Unhook SMOG CRAP???? HELP

-
pastortom1

pastortom1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
3,466
Reaction score
60
Location
Zephyrhills, Florida
On my buddy's 1978 Volare Wagon with the Super-Six........under the hood is loaded with vacuum actuators and junk.........The heat riser tube is missing from the manifold to the air cleaner........a vacuum line is missing from the electronic control ON the air cleaner.......one is missing from a little gizmo that has other vacuum lines on it (has to be a leak there, and something isn't being fed)...........

This is a NIGHTMARE of junk...............

We're wanting to unhook ALL that we can, and try to get back to a reasonably simple set-up to try to get his mileage up from the current 9 MPG.

We can install a manual choke to eliminate all that mess.......BUT, what about the rest of that junk??

There MUST be some of you guys that have done this, and KNOW what to unhook, how to block things off properly, what NOT to unhook, etc........

HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE-ELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP. !!

Come on guys...........chime in here...we REALLY need your expertise and advice on this one.........

Again, it's a 1978 Super Six with all those little electronic and vacuum gizmo's.............. :axe: (That's US, chasing the gizmo's.......!)
 
Excellent place to go for /6 stuff like tech and such. Good writings.

I'd need to see the car in front of me to do this. Do not discard everything you take off.
 
OK......... We found the vacuum advance hooked up to a little gizmo marked "VAC"..it was filthy, and just dangling, with 2 vacuum hookups, and only one used.....the other was wide open. We eliminated it, and ran the advance directly from the carb to the distributor.

The temperature sensor in the aircleaner was unhooked......we re-attached the vacuum feed.

We also disconnected the EGR and plugged the line.(what else should we do with this?.........Remove it and make a delete cover, or what? Is it OK just sitting there unhooked?

AND, we found the OSAC was just plain unhooked........We left it that way, and made sure the line that used to feed it was blocked.

The ECS (charcoal canister system) was fully intact and hooked up...we left it that way.

After these few changes, on a test drive, we notived the idle was a little higher, and the car MAY have had a little better response, probably due to the vacuum advance being rerouted.

We have yet to replace the carb pre-heating hose (from the exhaust manifold......this is missing completely..probably not a very good thing unless we change the whole air setup......?) I was concerned that the choke may not be opening fast enough and wasting gas......).

Any more input?? We could use all we can get.......... :read2:
 
The dealer still sells egr block off plates $6.00. Bypassing the oasc thing is good, check to see if the vaccum advance is working and not leaking. You can adjust the trans kickdown to hold in gear longer letting it rev a bit more too. (it slides foward from the trans lever towards the engine underneath.) Oh yea slants like alot of inital timing, more than the book states. try advancing it a bit (but not to pinging)
 
Basically you need only have several vacuum lines.

1) One from the carb to the vac adv on the dist. Get rid of any other connections in between.

2) A vacuum line from the carb to the pcv connection on the valve cover.

3) There should be a breather hose connection from the valve cover to the aircleaner.

4) I would retain the vacuum line going from the carb to the aircleaner for the heat riser, this helps heat the incoming air when the engine is cold and improves/shortens warmup = better mileage.

5/6) There are probably several lines from the fuel vapor canister (its located probably on the right front next to the radiator) to the carb, retain those, they dont hurt performance and help retain fuel vapor.

The rest of the stuff can be canned, but as said above throw the stuff in a box in case you ever need to have an inspection or something you do now isn't quite right.

Keep in mind tho, if you are only getting 9 mpg something else is futzed. I'd do a basic tune up including a carb rebuild.
 
66dartgt said:
Basically you need only have several vacuum lines.

1) One from the carb to the vac adv on the dist. Get rid of any other connections in between.

2) A vacuum line from the carb to the pcv connection on the valve cover.

3) There should be a breather hose connection from the valve cover to the aircleaner.

4) I would retain the vacuum line going from the carb to the aircleaner for the heat riser, this helps heat the incoming air when the engine is cold and improves/shortens warmup = better mileage.

5/6) There are probably several lines from the fuel vapor canister (its located probably on the right front next to the radiator) to the carb, retain those, they dont hurt performance and help retain fuel vapor.

The rest of the stuff can be canned, but as said above throw the stuff in a box in case you ever need to have an inspection or something you do now isn't quite right.

Keep in mind tho, if you are only getting 9 mpg something else is futzed. I'd do a basic tune up including a carb rebuild.
Click to expand...

^How accurate is this?
 
66dartgt said:
Basically you need only have several vacuum lines.

1) One from the carb to the vac adv on the dist. Get rid of any other connections in between.

2) A vacuum line from the carb to the pcv connection on the valve cover.

3) There should be a breather hose connection from the valve cover to the aircleaner.

4) I would retain the vacuum line going from the carb to the aircleaner for the heat riser, this helps heat the incoming air when the engine is cold and improves/shortens warmup = better mileage.

5/6) There are probably several lines from the fuel vapor canister (its located probably on the right front next to the radiator) to the carb, retain those, they dont hurt performance and help retain fuel vapor.

The rest of the stuff can be canned.
Click to expand...
I have all this except for #3 and #5/6. I have the vacuum line from Carb to Dist & from Brake booster to manifold to aftermarket vacuum gauge, and from vapor canister to fuel tank, and from PCV to carb.
 
Pastor Tom!

EPA Memo 1A. This refers to a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) memorandum that says it's illegal to remove, disconnect or disable a required emissions control device on any pollution controlled motor vehicle (PCMV), pretty much any 1968 (1966 in California) or later model year car/light duty vehicle used on public roads. What this means is that even if you don't have a local emissions-testing requirement, technically you can still break federal law by chucking/disabling your vehicle's smog equipment.

OK?

Now that we've dispensed with the formalities, the info on the vacuum hoses looks good. I hogged out the the EGR port in the bottom of the intake manifold and pounded an oil gallery/freeze plug into it.

From my V-8 experience: Ditch the air pump and belt, if one is present. Remove the fitting that connects the air line to the exhaust manifold and block off the attachment port. Replace the catalytic converter with pipe or with a low-restriction one (w/o air injection) and a resonator. Also inspect exhaust for flattened pipe. Replace as necessary.

Overhaul the carb and block off un-used ports or get a carb from a 68 or later car (for the PCV connection). FWIW AutoZone's remans are done by Holley.
 
72 Demon said:
FWIW AutoZone's remans are done by Holley.
Click to expand...


Funny story. I went into my local O'Really's parts store and asked for a rebuild kit for the 1920 on my '72 and they shared that "huh" glance and took 15 minutes trying to find the right book to even begin looking it up. I love throwing these guys for a loop with the slant!
 
Just a word for the wise. DONT BUY A REMAN anything if you can help it...esp a carb. They are junk and will give to tons of problems. Rebuild it yourself its just not that hard. They are Manuals and even service videos over a slantsix.org.
Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top