Valvetrain complete, but a few ???'s

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superdart

superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
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Finally got a chance to get my valvetrain back together.

273 rocker arms (slightly clearanced for valve springs)
Mopar Chrome rocker shafts
Mopar adjustable rocker hardware
Crane pushrods

This is the first time I have EVER set up adjustable rockers. I'm not sure I got it 100%..I followed the instructions as per Racer Browns website. At startup they make just a little bit of noise, but once it warms up it sounds good. I've been told it is better to err on the side on conservatism, and it's OK this way (maybe even normal), than the alternative of being too tight and damaging something.

Is this true? Or should I readjust the rockers with just a bit more preload on them? I set them to the point where there was just barely no verticle movement in the pushrod, then gave it another 1/2 turn on the adjuster.

I will say that even cold it starts WAY easier (like immediately) when I hit the key. In the past the first start of the day was always a bit harder to start.

Also I have an oiling question: I installed an Amsoil bypass oil kit (remote mount) on my car. Now when I first start it, there is no oil pressure for a few seconds, and you can DEFINATELY hear it. I am pretty sure it is due to some of the oil draining back in to the pan. One friend recommended I just put in a crank switch to spin the motor prior to starting to build up oil pressure. This would be easy, but would I be better off installing a check valve on my oil line to prevent the oil from draining back through the oil pump to the pan?

Just want to make sure I'm doing it right.
 
Well thats how I adjusted my vavles but I went 1/4-1/2 a turn. Its been fine for a thousand miles now. On your filter IDK, but its not good it sounds like. Can you call the manufactor up and ask them?
 
Don't know if they can help me. I'm a dealer and have installed several of these kits with no issues. This is the first one that is mounted ABOVE the stock oil filter mount. I incorporated an incline in the hose to mitigate drainback, but apparently the little bit of oil that IS draining back is enough to cause an absence of oil pressure (for about 2 seconds).

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There is someting you can get to pre lube the motor before you start or even turn it over. Its called a oil accumulator, Moroso makes them, they have a 1 & a half quart and a 3 quart ones.It provides oil preessure if it drops like during hard acceleration, but the part about it that you want is it has a cold start valve that will presurre the oil before you crank it. Think you need to pop the hood open and open a valve on top of it. Jegs and Summit racing both have it, Not too much $ either. Might want to check it out.
 
Yeah, I had thought about that too. Amsoil sells one that is electrically activated (and being a dealer I can get a discount) but I am looking at all possibilities.
 
Sounds like the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter is not working properly. Change your oil filter to the NAPA brand and your problems will most likely cease.
 
You are better runing a smaller fliter and changing it more than having no oil pressure at startup when it's cold. In one case, I run the 2.2L size oil filter. It's very easy to grab. But it needs to be changed often, or the vehicle should be limited to low miles with it tho. (it's in my plow truck...)
 
I Have The Same Deal With My 318 In My Duster With 80,000 Miles. Good Oil Pressure Any Other Time, But For The First Two Seconds On Start Up In The Morning, It Has No Pressure. I Can Hear The Valvetrain Clatter, But Immediately After That, It Gains Full Pressure And Is Fine. I Run A K&n Filter, Which Is Supposed To Be Good, But Maybe Not. It Seems To Be A Drainback Issue. I Run Valvoline Vr1 20w50, As I Live In Cali And It Never Gets Cold.
 
moper said:
You are better runing a smaller fliter and changing it more than having no oil pressure at startup when it's cold. In one case, I run the 2.2L size oil filter. It's very easy to grab. But it needs to be changed often, or the vehicle should be limited to low miles with it tho. (it's in my plow truck...)
Click to expand...
Absolutely, get that darn thing off there and put the stock type filter back on. I have been around amsoil distributors since the early 80's and have seen those setups kill more motors than do any good. No sense having clean oil if it's not getting to the motor.
 
The issue isn't the drainback valve in the filter. The filter is mounted completely vertical..it can't drain back.

I AM an Amsoil dealer, and have been using these kits for quite some time with very good results. If someone has issues with it, it wasn't being used properly.

As you can see the filters are mounted verticle. The input line comes from the block, passes through the filters, and on to the B&M cooler mounted at the bottom right of the core support. The return line goes from the cooler back to the block (it is dressed up now, and lies against the inner fender. Just to the right of the pic the line inclines up to keep the oil in the mount, then turns down to the block. the only issue that is present is the 12" or so of line between the block and the curve that can drain back in to the pan. When running I have very good pressure.
 
It is syphoning back like syphoning gas out of a gas tank. It will pull the oil right out of the filter if it is allowed to. Amsoil like 99% of the other synthetic oils are the best oils you can use. If you are using a good quality oil and you motor is sealed tight and are using good filtering breathers you don't need that much filter. As for the oil cooler unless you are in a road racing or building a lot heat in your motor you don't need it either. Besides we both know that synthetic oils can handle a much higher level of heat than petroleum based oils can. Warm/hot oils as long as they have not broken down from the heat lubricate better than cool/cold oils. Warm/hot oils also flow thru filters better. But if you are adament that you need this setup what you need is a pressure bypass in the pressure line from the block that will send oil to the motor first then at a given pressure will send the oil to the filters and cooler. Eventually all of the oil will pass thru the filters so it will clean your oil just fine.
 
Well, I knew when I was installing the oil kit that it was overkill. I prefer the cooler because, well, this is Texas. I figure the oil cooler will help move some extra heat out of the engine to help the radiator system in our ridiculous summer heat.

I am not planning on spending large amounts of cash to rememdy the problem. If it is not simple/easy/reasonable fix, then it will have to go.
 
I know what you mean, in most cases to have something that is overkill or more than you need doesn't or shouldn't hurt, like I have been known to say, "you can't have to much money or horsepower". This is one of those exceptions to the rule and the main reason it does not work well is because of the wet sump oil pump. The oil has to travel the length of all that hose until it reaches the motor and by looking at your setup it looks like about 10-12 ft of hose alone. The ideal setup is to have it pass thru the filters and last the cooler after it has gone thru the motor. This is exactly what happens with a dry sump setup. This won't work with a wet sump because the return is all of the oil bleeding back to the pan thru all of the clearances. If you could put your filter and cooler at or below the oil level you would be fine on the drain back but would still have to push the oil thru all of the lines.

If you want the added cooling you can probably keep the oil cooler because it looks like it is about oil level height.
 
Hmm...other than the drainback issue it "shouldn't" be an issue, as this is how the kit was deisgned to be used. I have had one on my ram for nearly 100K miles with no issues.

There is 8.5' of line total (it's a little decieving). I still have excellent oil pressure when running, in the past Amsoil technical has been very helpful with a few "creative" installtions I have. I'm going to take a few pics and email them to one of the reps I spoke with today.

Over the holiday weekend I'll see if I can't figure out a lower point to mount the kit.
 
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