turbo 360

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DODGESTRIKE

DODGESTRIKE

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well i saw anotherA and prine turbo darts posts and i wanna do something simillar :snakeman:

the motor i have is a 360
bored .060 keith black dish forged pistons
360 magnum rods arp bolts
360 magnum crankshaft
J casting heads with 2.02/1.60 valves
holley strip dominator intake manifold (single plane)

so what turbo, wastegate , bov, blow tru carburetor, camshaft you guys suggest?

i want the biggest amount of hp and torque i can get with the engine already have

Trans is a833
rear 8.75

thanks.
 
AnotherA has the basics very well covered. The basics are are the flipped exhaust manifolds or headers to route the exhaust to the turbo, the downpipe(s) to route the exhaust after the turbo, and the charge piping from the "cold" side of the turbo, into the inlet of the engine, whether through a carb or a throttle body.
This is a VERY simplified version.
Is this for the truck in you avatar.
If so, there is a turbo exhaust manifold that would make a huge difference.
I suggest a through SEARCH on www.theturboforums.com
They have all kinds of info on either buying or building a blow through carb.
 
hey thanks for answering

i saw the anotherA post and it seems very "basic" to me its not as complicated as i thought .

so figured out that if he is putting that turbo on a 318 maybe my engine is able to make more hp ,since i have low compression forged pistons and a single plane high rise manifold.

maybe a bigger turbo,thats why im asking:-D

and no its not for the truck on my avatar its for a 1970 duster:cheers:

so prine i read you are turbo experienced what do you think?
 
about the size of the turbo im not afraid of cutting anithing :snakeman:
 
For cheaps try the Cummins Take Offs that are usually around. I saw a few on Craigslist for $250-$300. Either that or have one spec'd for you. Is this for a truck (your sig?) Turbos on gas engines in trucks make for some hard wheeling.
 
moper said:
For cheaps try the Cummins Take Offs that are usually around. I saw a few on Craigslist for $250-$300. Either that or have one spec'd for you. Is this for a truck (your sig?) Turbos on gas engines in trucks make for some hard wheeling.
Click to expand...

its for a duster


and i was thinking maybe in a bigger turbo:-D
 
I would look around online. There are some killer deals on new units. I was looking for one for another project and I found one capable of 7-800hp on a 300" engine for $900 brand new with the T3(IIRC) inlet. So it was easy to find a flange to mate to it. You can also look for used import stuff but I dont like used aftermarket turbos unless i know the guy I'm buying it from.
 
moper said:
I would look around online. There are some killer deals on new units. I was looking for one for another project and I found one capable of 7-800hp on a 300" engine for $900 brand new with the T3(IIRC) inlet. So it was easy to find a flange to mate to it. You can also look for used import stuff but I dont like used aftermarket turbos unless i know the guy I'm buying it from.
Click to expand...

ok i will search but first i need to know what to search hahaha

a friend of mine is a mechanic only for 1/4 cars from 12s to 8s he told me to search a garret gt60, holset hx60 or even bigger

so based on that what wastegate, bov and carburetor you suggest?
 
i want the car to be streetable and run on 92octane ithink this is important info for choosing the turbo

i thing maybe a holset hx50 will be enough what do you guys think?
 
I was looking at the Turbonetics T60 series. You have a larger engine, but I'd be looking for an AR around 1 if you can do it to keep torque managable at lower ending speeds (for slightly over stock size tires...). The one I was looking at was the 10996: it has a .81AR and will make 600hp on a 300" engine. For a 360, longer stroke than I was looking at the 10998 might be better with a .96 AR it should be calmer but still make the 600hp on the 360.
 
A MP T70, with a .96 A/R will produce more than enough power...unless you are wanting to run mid-low 9's...then you need a 76mm or bigger...... .96 A/R will have the boost come on around 3000-4000 and hold steady through 8000.

For 92 octane you would need a CR of under 9.5:1, 2 heat range colder spark plugs...I personally like NGK Copper Plugs for boost app.'s.
A minimum of a single 44mm waste gate, and a CSU Blow-through 750, and a cam shaft with a low duration like 210-225 Duration at .050, as much lift as you have springs for, and as close to stock centerline you can get to reduce reversion....1/2 fuel line, and return, 300+ Liter Per Hour Fuel Pump, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator...and might as well get a MSD Mechanical Distributor, and which ever ignition (6AL, or 7AL) with boost timing retard you can afford....and you'll be set.

A single T70 is good for 70+ lbs. min which is good for 700-750hp....and at that level it won't take long to find weak links.
 
thanks moper and prine

i think the compression is lower than 9.5 with kb dish pistons but im not sure , these are the pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB742-060/?image=large

the heads are j casting no work just 2.02/1.60 milodon valves

if you need more info

a833 centerforce dual-friction clutch
chrysler 8.75 with 3.73 or maybe 4.10 gears
tires 26x8 front 28x12 on the back M/T sporstman s/r ( they are maybe too big but i like how it stands hahaha)

i want this to be a streetable car not dayli driver but something streetable
with a/c .power steering and power brakes :-D

master power t70 is there some other brand that has the same specs if i dont find one of those?
 
