Turn Signal Problem - SOLVED

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I connected both red and black wires to the same ammeter terminal, now my turn signal works. I have a very small voltage drop between the battery and alternator with key in run, 0.3 volts, and my voltage drop in the ignition circuit with key in run is 1.1 volts, so I still have a bit of work to do. But at least I’m on the right track.
 
The ammeter studs were corroded and both terminals were a little loose when I removed them. I may just reach up behind the dash and clean the studs as best as I can and tighten those terminals in their proper positions and see what happens.

I wouldn’t mind having a functional ammeter in this car.
 
Nice work! Put in a set of triple gauges(oil psi, coolant and amps). Below dash. Leave factory ones in dash but unhooked
hotrod swinger said:
The ammeter studs were corroded and both terminals were a little loose when I removed them. I may just reach up behind the dash and clean the studs as best as I can and tighten those terminals in their proper positions and see what happens.

I wouldn’t mind having a functional ammeter in this car.
Click to expand...
 
I cleaned up the ammeter studs and terminals, added some lubricant, tightened both terminals to their respective studs.

With key in run my voltage drop is 0.14 at the alternator and 0.84 in the ignition circuit. Not perfect but much better.

The turn signals work now.
 
Voltage drop at VR is 0.80

Voltage drop at the fuse box:
red with white tracer is 0.15
black is 0.25

at ignition switch red is 0.19, blue is 0.34

engine side at bulkhead blue with white tracer is 0.47

at ballast blue with write tracer is 0.64

it looks like this is just a cumulative drop across all connections
 
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