Upper hose is collapsing!

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I would put my money on that overflow hose sucking shut being the problem too. the motor is trying to suck the coolant back to the radiator as it cools down and the flimsy hose is colapsing. disconnect it like stated earlier, at the nipple on the radiator, and see what happens.
 
Took the overflow off last night & the hose was plugged. Drilled the hole out as big as possible & re-installed. Also removed the t-stat but was not able to get everything back together. Now I will be putting it back together without the t-stat while I run several bottles of flush through it. Once it is flushed out I plan on re-installing a 160 t-stat & crossing my fingers. It could be a little while before I know any results, the super flush requires that you drive the car for 3-6 hours before removing it. Since the car is vapor locking, missing & not all that dependable right now I am not sure how long it will take me just to get 3 hours on it let alone closer to 6. Thanks for all the help for now guys.
 
After the flush is complete I would also recommend pulling the lower hose and with a garden hose fluse the block through the thermostat hole. I got a good amount of sediment out of mine that had settled in the bottom of the block, normal flush process didnt remove.
Joe
 
Yeah phish I think Chief is onto it with that. I was thinking about this last nite. If you already have it out so be it but maybe try it with the first fix of the overflow to see if that does it. Sorry for any bad input. Noel
 
My money is on the cheap overflow hose collapsing under vacuum.

Replace with a stiffer hose, or at least disconnect it altogether to see if this breaks the vacuum.

The thermostat cant be the problem because its only function is to keep the block from running too cold.

Also, do not put a higher PSI cap on your radiator than what is called for. Unless you like replacing radiators. :)
 
I agree that the t-stat could not cause the collapsing hose; it had to be the clogged (cheap) overflow.
I have also been having vapor lock problems & when it locks, the air filter is too hot to even take it off. My father thinks that this motor has some circulation problems that are causing it to run hotter than it should. I took the t-stat out last night so I can get as much flow as possible while I flush the motor. I am going to run a super flush & then a regular maintenance flush through it. There was a 195 stat in it which is hotter than I need in the south so I am replacing it with a 160 but I am going to wait until after flushing so I do not do any unnecessary damage to it.
Thanks for the tip Joe (yooper). There were some nasty chunks when I replaced a freeze plug. The previous owner put around 600 miles on this car since 2002 so it sat a lot.
Now if I can figure out the missing problem.....
 
Have you checked to see if your Manifold Heat control Valve isnt stuck shut?

That would cause your manifold to get really hot.
 
IMO there is still air in your cooling system. If the radiator cap is sealing properly, then the only source of intake in the cooling system is through the neck of the radiator. The hose between the neck and the reservoir ought to be full of coolant.

The system seems to be venting overpressure properly. It is not re-admitting coolant. The problem is between the fill neck of the radiator and the bottom of the coolant reservoir. Ruling out the cap as a problem, I suggest using copper tubing between the fill neck and the bottom of the coolant bottle. Connect with the minimum amount of rubber tubing to rule out the possibility that the clear tubing you are using isn't collapsing thereby preventing the return of coolant to the block.

Even though you live in a warm climate I would not recommend doing without a thermostat unless it is broken. The thermostat provides some needed back pressure into the system that keeps the front of the engine from running significantly cooler than the rear.
 
Took another look at your photos for clues. Before you try my metal tube idea, try re-routing your coolant recovery hose behind the radiator. I'm thinking it may be getting smashed flat on the radiator support when the hood is closed.

Vapor lock is usually caused by fuel percolation. I see your metal fuel filter laying next to the passage that carries water into the engine. Try to insulate the fuel filter with a couple of pieces of old radiator hose. There's not much room, but if you can bend the metal fuel line away from the water pump and cylinder head, it will help.

Also check when vapor lock has occurred that there is no restriction in the fuel line. I had too much flexible hose between the rear fuel line and the fuel pump on the /6 in my 73. When it got hot it collapsed. The problem was cured when I shortened the hose to account only for a minimal ammount of engine rocking.

Hope this helps.
 
phish1270 said:
When I drive the car & then park it, the next morning the upper hose is collapsed in on itself. If I pop the rad cap, it breaks the vacuum & the hose goes back to form. It is a new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump, new 13 lb rad cap & the car is not over heating although the engine compartment seems hotter than it should be. The air cleaner is almost too hot to touch once the car has been driven a little. I think I may have a circulation problem but I wanted to see if anyone else had seen an upper hose being sucked in. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Here is some information I found on a website called Auto Upkeep. One Q & A pertains to overheating, but could be the cause of your car seeming to be too hot under the hood. Hope it helps.

Radiator Cap Function
Q: What are the symptoms of a bad radiator cap?
A: A radiator cap has several functions. (1) It keeps the cooling system sealed from outside contaminants. (2) By keeping pressure on the cooling system, it raises the boiling point. (3) The radiator cap allows coolant to go to the expansion recovery tank when coolant gets hot, expands, and pressures increase. (4) As the system cools down, it allows coolant to return to the engine from the expansion recovery tank. A bad radiator cap can cause the engine to overheat at lower temperatures. This will cause the coolant to boil over to the expansion tank. A radiator cap that is faulty could also prevent coolant from returning to the engine. This would create a vacuum and cause the radiator hoses to collapse.

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Radiator Cap Pressure
Q: My car was overheating so I changed the thermostat. It is still overheating. The electric fan seems to be engaging and the antifreeze is full. What else should I check?
A: A bad radiator pressure cap could be causing the car to overheat. By keeping pressure on the cooling system, the pressure cap increases the boiling point of the antifreeze. If the pressure cap is not working properly, the engine could overheat.

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Radiator Hose Collapse
Q: What would make a radiator hose to collapse?
A: Radiator hoses commonly have a reinforcing spring inside that helps prevent radiator hoses from collapsing. If this reinforcing spring is faulty or missing, the hose may collapse when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. Another cause could be a faulty radiator cap. A radiator cap works to maintain a constant pressure in the cooling system. As the antifreeze mixture begins to cool after engine shutdown, a vacuum is created. If the pressure cap doesn't equalize this pressure, a radiator hose can collapse. The small vacuum valve in the radiator cap may not be working properly.
 
I Think You Have An Air Lock , It Is The Engine Getting Hotter Than Normal? If It Is ,the Ststem Is Air Locked , Run It At About 1200 Rpm Till The Temp Drops And Then Put The Cap Back On
 
I had the stock 185*thermostat in my Dart and the car ran very, very, warm so I bought one of the Milodon 180* high volume thermostats and it reduced the engine temp by almost twenty degrees.
 
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