Turbo Hookup????????????

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jamesg63

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I have a 73 225 / 6. I want to add a Turbo but am totally lost at where everything hooks up. I believe I'll still need a wastegate ( Not sure what kind)???? and a Intercooler. I have enclosed a couple pics of what I have. If anybody out there can lead me in the right direction of how this thing goes together, I have no idea where the blowoff valve goes or the 2 flanges of the wastegate. I believe 1 of them will hook to the tube coming off the exhaust manifold. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 73 225 / 6. I want to add a Turbo but am totally lost at where everything hooks up. I believe I'll still need a wastegate ( Not sure what kind)???? and a Intercooler. I have enclosed a couple pics of what I have. If anybody out there can lead me in the right direction of how this thing goes together, I have no idea where the blowoff valve goes or the 2 flanges of the wastegate. I believe 1 of them will hook to the tube coming off the exhaust manifold. Thanks in advance.
We put a turbo on a slant 6 about 20 years ago. It was a draw-thru system from a 3.8 Buick. I made an adapter that bolted on to the 1-bbl intake and then the turbo compressor section bolted on to the adapter. Everything else remained stock and the car ran like crazy. Big drawback was that the turbo and carb stuck way up out of the hood. About 10 years ago I did one using a turbo from a Nissan 300ZX single turbo motor. These turbos have the proper seals to use with a draw-thru system also and I got my hands on a carb adapter for a turbo on ebay. I bought a 4-bbl intake from Clifford then bolted the carb onto it. The mixture from the carb flowed forward to the turbo intake and then the turbo blew the mixture into the lower half of the adaper and then down to the intake manifold. Look sweet and ran good.
Are you looking to go with a carb draw-thru, blow-thru, or the injected route? If it's in jection you want, you may try the Megasquirt route. If you do, you'll have to get a trigger wheel ( or I can make you one ) and sensor ( for which you'll have to make a mounting bracket ), add an O2 sensor to the exhaust. The Megasquirt system has a built-in map sensor that can go to 20 PSI boost. The stock exhaust manifold should work just fine but I would go with a hotter cam and some better slugs just for insurance. Bill
crossram5
 
you better be making a brace to hold up the turbo becasue that little peice of tubing and flange is not when it get hot...

and im sorry he stole your money with that exhaust manifold...

the guys to talk to on here about turbo slants are billdeadman and charrlie_S but i dont think he is on here anymore...

have you been on slantsix.org and thrown your idea's at them??

NA is always fun to!
 

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I have a 73 225 / 6. I want to add a Turbo but am totally lost at where everything hooks up. I believe I'll still need a wastegate ( Not sure what kind)???? and a Intercooler. I have enclosed a couple pics of what I have. If anybody out there can lead me in the right direction of how this thing goes together, I have no idea where the blowoff valve goes or the 2 flanges of the wastegate. I believe 1 of them will hook to the tube coming off the exhaust manifold. Thanks in advance.
Something I forgot to mention in my other post: the reason I suggested another cam is this. The car we put the Buick system on was a 72 Dart from California. It was rated at 105 HP. The top end on the car was 105 MPH. With the turbo on and running 7 PSI boost, the car would accelerate like crazy, but the top end was still 105 MPH. After a better cam was installed, the car ran faster to the point we didn't want to find out at what point the rods would snap. So I don't know how many RPMs it would run. There are now available chromoly H-beam rods available for the 225, but I forget who has them. Check with Diamond pistons and they should know. Bill
crossram5
 
I am no turbo /6 guru, and all I know is what some kind-hearted and very patient individuals who post on this site have taught me, but I can answer a few of your questions, and am glad to do so,

First off, why do you wnt to turbocharge your car (not that it's a bad idea at all, but what kind of performance are you looking for?) Not until you answer a few questions can I give you worthwhile and reasonable answers to your questions. So, let's have it; is it going to be an "economy" daily driver with 200 horsepower, a street strip car with 400 horaepower, or a drag-only race car with 500 + horsepower??? All those are easily possible with a slant six, at varying expenditures, of course.

When we know what you WANT, we can better tell you what you NEED.