I HIGHLY recommend the Garrett GT4294R, in the .96 flavor, but the entry price is over $1200 because it is a fully floating Ball Bearing cartridge, and I was trying to give you the best turbo bang for your buck....the GT42R also has a much higher power threshold due to the ball bearings,....and is PROVEN to make over 900hp on 2.0L 4 cylinders.

I personally witnessed THIS 2.0L 4 cyl. go 9.40 @ 156 on 35 psi....and we were setting up a 50 psi tune to break into the 8's, but it started pushing coolant out a solid copper head gasket.

GT42R.jpg

GT42R-Hesspower-1.jpg

GT42R-Hesspower-2.jpg

GT42R-Hesspower-3.jpg

GT42R-Hesspower-4.jpg


Turbos are kinda my addiction:
DSC03823.jpg

KellyJan2007021.jpg
 
yeah =P~ im kind of developing that adiction too =P~

well that GT4294R sure sounds interesting , i saw you are using a holset hx50 how do you like it ?


maybe i ask too much questions but im new in this turbo thing and i wanna learn as much as i can , and see all the options i can

and for a goal i will be very very happy running mid-low 10s on a streetable car.

i wanna do this because its something different ( atleast here were i live you dont see much turbos ) here the way to fo if you want 10sec car is a stroker 408 and auto trans (only 4 or 5 mopars on this category , the other are chevys), so i want something diferent and have fun and learn something in the process.

thanks.
 
Prine, you're into it more than I... I've done a little boost work but not much.
What effect does going from 2.0L with very good heads to 5.0L with comparitively marginal heads in their best form have on boost and output of a T70, especially with power peaks way down in the rpm range? I'm thinking the T70 is just too large for a V8 that is living between idle and 5500 rather than a 4cylinder (exh cycles 180° apart and 4 less) at 4000 to 7000+?
 
To answer your question on the effect....very little.

All turbo's are nothing more than Air Compressors. A T70 would be plenty of turbo for a 5.2/5.9, and like I said before, will support upwards of 700hp.

The only reason people upgrade turbo's is:
You can only stuff so much air through a certain size hole...the more you air you want to stuff, the bigger hole you need.

A T70 signifies the " 70 " mm compressor inducer (the inducer is the leading edge of the compressor wheel)., the Exducer, is the exiting edge Aof the compressor wheel.

You can stuff quite a bit of air in one of those, and its a great start for a newbie to forced induction...because the initial cost is low, and they are available with many different exhaust sides. When you get your engine/trans/rear/chassis dialed in to the new horsepower that forced induction yields, you can spec out a turbo to put you at the specific power level you desire....for now, I recommend a MP T70 with .96 a/r for Dodgestrike.

A T70 @ 14 psi is fully capable of pushing a 360 equipped duster into the LOW, Low 11's @ 120 +....if you want more, you need a bigger inducer and more boost.
 
Prine said:
To answer your question on the effect....very little.

All turbo's are nothing more than Air Compressors. A T70 would be plenty of turbo for a 5.2/5.9, and like I said before, will support upwards of 700hp.

The only reason people upgrade turbo's is:
You can only stuff so much air through a certain size hole...the more you air you want to stuff, the bigger hole you need.

A T70 signifies the " 70 " mm compressor inducer (the inducer is the leading edge of the compressor wheel)., the Exducer, is the exiting edge Aof the compressor wheel.

You can stuff quite a bit of air in one of those, and its a great start for a newbie to forced induction...because the initial cost is low, and they are available with many different exhaust sides. When you get your engine/trans/rear/chassis dialed in to the new horsepower that forced induction yields, you can spec out a turbo to put you at the specific power level you desire....for now, I recommend a MP T70 with .96 a/r for Dodgestrike.

A T70 @ 14 psi is fully capable of pushing a 360 equipped duster into the LOW, Low 11's @ 120 +....if you want more, you need a bigger inducer and more boost.
Click to expand...

ok i get your point so a MP t70 it will be thanks for the advice i will start getting all the stuff and then i will post the progress

thanks to everyone.
 
LOL....yeah that one was HUGE...it weighed 88lbs and was a bear to move around.

Obviously its a Holset turbo, but the model was HT4C...and it had a 106mm compressor inducer.

Its OE (original equipment) on a Cummins 50 liter V16 Industrial/Commercial engine....and is one of the twins on that engine....while working there one of the "twins" had a piece of FOD go through the charge air system and ruined one of the turbo's, so to alleviate the chance that that one had any damage, they threw it away and I tore it down and did a wheel inspection on it....it was in good shape, so I kept it for awhile, then sold it on Ebay.

If you dig back through my posts, you can see that at one time I was considering using a Holset HX55 on my 70' Dart....it was similiarly sized to a MP T70...and that was the only reason I was considering using it....I am a low buck DIY'er from way back and stand by my motto of maximizing what you have at your disposal before buying all sorts of blingy name brand stuff, that costs twice as much.

Good luck dodgestrike....I will subscribe when you start your build thread.
 
