Universal aluminum brake master cylinder

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dart67

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Merry Christmas, I was looking at the universal master cylinder and they have a 1 1/32 and a 1 1/8 bore does it make a difference which one to get, going in a 74 duster 360 street car? Thanks
 
What is the stock bore size?

Any amount larger or smaller will change the pedal feel and travel

If you have power brakes you probably will not noticed the difference.

If manual you will have to apply a little more leg pressure if the stock is 1" and less travel.

1-1/32 is like 4% more pressure.

If you go smaller like 7/8" or whatever the size is you will have less leg pressure but more travel.

BTW force10brakes makes a Chrysler aluminum master

Screenshot_20231224-182322.png




1962-74 Mopar Bendix Style ALUMINUM Master Cylinder
 
A link to the master that you're referring to would be immensely helpful.
"Universal" usually means something that won't work on just about everything...
What's wrong with getting an actual Mopar-specific master, that fits and works as they were designed to?
 
The stock one I have is rusty inside and figured I'd get the newer ones that are plastic and avoid the rust
 
those sound incredibly big for a street car. 1" and 15/16" are about as big as i like to run on street cars. the one you're looking at might likely be for a disc/disc setup, so check to be sure.
 
Merry Christmas, I was looking at the universal master cylinder and they have a 1 1/32 and a 1 1/8 bore does it make a difference which one to get, going in a 74 duster 360 street car? Thanks
I got an aluminum MC from Dr Diff for my 72 Challenger with manual brakes front disc/rear drum. Replaced the stock looking MC. Pedal height is higher, but much improved braking.

Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
 
Thanks everyone, I'll look for a stock one
 
Thanks Ricks70Duster340 that's what I was looking for
 
It says you can use your original push rod?
 
You can get them machined/sleeved back to oem specs, then Dot 5 fluid from here on out. Problem free.
Any idea where rebuild.kits could be had?
 
Ya that makes sense that it would be to short
 
You certainly can, but if you use the 2 bolt adapter plate that comes with it the original pushrod will be too short to give full pedal travel.

Ya that makes sense that it would be to short

100% not true.

DoctorDiff's master cylinders work just fine with the factory brake push rod, you do not need an adjustable length push rod. The factory brake push rod, with the DoctorDiff master cylinder and adaptor, results in exactly the same brake pedal height as with a factory master cylinder.

I have been running DoctorDiff's 15/16" master cylinder with a factory manual brake push rod on my Duster for over a decade now, I run one on my Challenger as well. Both cars were swapped from factory master cylinders directly to the DoctorDiff aluminum master cylinder with adaptor and both use a factory brake push rod, no change in pedal height.
 
100% not true.

DoctorDiff's master cylinders work just fine with the factory brake push rod, you do not need an adjustable length push rod. The factory brake push rod, with the DoctorDiff master cylinder and adaptor, results in exactly the same brake pedal height as with a factory master cylinder.

I have been running DoctorDiff's 15/16" master cylinder with a factory manual brake push rod on my Duster for over a decade now, I run one on my Challenger as well. Both cars were swapped from factory master cylinders directly to the DoctorDiff aluminum master cylinder with adaptor and both use a factory brake push rod, no change in pedal height.
Interesting. I was not able to get full braking with the stock rod. It was only after using the adj rod that things worked.
 
So I want the 15/16 not the 1 1/32 ?
 
Interesting. I was not able to get full braking with the stock rod. It was only after using the adj rod that things worked.

Did you have manual or power brakes? There are different brake push rods for manual and power, you can’t mix a power brake push rod with a manual brake a set up.

So I want the 15/16 not the 1 1/32 ?

Depends. I prefer the 15/16” for manual brakes, it gives a higher line pressure (more clamp force at the caliper) but it also means a slightly longer travel on the brake pedal. The 1 1/32” will be a higher/harder pedal, but less brake force.

I like the 15/16” because it the longer travel also makes brake modulation easier. But it does mean a longer pedal travel.
 
Did you have manual or power brakes? There are different brake push rods for manual and power, you can’t mix a power brake push rod with a manual brake a set up.
Have manual brakes. When I got the car the front disc brakes were not original so not sure what was correct or not with the MC. In my case to make the new alum MC work properly I had to use the adj pushrod.
 
Have manual brakes. When I got the car the front disc brakes were not original so not sure what was correct or not with the MC. In my case to make the new alum MC work properly I had to use the adj pushrod.

Probably because you had the wrong pushrod to begin with. The DoctorDiff master cylinder doesn't require the adjustable push rod, as I said I run mine with a factory manual brake push rod and it works great, no change in pedal height from original.

Screenshot 2023-12-27 at 3.10.09 PM.png
 
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