Please let us know, so we can help you, This may be the most fun you've ever had... :)
 
I am no turbo /6 guru, and all I know is what some kind-hearted and very patient individuals who post on this site have taught me, but I can answer a few of your questions, and am glad to do so,

First off, why do you wnt to turbocharge your car (not that it's a bad idea at all, but what kind of performance are you looking for?) Not until you answer a few questions can I give you worthwhile and reasonable answers to your questions. So, let's have it; is it going to be an "economy" daily driver with 200 horsepower, a street strip car with 400 horaepower, or a drag-only race car with 500 + horsepower??? All those are easily possible with a slant six, at varying expenditures, of course.

When we know what you WANT, we can better tell you what you NEED.

Please let us know, so we can help you, This may be the most fun you've ever had... :)


i like your new approach bill!
 
Well I have a stock 225 with a Carter 2bbl. I would like to drive frequently not so much a Daily driver though. So Fuel economy would be nice. However, I'd like to run at the strip occasionally. I really dont have to be the fastest car in town but would really like to be impressive. You know "Wow thats a Slant 6!"
 
Hey,
Have you read any books about turbocharging? What car is this going into? Is the header built for a specific chassis? Looks like the tube coming off the header towards the turbo is a bit long.

Quick laundry list: You need to get a 600 cfm 4bbl holley DP and a 4bbl intake, wide-band O2 system, proper fuel system, cheap boost tube kit (ebay) and a mechanically sound and tuned motor. Don't worry about an intercooler, meth injection or EFI right now. Stock pistons and rods are fine until you get the bug to up the psi. You will need to move the wastegate local to just before the turbo. Even angle it to flow better when open. Its useless where its at.

Start studying pics of turbo builds, put them all together and you should have a good running slant.

Lastly, do you have any fabrication skills (welding-designing)? This helps unless you have bottomless pockets.

Later

Ryan
 
Well I have a stock 225 with a Carter 2bbl. I would like to drive frequently not so much a Daily driver though. So Fuel economy would be nice. However, I'd like to run at the strip occasionally. I really dont have to be the fastest car in town but would really like to be impressive. You know "Wow thats a Slant 6!"

Tom Wolfe (Shaker 223) built a stock motor with a Buick Turbo that ran 12.95 @ 104 mph, and when I say "STOCK MOTOR," I think e had pretty much exactly what you have; a 2bbl "Super Six" intake with a stock exaust manifold that had a turbo mounting flange welded to it, and dialed back the ignition timing to about 18 degrees... everything else was pretty much stock (OEM.)


Here's what Wallace computers has to say about a 3300 pound car with 300 horsepower.

Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 3300 pounds and HP of 300 is 12.95 seconds and MPH of 103.43 MPH
Funny; that's almost exactly what Tom's car turned by bolting that turbo onto his othewise stock engine.

I don't think the driveability was affected at all; dunno about fuel economy.

Tom, can you shed any light on the fuel mileage after the turbo?

Hope this helps.
 
Tom Wolfe (Shaker 223) built a stock motor with a Buick Turbo that ran 12.95 @ 104 mph, and when I say "STOCK MOTOR," I think e had pretty much exactly what you have; a 2bbl "Super Six" intake with a stock exaust manifold that had a turbo mounting flange welded to it, and dialed back the ignition timing to about 18 degrees... everything else was pretty much stock (OEM.)


Here's what Wallace computers has to say about a 3300 pound car with 300 horsepower.

Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 3300 pounds and HP of 300 is 12.95 seconds and MPH of 103.43 MPH
Funny; that's almost exactly what Tom's car turned by bolting that turbo onto his othewise stock engine.

I don't think the driveability was affected at all; dunno about fuel economy.

Tom, can you shed any light on the fuel mileage after the turbo?

Hope this helps.
The slant we did was a 1972 model from California which had different emmission standards and was rated at only 105 HP. It was all stock at first witht he Buick turbo, but when the car was driven hard it would peg the temperature guage. One night when it happened we popped the hood to see that the exhaust manifold was slightly orange from being extremely hot. The emmission Rochester carb was very lean and not suited to our purpose so we put a Holley 750 on it which cured the problem. As we kept increasing boost thogh it would detonate at times so we added a lever switch under the secondary actuating pushrod. As soon as the secondaries opened up even just a little, the switch would close and trigger a windshield washer pump in a seperate tank that held a 50/50 mix of water and methynol. The mixture ran through a hose up under the air filter and sprayed into the top of the carb. Since there was only 1 hole into the intake manifold, we didn't feel that cylinder to cylinder distribution would be an issue. It really helped alot. Eventually though the boost was raised to 15 PSI and the engine couldn't take it anymore. It burned the center 2 pistons down the sides pastt he rings. I believe that those 2 cylinders were getting the most charge due to their shortest length. If I do one of these again, it will be with an aftermarker intake or a homemade unit. Nice thing about that Holley, even though it was very big for this engine, it never hessitated or bogged at any point. I believe that the mixture got well dis
crossram5
persed as it went through the compressor wheel. Bill
 
