Voltage Issues

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71Duster

71Duster

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I have problems with lights and all other electrical eqipment in the car not receiveign a consistant voltage, the stock radio will get louder with voltage the lights will dim and get brighter etc.

The car has a new alternation and voltage regulator. When the engine bay was repainted all wires where cleaned and any repairs soldered and shrink wrapped.

Any ideas?
 
If the headlights blare up with acceleration after the system voltage regulater has been replaced... bypass the amp gauge.
 
The amp gauge doesn't seem "notice" the fluctuation as badly.

When the cluster was rebuilt all the guages where calabrated and serviced.

If I bypass it what can I do in it's place seeing how its a dead guage then? I know I can plumb in an aftermarket voltage guage but can anything be done to convert the amp guage?

Also where is the best place to by pass at? Under the hood or the dash?
 
Bypass the amp gauge by connecting the 2 wire terminals (back of the gauge)together with a small nut and bolt. Tape it good. This is suggested only to determine if the gauge is the problem. Common cause of weak electrical system.
 
Hello,
i had the same problem on my car and its probebly the alternator i had a new one too and i tested 3 voltreg and the problem was still there.so i got an old alternator on the yunkyard and the problem was gone.
see the link for more infohttp://www.mymopar.com/dimlights.htm
 
Flipping pages in the last mopar action they talk about bypassing the amp guage mostly for the fact that the bulkhead connectors suck.

I can run a paralel circuit from the alt output stud to the battery stud on the starter relay which negates the amp guage.

I'll try this first with a heavy jumper wire and if no go maybe a new alternator.
 
Its definitely not the voltage limiter, that provides a 5 volt source to run the gauges and has nothing to do with the rest of the electrical system. I also doubt that it would be the amp gauge unless it has an intermittent open circuit internally. If that was the case then the fix is tor replace the Amp gauge.

My first suggestion would be to check for good clean connections in the bulked connector on the firewall. Make sure there is a good solid ground strap between the block and the body. Check that the voltage regulator is mounted to the body solidly and has a good ground connection.

If this does not fix your problems you need to check the voltage across the battery (with the engine running) and the voltage at the output terminal of the alternator and at the power source to the voltage regulator. If there is more than 1/2 volt difference from the battery reading you have wiring issues (bad/dirty connections, damaged wires, etc).

Just because the alternator and voltage regulator are new does not mean they couldn't be bad. An intermittent diode in the alternator could very easily cause the issues you are seeing.
 
My quick guess would be a bad ground on the voltage regulator - the ground is provided by the two mounting screws that hold the regulator against the firewall (assuming you have a stock style setup). Make sure you scrape some of the fancy new paint away from the mounting screw on the firewall and also on the regulator. If you do not want to scrape the firewall, make a new wire ground strap and attach it from the regulator to a good ground location, like the engine ground to firewall connection - you do have the engine to firewall ground strap attached right? (chuckle).

You gotta love mopar electrics, bulkhead connectors and ammeters suck (smile).

John P.
www.UsCarTool.com - Mopar resto and Fabrication, we don't scare easy.
919-855-8200
 
It had the same issue with the old voltage regulator as well, it's all a stock style chargeing system with a reman bosch alternator. I'll try a few of these things like a better ground for the regulator.

I know I need to test and see what my actual output is just been busy. The posative and negative cables are all new and the ground strap from the block to body is a healthy size.

The bulkhead connectors are all clean and I made sure to put a little di-electric in the cavitys as well.

I always remember my dads ford truck dieing on the road when the ammeter crapped out.
 
Well with the battery surface charge pulled down the battery sits at a healthy 12.6 volts

Running at idle it's 14V and at 2000rpm its 15volts.

If anything its a little on on the high side. Both voltage regulators are the same and ungrounded it'll drop to 12-13volts so it's not a ground issue.

Sort of back to square one now.
 
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