Um...I'm confused

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kittypancake

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I trying to redo my front end. Why do I have one tie rod really extended and the other closed to make the spindles roughly straight? Getting the steering wheel straight is another subject...
 
Well you have to get the wheel straight FIRST

Now, there is "stuff" what happens...............Custom steering wheels don't have master splines, and sometimes guys grind off the master splines because they could not figure out a problem, AND you can assemble the steering coupler 1/2 turn off, which puts your wheel exactly upside down, everything else being "right"

1...Center the box. At close to center look for the master spline on the box. With the column in the car and either connected or not to the steering box, with the steering wheel properly oriented and centered, the box spline should line right up, or very close. A fraction of a turn.

With that done, the tie rods should be nearly equal. Is it possible you just THINK the wheels are straight? you cannot really tell without a big straightedge, or actually driving the car, and this is AFTER you align the front end

Is it possible on or more of the tie rods / ends are off "something else?" That is, are they actually the same in pairs?

Is this something that "has changed?" In other words, is something bent / broken /rusted in the front end?

Now, if it's a matter of the toe is correct, the front tires are straight, and the steering wheel is cocked, all you need do in that case is simply "walk" the tie rod assy's equal amounts until the wheel centers, then recheck / reset the toe
 
Well you have to get the wheel straight FIRST

Now, there is "stuff" what happens...............Custom steering wheels don't have master splines, and sometimes guys grind off the master splines because they could not figure out a problem, AND you can assemble the steering coupler 1/2 turn off, which puts your wheel exactly upside down, everything else being "right"

1...Center the box. At close to center look for the master spline on the box. With the column in the car and either connected or not to the steering box, with the steering wheel properly oriented and centered, the box spline should line right up, or very close. A fraction of a turn.

With that done, the tie rods should be nearly equal. Is it possible you just THINK the wheels are straight? you cannot really tell without a big straightedge, or actually driving the car, and this is AFTER you align the front end

Is it possible on or more of the tie rods / ends are off "something else?" That is, are they actually the same in pairs?

Is this something that "has changed?" In other words, is something bent / broken /rusted in the front end?

Now, if it's a matter of the toe is correct, the front tires are straight, and the steering wheel is cocked, all you need do in that case is simply "walk" the tie rod assy's equal amounts until the wheel centers, then recheck / reset the toe
 
No wheels on car yet...just kinda guessing
I was counting steering turns lock to lock and dividing by 2. That put the wheel about 90 degrees off. Could I have installed the pitman arm wrong? I thought it could only go one way....
 
Yep. Forgot to mention, pitman is keyed as well. Seems to me these are not "exactly" centered, but if you make certain all the master splines are intact and lined up it will come out "right". Then align toe to center
 
Thanks.
New pitman and idler, 4 new tie rod ends and adjusters, I think they're correct...but now I've found the steering box leaks like a sieve...so now there's that, too!
 
I just made the tie-rod equal, hooked up all the steering gear, removed gear to install POS headers, reinstalled, centered wheels (approximately), and then installed coupler on gearbox, then column into coupler, then wheel onto column.
 
i had the same problem with new moog pitman and idler arm nothing fixed it except for putting the old pitman arm on it wasnt very worn so i figured it would be fine hope you find a better solution
 
i had the same problem with new moog pitman and idler arm nothing fixed it except for putting the old pitman arm on it wasnt very worn so i figured it would be fine hope you find a better solution
Hmmm....gotta see if I still have the old arm for a test...
 
What year car do you have, if you are unfortunate enough to have a 67 the idler arm is very expensive because it is a one off mix between a 66 and a 68, I think you can still use a 66 on it but it is a different length than the correct one. and that can throw off your adjustments.
 
What year car do you have, if you are unfortunate enough to have a 67 the idler arm is very expensive because it is a one off mix between a 66 and a 68, I think you can still use a 66 on it but it is a different length than the correct one. and that can throw off your adjustments.
It is 72
 
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