Upper Control arm doesnt fit now?

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Aaron

Aaron

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I am putting my front suspension back together after putting in new rubber bushings (74 Duster). I have the passenger side done , but on the drivers side, the upper A-Arm doesnt fit back on the car very well. The passenger side went in as I expected it to, but the drivers side seems like its about 1/8 to 1/4 in. too wide. Anyone know any tricks to getting this thing back in? The bushings appear to be installed completely in the arm. Would it be better to just buy some tubular upper control arms from magnum force racing? (On another note: I already stripped the threads on the upper ball joint for the passenger side, and am going to weld it).
I appreciate any info you all can provide.
 
It's never a good idea to buy from Magnum Force, but that's another story.

Control arms get tweaked over the years. You can force it in or replace it, but you're unlikely to get it back to its true original shape to fit nicely.

If you want tubular arms, check out RMS parts.
 
I would not weld the new ball joint on the other side, you need a new control arm if it is stripped.
 
Welding ball joints in is done all the time. As a matter of fact it was done at the factory on the K-car derivatives.
 
I not saying that it isn't done, I am saying that the factory did not intend on the balljoint being welded in this case. It is supposed to be threaded. There is know one here that should or could put someone elses life in danger from a self engineered fix. Especially since a-body upper control arms are very plentiful.
 
Jim, Whats the RMS Website? I was considering a set of magumforce arms. Maybe not now...
 
Thank you for the reply's.
By RMS, did you mean reillymotorsports.com ?
I think I will order some of the tubular upper arms and just put everything back together next weekend instead of this one. The bushed ends are the correct ones for a street car correct? Will the tubular arms be fine for street use? I like the idea that I can get more caster with them.
Thank You
 
UPDATE:
I got it in! See PICS!! I am happy now.

I will weld the other ball joint, this one is tight to spec. The other one holds good, just not to spec, I think it will be fine. I will go tubular arms a little later (or maybe buy them just-in-case) so I have some spares I can put on.
Thanks Everyone!

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When I did the front on my 73 I had the same problem (1/4 inch too wide). I just gave the end of the bushing and the contact area on the car a wipedown with some grease and a few whacks with a rubber hammer and it slid right in.
I had to weld a balljoint on the 73 as well and that was 3 years ago and it's been my daily driver. Just make sure that the area is clean, grind it down just a little, and make sure that you get good penetration. It only takes a couple of good tack welds, you dont want too much heat on the balljoint.
I also check it for stress cracks every time Im under the car or have the wheel off.
 
Yes, RMS is Reilly Motor Sports. The bushing ends are NOT for the street. Use the heim joint ends (rod ends) for a street car.
 
I got the other side welded. I got GOOD penetration on the weld. I took it slow to be sure not to heat it up too much. All the suspension parts except for the shocks are installed and ready to go now. I just need to finish rebuilding the calipers and install them with the new brake hoses (oh and bleed the brakes) and I'm done! Its only taken four weeks to get this far! I guess it didnt take just one weekend like I thought it would. But it is the first time I've ever done this. :)
 
You're doing better than me. Took me 2 1/2 months from start to finish to do mine. Then again, mine was also a new steering box, I boxed the LCAs, and had the headers ceramic coated since they were out.

Still, you are making good time :wav:
 
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