Upgrading Door Locks

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TNT440_Cbody

TNT440_Cbody

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I currently don't have keys to my doors to my '64 Dart but I have some spare door locks from a '68 C-body. The ignition on the Dart has already been changed to the newer style of key and it would be nice to make the door locks match.

My question is: How do I make the hole to position the newer style locks properly? I have access to Greenlee punches- so do I make the new hole concentric with the current one or does it have to be offset?

Thanks!
 
Concentric. Note that '60-'65 and '66-up door locks use the same key (Y152 is the blank number).

I don't think I'd use a punch (though I don't know what a Greenlee punch is); I'd probably use a burr on a die grinder.
 
A Greenlee punch.

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This will allow me to make a perfect circle and be more precise than a grinder and professional looking if the locks are ever removed again. I'll put the outer "fat" part inside the door and pull the cutter through. At least that's the idea. :bom:

So the ignition switch I have might be original? I tried to re-key one of my '68 door locks myself but don't have all the right tumbler lengths so I can only put in three of the 5 existing ones to make my current ignition key work. I guess 3 is better than one but I'll probably just pay a locksmith $45 to have him re-key the two door locks.

Actually, if I have the whole car keyed to match my '68 300, I'll only need one set of keys! :sign7:
 
Ooh! I'm changing my vote. I'd use a Greenlee punch. :toothy10: I don't recall exactly but I think the '66-up locks may require a notch, not just a perfect circle, for retention of the lock cylinder in the correct rotative position. I know the '60-'65 cylinders take a keyhole-shaped hole. You may want to have a look at a '66-up car and adjust your procedure accordingly.

Remember the ignition switch and the ignition lock cylinder are separate parts. Interchange on the ignition lock cylinder is '60-'68 IIRC. The ignition lock cylinder and the '66-up door lock cylinders are easy to rekey; the '60-'65 door cylinders are harder because of their staked construction.

You can still get sets of three (ignition and two door cylinders).
 
The '66-up door lock cylinder holes have 4 notches to index the lock cylinder. You could cut the hole and then add the notches with a file. You need the notches to keep the whole cylinder from turning when you twist the key.
 
That's a good point about the notches. I will make sure that whatever punch I get is the right diameter; if one exists, then file the notches to "key" the lock in place.

Thankfully I have bare '68 doors to make all the measurements from and check that the punch fits through the '68's hole, as well as measuring the lock cylinder itself. :)

"What did you call me? A '68's-hole?" :grin: (ok... not that funny I guess)
 
When I bought my wagon the door keys were lost. I just removed the door locks and the ignition switch took them to a locksmith and for $50 bucks he made a key for the door locks and match the ignition switch to them. Jayson
 
jysnflem said:
When I bought my wagon the door keys were lost. I just removed the door locks and the ignition switch took them to a locksmith and for $50 bucks he made a key for the door locks and match the ignition switch to them. Jayson
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Looks like I'll have to raise my rates as I key them for a lot less than that! #-o
 
jysnflem said:
When I bought my wagon the door keys were lost. I just removed the door locks and the ignition switch took them to a locksmith and for $50 bucks he made a key for the door locks and match the ignition switch to them. Jayson
Click to expand...

Jayson,
I just checked out your pics. I LOVE YOUR DART! Nice wagon too, I keep eyeballing a '63 Valiant wagon on craigslist for a new daily driver. If I didn't already have 6 cars.... =;

cudamark said:
Looks like I'll have to raise my rates as I key them for a lot less than that! #-o
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Cudamark, maybe I should mail you my locks if you're that reasonable about the price! lol. I've found locals to do it anywhere from $30-$50.
 
TNT440_Cbody said:
Jayson,
I just checked out your pics. I LOVE YOUR DART! Nice wagon too, I keep eyeballing a '63 Valiant wagon on craigslist for a new daily driver. If I didn't already have 6 cars.... =;



Cudamark, maybe I should mail you my locks if you're that reasonable about the price! lol. I've found locals to do it anywhere from $30-$50.
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I don't know if it's worth the shipping and wait. I get $25.00 if you have the ignition w/key and want to get the doors to match. Same if you have a door cyl with key and want to match the ignition. Add $5.00 if you have no key at all. USPS adds $5.00 each way via priority mail.
Thanks, Mark
 
cudamark said:
I don't know if it's worth the shipping and wait. I get $25.00 if you have the ignition w/key and want to get the doors to match. Same if you have a door cyl with key and want to match the ignition. Add $5.00 if you have no key at all. USPS adds $5.00 each way via priority mail.
Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...

Had 'em done and they are already installed. Cost was the same, $25 for the pair.

Thanks. Turns out your price isn't too low after all. :thumblef:

I used a 7/8" Greenlee punch and my Dremel to make the notches. Worked out well but it is scary cutting into your car when there is little room for error.
 
So, if you swap up to the newer 66-up door locks - aside from enlarging/notching the lock hole, are there any other modifications that need to be done? The newer locks don't appear to have the same sort of plate on the end (straight vs bent backwards) - will the existing rod mate/fit right?
 
The '66-up lock cylinders are a little longer, so the offset dogleg in the lever isn't needed. Me, I remove the C-clip holding the lever onto the RH door cylinder and reposition the lever so it's just like the LH door cylinder; it is a minor but persistent annoyance to me that you turn the key counterclockwise to unlock and clockwise to lock on the left, but the other way round on the right. I like counterclockwise-unlock, clockwise-lock on both sides. But that's strictly optional.
 
'66-up. You can still get '66-up sets of three, and that's the best set to retrofit to the earlier cars. Better locks, less expensive.
 
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