vacumn ?

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ddettloff

ddettloff

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Ok I am running a 318 mild port heads, headers, eldebrock ol torker single plane intake with 600 cfm eddy carb.
When I put foot in it vac on performance gauge goes to 0 and get misfire at 3500 to top end.
Timing set at 13 btdc
When I keep performance gauge at 4 to 5 and accelerate slow no missing happening.
Is this a issue with the secondaries ?:banghead:
 
A Torker is not a good choice for a mild small port 318, nothing to do with your problem

A vacuum gauge will normally go to or very close to zero when the throttle is floored.

You have a choice---this could be a fuel problem or an ignition problem.
 
Have replaced wires distributor,have the gold box all grounds checked 3 times or more this one is making me nuts also new plugs
 
You said you're misfiring at 3500 and above. Are you sure you're misfiring, As in not spark? ...or spark at the wrong time?
 
First off, I do agree with Del that a single plane aint the best in the world for your combo, BUT, if I was gonna run one, that would be it. They give up a lot less down low than most other single planes. Your problem though aint the intake, so lets forget about that.

You got the Mopar Performance Gold box? Did I read that right? That right there could be your problem. The gold box is WAY too hot for a street car. It's probably burning itself up. They are NOT made for prolonged running. They are that hot. They are made for, you know, 1320 feet at the time and then shut off. First thing I would do would be put a Standard Ignition LX101 on it. Not a Wells or any other autozone bullshit, but STANDARD.
 
It only will do this at wide open throttle press pedal 3/4 way down no problem floor it and sputter city.
 
Try the LX101 box. It's a cheap enough guess, plus you need to replace the gold box anyway.
 
ddettloff said:
It only will do this at wide open throttle press pedal 3/4 way down no problem floor it and sputter city.
Click to expand...

As the firing compression rises the spark can get "blown out" meaning the spark does not jump the gap of the plug any more, so it still could be the ignition box as RustyRatRod mentioned.

Remember, when electronics get hot they lose integrity.
 
67Dart273 said:
Based on what??
Click to expand...

Based on the average distributor hitting a reasonable advance of the low 30s at higher RPMs. That's why I asked what his total timing was, as this is the most important timing number - which I know you already know.:prayer:
 
68gtxman said:
Based on the average distributor hitting a reasonable advance of the low 30s at higher RPMs. That's why I asked what his total timing was, as this is the most important timing number - which I know you already know.:prayer:
Click to expand...

True, but since neither of us know whether he has a factory distributor, or what the curve is, one guess is nor better than the other.

I WILL agree that determining what the timing is doing, at BOTH ends would be a good step.

These types of problems can be difficult, though. ANY problem, or sum of problems, that can cause reduced spark could cause this sort of thing. Anything from poor primary supply voltage, to something as simple as a bad coil wire.

And it could be a fuel problem.
 
Got it solved, carb problem the eddy has the weighted butterfly in the secondary system it was not opening once opened no sputter .Had to have been restricted air flow into the secondary system bogging it down. runs great now
 
I hope you carry a spare ignition box. lol
 
It was stuck strange the carb is only 5 months old. And upon advise after I ran car and it was fine I did go get a new box changing it out tonight thanks for the heads up on that.
 
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