Valve cover bolts

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Riddler

Riddler

Project EH-Body
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My 06 Hemi has huge studs all the way around on my valve covers. I know I'll need one stud for the milodon dipstick after I shorten it.

Anyone find another bolt that looks better than these huge studs. How's about grinding them down and painting them.

Riddler
 
Grind them down, I think they needed so many for wiring harness holdowns and engine covers they just made them ALL double ended. If it wasnt for the funky bolt grommet I would pitch them too.
 
In looking at them I think they are the same design as neon bolts with grommets. I use to take the grommets off and use button head stainless bolts in them. I think I might try and do the same. Or try maybe just regular bolts.

Riddler
 
I cut them off flush - EXCEPT for:
- the ones that are used to secure the stock coil covers in place
- the one for the dipstick, which I shortened
- a couple on the pass side that I used to secure wiring in place for the cam sensor

NOTE: Some are actually threaded (metric) but others look like real threads but they are not!
Jim
 

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They're metric fasteners. Any hardware store should have bolts that you could replace them with, the only concern is that if you take stuff apart often you could wear out the threaded holes in the head.

You could buy some stainless threaded rod and cut it down then put a nice stainless cap screw on it if you were so inclined.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Just order up a bunch of new bolts to an Eagle 5.7 Most are just a nice, regular (metric) bolt head. There's only a few on the engine that have the stud extention. The new ones come with the washer and grommet.
 
I cut and grinded them down. Look just like regular bolts now.

Joe Dokes - What are you talking about them wearing out the threaded holes? Maybe after a new hundred times. Also these are bolts but have a threaded top for other accessories. If someone were to use threaded rod, it'd be even harder to put the covers on. Plus you need the rubber/washer part to hold the cover down.

Riddler
 
Riddler,

I've found that when threading a steel bolt into threaded aluminum it is quite easy to over torque the bolt, and after a few times putting something together and taking it apart the threaded holes can show considerable wear. If you show the slightest bit of care in your torque it isn't an issue, but if you get a little aggressive it is pretty easy to strip the threaded holes.

I use to do quite a bit of work on air cooled VWs, and with their magnesium case it was always better to use studs to help preserve the threads in magnesium. I don't know how many oil screen covers that I had to heli-coil because the holes became stripped out over time.

As a result, I would typically blue loctite studs whenever possible.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
They also have built in "stops" or shoulders on them to prevent over tightening the VC's. That's another reason im keeping them.
 
Found another nice little tidbit about these stupid things, I am trying to fasten a fuel line clamp to the remaining stud these have and it is 6mm LEFT hand friggin thread! Thanks to whoever came up with that genius idea....
 
72BBSwinger said:
Found another nice little tidbit about these stupid things, I am trying to fasten a fuel line clamp to the remaining stud these have and it is 6mm LEFT hand friggin thread! Thanks to whoever came up with that genius idea....
Click to expand...

Are you sure? I had a bare head in my garage and don't recall them being left-hand-thread. I do know they ARE metric.

Why would they use left hand thread? This simply doesn't make any sense.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
The heads are not left hand thread. The actual top of the stud is. I cut all mine down. My plan is a quick coat of paint to keep them nice.

Riddler
 
Joe Dokes said:
Are you sure? I had a bare head in my garage and don't recall them being left-hand-thread. I do know they ARE metric.

Why would they use left hand thread? This simply doesn't make any sense.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...
Because they were never intended to have nuts, only plastic retainers for the injector loom and the engine covers.
 
On my 6.1, some have a metric right hand thread and others are just a straight cut (which are used for the push-on plastic retainers)
 
72BBSwinger said:
Mine are all un-threadable.
Click to expand...

Huh? So they are studs with metric threads into the heads and then simply bare dowl stock? In which the nut is forced on?

Or is there threads for the nuts, then a bare dowl for which a plastic connector is forced on sto secure the wiring harness and other stuff?

Just curious not saying your wrong.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
There are threads that are there, but they are either straight or left handed for which there are no nuts available. See pic, my VC bolts are doing a good job holding the VC's but the remaining stud is worthless other for the plastic retainers that can slide on them.
 
Joe Dokes said:
Riddler,

I've found that when threading a steel bolt into threaded aluminum it is quite easy to over torque the bolt, and after a few times putting something together and taking it apart the threaded holes can show considerable wear. If you show the slightest bit of care in your torque it isn't an issue, but if you get a little aggressive it is pretty easy to strip the threaded holes.

I use to do quite a bit of work on air cooled VWs, and with their magnesium case it was always better to use studs to help preserve the threads in magnesium. I don't know how many oil screen covers that I had to heli-coil because the holes became stripped out over time.

As a result, I would typically blue loctite studs whenever possible.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

Very sound advice based on exoerience Paul.
 
I use a nut to hold down the dip stick bracket on one of the lower left side vc studs.....its right hand thread.

Curiouser and curiouser.....

 
Take off the bottom sleeve of the studs that insert into the bole of the covers. Go to the hardware store and get allen headed bolts and washers and your done. Leave a stud or two as needed for harness etc.. much cleaner looking.
 
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