mopowers
Well-Known Member
You can get 1/2" ID shims to shim the distributor shaft from McMaster-Carr. You can also use a 1/2"ID locking collar to keep the intermediate shaft from riding up.
Tuning a Proform/Holley carb, what parts and tools?
- Thread starter KnuckleDuster
- Start date
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You can get 1/2" ID shims to shim the distributor shaft from McMaster-Carr. You can also use a 1/2"ID locking collar to keep the intermediate shaft from riding up.
Just for grins go to your spot and get it to mess up, shut it off and pull over,check your fuel bowl levels and report back.Before you do this adjust your choke till the plate is locked completely open in case it is slamming shut on your run that 410 is sucking in some air.....just want to rule out fuel delivery.
It maybe be in the ignition and I got distributors. ...
Worst case scenario it valve float or mis adjusted valves...I do not recall rhoads lifter requiring so much preload...your lifter my be pumping up and not closing the valve....
If when it messes up does it sound like a machine gun or rocks in a hub cap?
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Finally got a spotter to ride along, fuel pressure drops to ZERO after a few seconds at WOT!
New stock tank
3/8 sender and line to Carter M6902
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m6902
-6AN to QFT regulator and to carb
No return line at this time.
Why is this setup not working?
What is my best option to fix this?
New stock tank
3/8 sender and line to Carter M6902
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m6902
-6AN to QFT regulator and to carb
No return line at this time.
Why is this setup not working?
What is my best option to fix this?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Hmmmmm. How old is the pump? I rebuilt my pump myself but, it was hard to find the parts. Not all of those pumps are the same. I'll see if I can find the name of the company that made my kit. They are pretty sharp.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Here it is.
www.then-now-auto.com
Check these guys out. They had the stuff to rebuild my 1980's fuel pump. It was pretty easy. Talk to them.
Why the regulator BTW?
www.then-now-auto.com
Check these guys out. They had the stuff to rebuild my 1980's fuel pump. It was pretty easy. Talk to them.
Why the regulator BTW?
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
The pump is about ten years old, but only running on and off the last three years, maybe 2500mi.
I found it was putting out 8.5psi on my cheap Mr. Gasket guage, and actually this week I found my new auto parts store vac/FP guage is reading 1psi higher. I got the regulator because I was running an Edelbrock carb and thought maybe excessive pressure was the problem.
I dissasembled the pump last week and found no trash and the diaphragms seemed ok, so I blew carb cleaner through the three valves and reassembled. I didn't mess with the springs or arm.
I found it was putting out 8.5psi on my cheap Mr. Gasket guage, and actually this week I found my new auto parts store vac/FP guage is reading 1psi higher. I got the regulator because I was running an Edelbrock carb and thought maybe excessive pressure was the problem.
I dissasembled the pump last week and found no trash and the diaphragms seemed ok, so I blew carb cleaner through the three valves and reassembled. I didn't mess with the springs or arm.
Okay now you got some more diagnosing to do.
Inspect your 3/8 fuel line for kinks or damage.
Disconnect the line at the tank and fuel pump and blow thru it with compressed air to check for flow or any thrash in it.
If all is good,drop your tank and pull the sending unit out and check your pickup screen.I know you mention that your fuel gauge doesn't read right anyway, may good time to fix.
If your tank is full and you do not want to drop yet,you could drive it till it empty.
Is the sending unit new?
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Tank and sender are new. Replaced all rubber lines last month with stiffest fuel hose I could get. I'll check it all again and blow it out.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Found the micro drill bits at Hobbytown USA, sizes 50-72 for $14.99
They had a larger set for $29.99
There was a handy chart on the package, so I snapped a pic.
They had a larger set for $29.99
There was a handy chart on the package, so I snapped a pic.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Brand new Edelbrock/Carter pump....nice steady pressure until about 5 seconds at WOT where it drops to ZERO!
Pissing me off royally!
Ran it almost out of gas because I'm pulling the sending unit out ( and maybe the tank) to check it this weekend, though it does the same crap with a full tank of gas.
I have 3/8" hard line but was looking at the bends over the rear frame rail. Looks like it's necked down and a bit flat at the bends. I can't remember if the line is from Inline or Fine Lines, but has anybody had issues from either company with their 3/8" A-body lines?
Pissing me off royally!
Ran it almost out of gas because I'm pulling the sending unit out ( and maybe the tank) to check it this weekend, though it does the same crap with a full tank of gas.
I have 3/8" hard line but was looking at the bends over the rear frame rail. Looks like it's necked down and a bit flat at the bends. I can't remember if the line is from Inline or Fine Lines, but has anybody had issues from either company with their 3/8" A-body lines?
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Here are pics of the sender and fuel line.
The sender looks like new and is clean inside, I also tested the resistance ohms and it is right in spec even though my guage reads 1/2 with a full tank. I've also tested the float in hot water, no leaks.
The 3/8" line I pulled down off the framerail for pics and access. It has 3 90° bends which are pretty distorted, unlike my factory 5/16" lines which are fully round through the bends.
Even though this is 3/8" line, I am wondering if this is a restriction contributing to or causing my WOT issue?
I am contemplating cutting out these bends and running a short length of EFI hose over the framerail.
Could this be why my fuel presure drops, OR could it still be ingnition related? Is it possible the ignition is not firing causing the engine to stop pumping enough fuel with a mecanical pump?
Suspects are coil, voltage regulator (or ground) MSD 6AL, and alternator, correct?
How best to test each of these?
I stiil need to do a volume test, but if I am going to cut the line I want to do it before I put everything back together.
The sender looks like new and is clean inside, I also tested the resistance ohms and it is right in spec even though my guage reads 1/2 with a full tank. I've also tested the float in hot water, no leaks.
The 3/8" line I pulled down off the framerail for pics and access. It has 3 90° bends which are pretty distorted, unlike my factory 5/16" lines which are fully round through the bends.
Even though this is 3/8" line, I am wondering if this is a restriction contributing to or causing my WOT issue?
I am contemplating cutting out these bends and running a short length of EFI hose over the framerail.
Could this be why my fuel presure drops, OR could it still be ingnition related? Is it possible the ignition is not firing causing the engine to stop pumping enough fuel with a mecanical pump?
Suspects are coil, voltage regulator (or ground) MSD 6AL, and alternator, correct?
How best to test each of these?
I stiil need to do a volume test, but if I am going to cut the line I want to do it before I put everything back together.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Is your fuel tank vented correctly?
Just throwing stuff at the wall to see if something pops up.
Just throwing stuff at the wall to see if something pops up.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
I have made a run without the cap and it still did the same. I also checked the one tank vent and it's not obstructed.
I changed distributors last week and have a stock one with no shaft play in it now with the FBO plate.
I changed distributors last week and have a stock one with no shaft play in it now with the FBO plate.
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