Turn signal cancel cam

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klumppm1

klumppm1

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Hi friends. I am going to replace the turn signal cancelling cam on my 65 valiant. Looking for instructions on how to seperate the cam from the switch??? Do they pry apart? I dont want to break anything. Thanks.
 
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the one on my 72 duster was pretty brittle. i opted just to get the whole switch.
 
View attachment 1715088846 View attachment 17150 88846[/ATTACH]
zombywoof said:
the one on my 72 duster was pretty brittle. i opted just to get the whole switch.
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Understood. I just ordered a Grant steering wheel, and ordered the cam along with it. So I would like to try that option first. If I break it, then I will replace the whole thing. I just can't figure how they come apart.
 
i did take mine apart (after i had the new one in hand) i used 2 small screwdrivers and pried it apart alternating pressure from side to side
before.jpg
after.jpg
 
There are 2 tiny stakes in the metal post ( thin sides, see pic ) that hold the cam down. Move those first? Force the cams over them? I would straighten/flatten them before pushing the new cam on then distort again. That is if I replaced cam only. I never have replaced less than entire switch assembly in any vehicle.
 
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klumppm1 said:
View attachment 1715088849 Hi friends. I am going to replace the turn signal cancelling cam on my 65 valiant. Looking for instructions on how to seperate the cam from the switch??? Do they pry apart? I dont want to break anything. Thanks.
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Yes.
The plastic cam part comes up off of the post where the signal arm screw went through by lightly prying it up.
About the only thing you could break by doing this is the part you want to replace anyway.
 
TrailBeast said:
Yes.
The plastic cam part comes up off of the post where the signal arm screw went through by lightly prying it up.
About the only thing you could break by doing this is the part you want to replace anyway.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice!
 
I got mine for my "new" 66 B-Cuda from Rock Auto, about $15.00
When you take it apart (pry it off), don't loose any of the little brass pieces, under the switch. They are real small, and tend to stick to the cam when prying off. And if they do come off, they fit "opposite" of each other, one faces up, the other, faces down. These are the little pieces that fit on the "tits" on the bottom of the switch,they have small brass pieces on them, and slide back, and forth, according to which signal is on. Top one, flat side is down, lower one flat side is up. If these little plastic pieces with the brass on them, are not right, your turn signals will not work properly. Be carefull prying the old one off, cause them little things will stick, and fly. Hope this helps. This is for 66, and older. 67, and up is different. Also use some "di-electric grease" and lube the little sliders, and the underside of the switch, to make it opperate easy.

barracudadave67
 
barracudadave67 said:
I got mine for my "new" 66 B-Cuda from Rock Auto, about $15.00
When you take it apart (pry it off), don't loose any of the little brass pieces, under the switch. They are real small, and tend to stick to the cam when prying off. And if they do come off, they fit "opposite" of each other, one faces up, the other, faces down. These are the little pieces that fit on the "tits" on the bottom of the switch,they have small brass pieces on them, and slide back, and forth, according to which signal is on. Top one, flat side is down, lower one flat side is up. If these little plastic pieces with the brass on them, are not right, your turn signals will not work properly. Be carefull prying the old one off, cause them little things will stick, and fly. Hope this helps. This is for 66, and older. 67, and up is different. Also use some "di-electric grease" and lube the little sliders, and the underside of the switch, to make it opperate easy.

barracudadave67
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Awesome. Thanks.
 
I was able to carefully pry the two apart, and the new cam works perfect. Thanks everyone.
 
zombywoof said:
i did take mine apart (after i had the new one in hand) i used 2 small screwdrivers and pried it apart alternating pressure from side to side
View attachment 1715088852 View attachment 1715088853
Click to expand...

I stared at your picture with the little piece of metal you placed between the contacts, and finally realized what I needed to do. Using any straight-edge you can eye-ball exactly how far, and where to bend the contacts to work make contact with the ones on the base. I got my brake lights working doing that (only bent the inside contact) blinkers are next. Thx man!
 
glad the photo helped you out. that little metal strip was part of the assembly as it was in there when i took it apart.
 
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