Prine said:
A MP T70, with a .96 A/R will produce more than enough power...unless you are wanting to run mid-low 9's...then you need a 76mm or bigger...... .96 A/R will have the boost come on around 3000-4000 and hold steady through 8000.

For 92 octane you would need a CR of under 9.5:1, 2 heat range colder spark plugs...I personally like NGK Copper Plugs for boost app.'s.
A minimum of a single 44mm waste gate, and a CSU Blow-through 750, and a cam shaft with a low duration like 210-225 Duration at .050, as much lift as you have springs for, and as close to stock centerline you can get to reduce reversion....1/2 fuel line, and return, 300+ Liter Per Hour Fuel Pump, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator...and might as well get a MSD Mechanical Distributor, and which ever ignition (6AL, or 7AL) with boost timing retard you can afford....and you'll be set.

A single T70 is good for 70+ lbs. min which is good for 700-750hp....and at that level it won't take long to find weak links.
Click to expand...

Hang on, your talking about a t70 turbo,is good for 70 pounds?
To run 70 psi...Through a motor?

Did i misread that or?

It seems like you know your stuff,its just that ive never heard of
a motor efficiently running that,exept back in the f1 turbo days but
they werent exactly efficient,they were 1 lap qualifying wonders...

Just wouldnt mind an explanation...
 
so, it has been a change of plans im not building a 360 the rods were in bad shape and a friend of mine bought me the pistons so ... im bulding a 408 h beams forged everithing:snakeman:

the question is. it will be like 9.5 cr and 48 more ci so the t70 is still good ?
 
lbs/minute is quite a bit different than PSI (pounds per square inch)....so no, I do not mean it will push 70 psi.

The most boost I have ever seen go through an engine was 45 psi and the engine that consumed that didn't last but a few pulls before the headgasket yielded....it was a Mitsubishi 2.0L cast iron 4 cyl. block, aluminum head with steel o-rings, 4 ARP head studs per cyl., copper head gasket...and couldn't stand that power level.

I think where my friend Wes messed up with that engine was he was running 91 octane/C16 (116 octane) cut about 50/50. I think the fuel didn't have the detonation resistance that pure C16 would have had....but understand that $13/gal fuel is expensive to tune on. O-well, lessons learned.

You might just go ahead and spec out a compressor if your gonna go with a 408....the Mp T70 is good for V8's 360ci and less. For your desired engine size/power level, I would go with a custom spec'd compressor from http://www.precisionturbo.net/ from the get-go.

Something inbetween 70mm and 88mm should suffice nicely....and let me put this out there....depending on "where" in your rpm band you want the surge of boost to hit....size the exhaust trim. The smaller the "choke", the sooner the boost hit, the larger, the later.
A .85 would theoretically hit 2500-3500, A .96 would hit 3000-3500-4000, a 1.06 would hit 3500-4500.
 
Prine said:
lbs/minute is quite a bit different than PSI (pounds per square inch)....so no, I do not mean it will push 70 psi.

The most boost I have ever seen go through an engine was 45 psi and the engine that consumed that didn't last but a few pulls before the headgasket yielded....it was a Mitsubishi 2.0L cast iron 4 cyl. block, aluminum head with steel o-rings, 4 ARP head studs per cyl., copper head gasket...and couldn't stand that power level.

I think where my friend Wes messed up with that engine was he was running 91 octane/C16 (116 octane) cut about 50/50. I think the fuel didn't have the detonation resistance that pure C16 would have had....but understand that $13/gal fuel is expensive to tune on. O-well, lessons learned.

You might just go ahead and spec out a compressor if your gonna go with a 408....the Mp T70 is good for V8's 360ci and less. For your desired engine size/power level, I would go with a custom spec'd compressor from http://www.precisionturbo.net/ from the get-go.

Something inbetween 70mm and 88mm should suffice nicely....and let me put this out there....depending on "where" in your rpm band you want the surge of boost to hit....size the exhaust trim. The smaller the "choke", the sooner the boost hit, the larger, the later.
A .85 would theoretically hit 2500-3500, A .96 would hit 3000-3500-4000, a 1.06 would hit 3500-4500.
Click to expand...

Oh,thanks for clearing that up!

THe most ive ever seen for a street car that run on pump fuel
was around 31 psi. An thats plenty!
In japan ive read about a greddy stroked sr20det running 57psi from
a t88. But yeh ,we use c16 here too for racing if your going to running
big psi numbers. Its cheaper to have a full tank of c16 then a rebuild!
I guess your freind learnt his lesson too!

An the bigger the exhaust wheel,the more psi the turbo can run efficiently right?

I know a lil about turbos,but not a whole lot,always learning.
 
Prine, what about an 400 series Bullseye turbo for him?

Whats your take on them? I've heard good things but obviously haven't used one.

And those of you that thing doing a turbo setup is a "basic" build have some fun surprises headed their way.
Every time you go to do something you have to rework something else to make it fit or work the way you intend. As far as design goes, yeah its the standard setup for a single turbo.
With turboing a truck you will have an easier time and not have to shoe horn pipes, fuel lines and various other things.

Read these articles, they should help you out some.
http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=51153.0
 
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