Last month we took the scamp to Spokane for some no prep racing and this weekend we are doing it again. Here is a video of the previous race. This is a street/hot rod and occasional racecar. Full interior but a stroked 440. Last year dynoed at 409 to the rear wheels and some tweaks sere made to increase that but no retesting on the dyno. It is not a full race setup and has 1.03 PST torsion bars. I did install Viking dual adjustable shocks all around and set them in the middle of the recommended settings for drag racing. Front C15, R2. Rear C2 and R7. Based on what you see in the race, any need to change the settings. This no-prep track will be warm, 90+ degrees in the evening. MT ET street SS radials with 727 transmission. Unfortunately only 3200 stall hughes converter, 3.91 gears. This pass was just with a small amount of burnout and only 1800 rpm at launch. Given that the conditions will be the same, do you have any suggestions for changing anything? (except the TC).
Viking settings and other Questions
- Thread starter Kent mosby
- Start date
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71Demon528
Well-Known Member
Being on a no prep surface with a radial tire, only thing I would think to change is loosening the rear rebound, and tightening the compression. That will allow the cars rear suspension to separate harder driving the tire into the pavement, and stay planted with the tighten compression settings. I’m not sure what your normal 60’ times are, but it seemed to me the car left pretty well and I only heard a little tire screech for a small second. I’m no expert but I run Viking shocks as well all the way around and I’m just regurgitating what I’ve read on the instructions. I do run a big slick opposed to a radial so I may be 100% off on this, but I believe the principles stay the same. Radials just don’t recover once they go into a tire spin where a slick can. There’s a guy on YouTube who does tons of suspension tuning videos and breaks it down very simple for people to understand. He has no prep tuning videos that may benefit you and help answer your question.
Kevin Wilson SBC is who I’m referring to.
Check him out
Kevin Wilson SBC is who I’m referring to.
Check him out
My suggestion would be to buy this book:
Step by step approach, this book has helped me tremendously in getting my van to hook and launch consistently. Having something like this or similar as an additional guide at your disposal along with other sources, advice etc along with having someone slow motion video your launches Will get you there much quicker. I’m sure you know there is no one-size-fits-all or ideal setting. Way too many variables. You’ve got to do many test and tunes, one thing at a time.
Step by step approach, this book has helped me tremendously in getting my van to hook and launch consistently. Having something like this or similar as an additional guide at your disposal along with other sources, advice etc along with having someone slow motion video your launches Will get you there much quicker. I’m sure you know there is no one-size-fits-all or ideal setting. Way too many variables. You’ve got to do many test and tunes, one thing at a time.
I'm running the Viking Warrior DA shocks on all 4 corners of my Barracuda pictured below. I also have Caltrac Mono Leafs springs, and Smith Racecraft Assassin Traction Bars. (440+727+ S-60 with 3.73 gears) My car weighs 3670 with me in it. I'm running Hoosier drag radials. My best ET and 60ft so far: [email protected] 60ft: 1.49
My current shock settings for the strip are right from the Viking instructions:
Front: 12 compression ; 0 rebound
Rear: 6 compression ; 2 rebound
I'm still tuning and playing with this car and combo, and expect to get it into the 11.0s or high tens by the end of the season.
My current shock settings for the strip are right from the Viking instructions:
Front: 12 compression ; 0 rebound
Rear: 6 compression ; 2 rebound
I'm still tuning and playing with this car and combo, and expect to get it into the 11.0s or high tens by the end of the season.
Track was very slippery today. Many cars had to shut it down or get off the throttle because things got squirrelly. We ended up slower ET but faster trap speed. Also the 60 ft sensor was not working but it didn't matter with 95* heat and no prep. Fastest was a 12.5 but at 114. and change, I ran 20 psi and made some adjustments to compression and rebound according to recommendations but due to conditions I am not sure what to make of it. I will review all time slips and datalogs from the efi later. Time for sleep
With a 114 mph trap speed, I think you should be in the 11's. This is based upon the progression of getting my car sorted out over the last two seasons. The 60ft improvement will make a huge difference, but also make sure your fuel tune isnt too rich. A too fat mix will make the car lazy.
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