Valve cover torque specs

-
7dswinger

7dswinger

MOPAR's rule
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
382
Reaction score
3
Location
California
I'm about to replace the valve cover gaskets but I can't find how tight I should torque the bolts down to. Some places say 36 in/lb's, one even said 6 ft/lbs and every where in-between. Also the gaskets I got have a completely flat side and then the other side is flat onto with rounded sides, I'm guessing the side with rounded edges is the top side, am I right? Thanks
 
Rounded side up normally. Just snug up the bolts (or better yet, replace the bolts with studs and nuts from the local hardware store).

Important thing is not to crush the gasket around the bolt holes.

I have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on valve cover bolts.
 
Do you have stock or aftermarket valve covers?

Reason I ask is the stock ones are stamped steel (thin) and aftermarkets are aluminum (thick) so you can tighten them more. A little loose is better than to tight on each type. I have Mopar Performance aluminum and use 75 inch pounds. 36 in lbs sounds about right for stock. I assume you have thrown the cork type gaskets away......... haven't you? lol
 
The cork gaskets are the one's that are on there currently, haven't replaced them yet but they've degraded. I went to the hardware store and picked up some 1/4-20 bolts for it instead of the weird things that were on there (4 inch tall polls that you take off with these wing nut looking things), half of them are stripped on the top so you have to use channel locks to get them off....... Couldn't find studs at Lows but I wanted to get rid of the current method as I've got allot of driving to do next week.

Ya I haven't seen anyone use a torque wrench on them either which is why I'm asking as 6 ft/lbs seems like a bit too much.

The current valve covers are aftermarket but their stamped thing gauge sheet metal. When I get the money I want to get a set of Mopar Performance ones.
 
After wrenching on things for a few years, you kinda learn how "tight enough" for certain sizes of fasteners is. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 6 inch extension, slight resistance at the wrist when tight, give a touch more if ur not sure. They will be good. No need for torque wrench...

hope this makes sense...lol
 
I always start in the middle of the valve cover and work myself out to each end using a torque wrench. I do this three times until reaching final torque spec. Once the engine has gone through some heat cycles torque them once more to spec. They will need to be tightened. I have never seen it where they haven't needed tightened up some. I tried something a little different last time. Once my engine went through some heat cycles I removed the bolts one at a time and put some thread locker on them then torqued them to spec. For some reason the ARP valve cover bolts I was using kept backing off but after I added thread locker they have stayed torqued.
 
Replaced them today and I can't get the driver's side one to stop leaking oil by the fire wall. I've taken it off and re-did it already. It's a small leak but a leak non the less that I didn't have before. How can I stop it from leaking, can't figure it out.
 
I"ll look into seeing if the covers are bent. The bolt holes in them were bent down and I pushed them flat again. If I can't get these to work I'll check those out. I've heard Fel-Pro isn't very good but I haven't messed with gaskets too much.
 
I know this is super old by now...but I've had the same thing when bolting these (cast alm valve cvrs) to an Edelbrock performer (or similar) - you MUST file a relief in the valve cover near the intake manifold runners. Some more than others, some so little it will feel "ok" when bolting down. A tiny gap is enough. I first discovered this via a flash fire on the header from oil hitting it.
I said file for a reason - you run the risk of an uneven and/or too deep cut with a power tool. A large file is great for this, as you can easily control the profile and depth of the cut.
I've heard of, but have never had to do, double cork gasket helping with this.
 
First is to remove all oil from the v-cover and head sealing surface. Clean is important. Alcohol or acetone makes this fairly easy.
I like to glue the gaskets to the covers with high heat silicone and let them cure. The orange stuff is what I use since my engines are painted orange.
Though I know it is not always necessary I spread a very very thin skim of sealant over the head sealing side of gasket also right before setting them in place.
I never concerned myself with a torque spec. Its more of feeling the gasket compress just slightly and evenly.
Let cure, and slightly crush them down just a bit more.
You will be able to remove your covers and reinstall them when needed without replacing the gaskets many times. This does work better on the ridgid cast aluminum covers than stamped steel. I have good results with the thick cork gaskets on iron heads.
Great sealing method for covers that are removed to adjust lash on adjustable rockers when needed.
It takes a little care and more time initially but I've never had to redo them over oil leaks. Some headers are bad about burning gaskets up. That has been my
main reason for having to replace v-cover gaskets every so often.
 
ssba said:
First is to remove all oil from the v-cover and head sealing surface. Clean is important. Alcohol or acetone makes this fairly easy.
I like to glue the gaskets to the covers with high heat silicone and let them cure. The orange stuff is what I use since my engines are painted orange.
Though I know it is not always necessary I spread a very very thin skim of sealant over the head sealing side of gasket also right before setting them in place.
I never concerned myself with a torque spec. Its more of feeling the gasket compress just slightly and evenly.
Let cure, and slightly crush them down just a bit more.
You will be able to remove your covers and reinstall them when needed without replacing the gaskets many times. This does work better on the ridgid cast aluminum covers than stamped steel. I have good results with the thick cork gaskets on iron heads.
Great sealing method for covers that are removed to adjust lash on adjustable rockers when needed.
It takes a little care and more time initially but I've never had to redo them over oil leaks. Some headers are bad about burning gaskets up. That has been my
main reason for having to replace v-cover gaskets every so often.
Click to expand...

Ditto on all this. I currently use a thin coat of engine oil on the head side, though I've done both ways, and dry, with success (head side).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top