Well I have a stock 225 with a Carter 2bbl. I would like to drive frequently not so much a Daily driver though. So Fuel economy would be nice. However, I'd like to run at the strip occasionally. I really dont have to be the fastest car in town but would really like to be impressive. You know "Wow thats a Slant 6!"
I am building a Desoto hemi for my 67 Valinat right now. I do have a 225 I'd like to play with later. Diamond Pistons makes some good slugs and also has chromoly H-beam rods for the 225 which would really make it bullet proof. The mains on the crank are as big as a 440 so it should work well. Adding a set of bottom end studs should finish it off. Shouldn't break the bank either. Bill
 
Hey,
Have you read any books about turbocharging? What car is this going into? Is the header built for a specific chassis? Looks like the tube coming off the header towards the turbo is a bit long.

Quick laundry list: You need to get a 600 cfm 4bbl holley DP and a 4bbl intake, wide-band O2 system, proper fuel system, cheap boost tube kit (ebay) and a mechanically sound and tuned motor. Don't worry about an intercooler, meth injection or EFI right now. Stock pistons and rods are fine until you get the bug to up the psi. You will need to move the wastegate local to just before the turbo. Even angle it to flow better when open. Its useless where its at.

Start studying pics of turbo builds, put them all together and you should have a good running slant.

Lastly, do you have any fabrication skills (welding-designing)? This helps unless you have bottomless pockets.

Later

Ryan
I've watched you run on Youtube and talked to you some years ago when you were running twin turbos and a thermoquad. Hope my hemi Valiant runs as good as yours. Bill
 
The slant we did was a 1972 model from California which had different emmission standards and was rated at only 105 HP. It was all stock at first witht he Buick turbo, but when the car was driven hard it would peg the temperature guage. One night when it happened we popped the hood to see that the exhaust manifold was slightly orange from being extremely hot. The emmission Rochester carb was very lean and not suited to our purpose so we put a Holley 750 on it which cured the problem. As we kept increasing boost thogh it would detonate at times so we added a lever switch under the secondary actuating pushrod. As soon as the secondaries opened up even just a little, the switch would close and trigger a windshield washer pump in a seperate tank that held a 50/50 mix of water and methynol. The mixture ran through a hose up under the air filter and sprayed into the top of the carb. Since there was only 1 hole into the intake manifold, we didn't feel that cylinder to cylinder distribution would be an issue. It really helped alot. Eventually though the boost was raised to 15 PSI and the engine couldn't take it anymore. It burned the center 2 pistons down the sides pastt he rings. I believe that those 2 cylinders were getting the most charge due to their shortest length. If I do one of these again, it will be with an aftermarker intake or a homemade unit. Nice thing about that Holley, even though it was very big for this engine, it never hessitated or bogged at any point. I believe that the mixture got well dis
crossram5
persed as it went through the compressor wheel. Bill

Thanks for that information, Bill. Detonation is the killer, alright. I think Tom was very conservative with ignition timing (something like 18 degrees total mechanical advance,) and he MAY have mofidied his carb for "blow-through" usage (richer moxture) to stave off detonation. I think I read where he used 21 pounds of boost to achieve that 12-second run.

Still, that's an impressive performance for an otherwise stock engine, I thought..
 
The stock engine modded with 340 valve springs and a copper head gasket ended up going 11.77 at 117mph before a piston got hurt. I was running nearly 30psi. Home modded Holley 600dp, walbro fuel pump, mallory regulator, ported clifford intake, and a Buick based turbo. Lots of ebay parts (intercooler, BOV, pipes, clamps, silicone hoses...etc). Watch the AFR and timing and it will live. I had 30 full track passes on the engine and 3000 street miles with a lot of beating. The engine was in good shape when I started and had 80k miles on it when I started the project. Compression was down to 90psi per cyl (70psi on one) when I pulled the engine. I started with about 120psi per cyl. I have it as a back up.

One trip to the track and back (100 miles), I made 3 passes and averaged around 19mpg. The turbocharged slant needs a 2.76 or at most a 2.94 gear.
 
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