v8 kframe vs Schumacher kit

[Jim Lusk]

I was looking over that page and saw the pictures. Does cutting and rewelding the mounts in place hurt the integrity of the motor mounts? Would there be any issues with the new seams coming appart?

j

NOt if they are welded properly. I'm more of a metal melter than welder and I've never had one fail. I do weld both sides and add more material than is probably necessary. The parts in my son's Dart have over 35,000 street miles without an issue at the K-member (low quality clutches are another story, though).

 

[mrtires24]

NOt if they are welded properly. I'm more of a metal melter than welder and I've never had one fail. I do weld both sides and add more material than is probably necessary. The parts in my son's Dart have over 35,000 street miles without an issue at the K-member (low quality clutches are another story, though).

Hey Jim, I meant to thank you for showing me the DC K member mods. I have a K member that I can do it to.

I have to say though, were the heck are you getting a K member for $20? Never mind a 1973-76? There is nothing up here in the junk yards under 1999!!!! once the metal prices rose last year, everything got crushed.

there is a K member with discs on craigslist up here for $500. All I can say is I wish I had your parts selection and prices!

For most people I think that the schumacher mounts will be less work and less expensive in the end.

phil

 

[Jim Lusk]

Recently there has been one more car in one of the local self serve yards. You see, they have a flaw in their pricing of parts and I've never let them in on it. ALL crossmembers are around $18. This is just a BIG one. I've got one spare k-member here and have thought about going down and grabbing that one, but I haven't had any time.

$500 is dreaming, I hope.................

 

[thanson_mopar]

i never had any problems with the mounts, they fit great and make the engine look like it belongs there

 

[67Dart440]

Ok, here's your correction.

Back around 1975 Direct Connection (the predessessor to Mopar Performance) introduced the D.C. k-member to allow easy installation of a big block into an a-body using factory mounts (74-78 factory passenger car big block units). By 1988 there were four left in the original (and only) run. A friend of mine bought one of those four (for WAY TOO MUCH MONEY - just under $400).

I took a look at it and then started looking around the wrecking yards. It turns out that Chrysler sent out a bunch of poorly made 73-76 small block k-members and hed the motor mount saddles cut off and relocated further back. I picked up a k-member and started building my own k-members, even sold a few. Then around 1992 I discovered that the measurements taken from the actual D.C. k-member were incorrect (slightly). I tweaked the measurements I was using and have been using those since.

So, to wind up a long story. Schumacher mounts still require k-member mods and cost around $150. I can go pull a V8 k-member for $20 at the self serve wrecking yards. I have bought mounts for as low as $10 for the pair.

Instructions on how to make your own D.C. k-member are in the tech pages at www.bigblockdart.com.

Hi Jim...

I have read the info on BBD.com but I do not weld... any chance of purchasing one from you??

Thanks!!

 

[homeboysduster]

i'm using a K member from a 318 73 duster. i called ma mopar and the mods i got was to cut the motor mounts loose move them back 1 inck and lower them 3/4 of an inch i then installed my 383 with hooker super comp headers and bought motor mounts for a 76 cordobra with a 400 and it all bolted up like it came from the factory that way!!!!:cheers:

 

[Jim Lusk]

Hi Jim...

I have read the info on BBD.com but I do not weld... any chance of purchasing one from you??

Thanks!!

I've only got one k-member left and, for now anyway, it's being kept as a spare for ?????? Also, due to the time/effort to remove a k-member from the car in the wrecking yard and making the DC k-member I can't/won't beat Schumacher's price for mounts, but I still prefer the DC method. The welding is actually the easy/fun part of building one.

I also didn't weld until a few years ago and I'm still somewhat of a novice. I do fine on things like k-members, but when it comes to the fine art of sheetmetal I'm a bit of a hack.

 

[Derileek]

the direct connection k-frame page on big block dart is a '73 and up. is it the same for a '72 and under? i have a '68 is it the same?

 

[mrtires24]

the direct connection k-frame page on big block dart is a '73 and up. is it the same for a '72 and under? i have a '68 is it the same?

I don't think so, But I am not sure. I know that the 73 and up are a better K frame. I think it would be harders to do the mods on a pre 73.

Phil

 

[Jim Lusk]

The Direct Connection mod is strictly for the 73-76 V8 A-body k-member. Any other k-member can be modified for ANY motor mount and ANY engine, but you're on your own as for what needs to go where.

 

[340duster340]

personally, i like the look of factory parts. but either schumacher or oem will work.

i have 2 of the DC 440 a body k frames, and its a nice way of making the install look factory if that is the look you are going for. if your building a hot rod than just stuff it in there as cheaply as possible as long as it fits right.

 

[68dodge]

Use the Schumacher mounts. The motor will sit right were it should with no quess work. You will only have to make room for the oil pump on the drivers side motor mount on the 71 K-frame.

 

[496dart]

agree--the Schumacher mounts work good, but VERY over priced. I wish i had access to some before i paid $150 for them............they look exactly like factory steel mounts.

If you need a "torque limiter" just make one yourself---super easy and about $8 in parts from home depot.

 

[irricanaman]

I'm in the middle of swapping out my 318 to 440 with all of the schumacher stuff including headers. I was told this would fit in 1974 dart with power steering and brakes and aluminum valve covers. After 4 mechanics and several buddies I have come to the conclusion there is no way to make it fit. So know I have ordered the Altercation front suspension. It's maybe just my car but man has this gotten out of control. I can say though at the end of the day it is going to be sweet though.

 

[demon seed]

I'm in the middle of swapping out my 318 to 440 with all of the schumacher stuff including headers. I was told this would fit in 1974 dart with power steering and brakes and aluminum valve covers. After 4 mechanics and several buddies I have come to the conclusion there is no way to make it fit. So know I have ordered the Altercation front suspension. It's maybe just my car but man has this gotten out of control. I can say though at the end of the day it is going to be sweet though.

First you'll need to modify the passenger side aluminum valve cover to clear the heater motor or go with the stock valve covers. Second you'll sometimes need the offset brake booster on the drivers side or just do what most do and go with manual brakes with discs up front. Are you running an auto or manual tranny.

 

[Jim Lusk]

The AlterKtion isn't going to change the correct location of the motor, just change the location of the steering. Now, don't get me wrong, it's a good product, but throwing money and "mechanics" at this sort of project is only going to empty your wallet. None of this is rocket science, but the average mechanic just fixes stuff.

The first thing in building a big block a-body is to completely gut the engine compartment (keeping the steering gear in location is ok). The heater should out of the way and the master cylinder on the bench. You do need to have the cross firewall brake line in place, though. The steering column needs to be out, too. This is true whether you use the AlterKtion or modified stock k-member. This makes a great time to paint, which is what I'm waiting on to get my Barracuda done.

 

[blasphemous]

Does anyone have a picture of how to install the spool type Schumacher mounts for a /6 to BB? I have the mounts that are pictured on the Schumacher website (73 Scamp, /6 to big block) but for the life of me I can't orientate them to fit. Actually, I can only get them to fit one way and they're too wide and don't line up front to back either.