used electrical fan

-
You need a relay. I found a whole relay and harness on ebay for $15 that was a GM recall upgrade for some SUV, all in a factory bag. Multiple vendors, so they must have dumped them on the market.

For the same purpose, I got a solid-state relay and connector for a later Mopar minivan. They mount on the steel bumper there. I can use on my minivan it I don't use on another 60's car. I suggest similar, buy one that also fits your modern cars.

To run all the time, have your IGN1 wire (from ballast) actuate the fan relay. That will waste energy and tax your alternator. Better to have a 190 F temp switch in the radiator actuate the relay. Hard to find the right one ~$30. Most $5 ones are for a temp warning and set too high (205 F).
 
Isn't there a simpler way than tearing down my steering colunm to get to the ignition switch. What about NOT using a relay, what difference does it make? Is not uing a relay and only a manual switch not possible? The fan would only be used for city driving, where there is no air movement. I will still be using my other fan.
 
Do you have a shroud on the rad? If not you will probably get as good a result if you add the shroud as compared to the fan. I have a shroud on my Dart and in town I usually do not get above 200 unless I get caught in a lot of traffic. Just a thought.
 
I used a relay activated by an adjustable thermal sensor that goes in the top rad hose.
I ran a power wire (Key on only) from the harness at the bulkhead connector area to activate the thermostatic controller and a fused wire direct from the battery to the fan for a positive.
The relay activates the ground.
It comes on at 210 and shuts off again at 190.

No mechanical fan, just electric puller and it works well.
I'm sure if I had a performance motor it wouldn't be enough airflow, but the way it is I drive it in the summer in AZ.
 
I'm interested as well. I'd like to know what would be adequate to cool a 5.9 Magnum built to around 425 HP.
 
I didn't suggest getting into your ignition switch. I said to use the IGN1 wire at your ballast resistor, which is under the hood. But use this only to actuate a relay. DO NOT try to run your fan off this wire or you will likely melt your bulkhead connector and your key switch, in which case you will be digging into the dreaded steering column.

You can surely install a manual switch from BATT+ thru the firewall to wherever you mount the switch, then back to the fan+ (whichever lead makes it turn the right way) and the fan- to BATT-. You can get a strong BATT+ from the thick wire are the starter relay (on firewall) and use a good ground instead of BATT-. You will have to figure out how to get thru the firewall. Even if you find an unused terminal in your bulkhead connector, I wouldn't use that (might melt). Don't just drill a hole and run a wire thru with no grommet. That is how Jaguar made shoddy cars in the 70's. Now why you would want a human control loop (watch temp gage, flick on fan, look again, flip off) when it can be done simply (even simpler) and cheaply with simple electrical components is our question.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top