition, but you could try more. If too wide, you will get misfire at high throttle, low rpm, like climbing a hill or entering a freeway.

I think the 1.5 ohm of your Summit coil indicates a special "electronic ignition coil", since the factory points coil has ~0.6 ohm resistance as I recall. Yours likely has an internal resistance that serves as a ballast resistor, but maybe just a "half ballast", requiring an external ballast to finish the job. I would bypass your factory ballast (coil side if a dual ballast) and use the ballast on the side of the coil, since they probably match. A wild guess is that the intent is to use the ballast on the side for normal driving and bypass it for racing. In the later case, your coil and module will eventually get hot.

I think silicone plug wires are best, and good for electronic ignition. I got a set w/ cap & rotor for my slant cheap (~$18, UEI I recall) via rockauto.

Maybe too late for you, but for others, I suggest the HEI module upgrade. You can forget ballasts and use a better E-core coil. I think the GM 8-pin module and coil is simplest and best.

 

[wjajr]

Sorry I never think of all the older stile heads that take a larger plug than my peanut head 1975 and up. So if you have the old stile, NKG RU5 won’t fit. However NKG has a plug that will fit once ant washers are removed: ZFR5N. For some reason these NKG plugs work real well with a slant six.

 

[dennday67]

I did the hei upgrade and I'm very pleased with it along with the ngk plugs gapped to .040. No more pesky ballast resistor or cheap Chinese replacement ecu. Slantsixdan is the man and knows his ****. I followed his instructions step by step and build it with junk yard parts for $25 and can get performance parts off the shelf if I feel I need to upgrade.

 

[/6 Matt]

Well thanks for the replies guys but unfortunately this project is on hold again as I'm gonna be laid off Friday. ale: