Voltage Regulator - electronic ignition

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chachi

chachi

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Hey guys,

Well today was the last day i took my project (68 Dart) out for a spin before she mostly hibernates for the winter. I figure over the winter months, i will work on electrical and some more body work.

I have a question regarding Voltage Regulators. I will be changing her over from points to electronic distributor and was told i have to change over my voltage regulator. The one in the car right now is just a black box with nothing written on it. A guy in my area was parting out his 68 Dart and gave me a regulator. It also is a black box but has "IGN" and "FLD" on it.

Is this the correct one for me to use? Is there any way to test it to make sure it works, or are these things bullet proof?

I attached pix of the regulator

Thanks in advance for any feedback

CIMG0087.jpg


CIMG0111.jpg


CIMG0112.jpg
 
Both those pictures are of mechanical points regulators.

It's not really necessary to use an electronic regulator but they do work better and are cheap. Go to Autozone and get a #VR706 regulator. Could be under the Wells name or Duralast or another house brand. It will have the same connections but the can will only be 1/2" high. This unit has solid state guts.
 
There are also correct appearing solid state versions of what you have now.

Best option would be to swap to the 70-up regulator and double field (squareback alternator). Requires a bit of wiring, but you can bash any 70-up harness for the wires and connectors.
 
Are you sure? as I seem to recall, the older mech alternator was a one wire, compared to 2 wire (70 up) Electronic regulator with different alternator.
 
I was told the solid state regulators are better for my Pertronix setup.
A simple and inexpensive change, and the old one's in the trunk as a spare.
 
RonnyB said:
I was told the solid state regulators are better for my Pertronix setup.
A simple and inexpensive change, and the old one's in the trunk as a spare.
Click to expand...
Yep, but is your wiring for 1 wire, or 2 wire?
Madelectric may have diagram.
 
so are you guys saying that i don't necessarily have to change out my regulator right now when i change to the electronic distributor? I can keep the one in there right now?
 
If I were you I would change everything at the same time. Changing the regulator to the new style is a snap, just pirate the new style connector from a junk harness and splice into your existing harness. The wires are even the same color. Then all you need to do is add a second field wire from the alternator and run it to the field wire in your splice (the green wire). Slap on your new dual field alternator and head on down the road. Follow the instructions included in the new electronic distributor to hook up the ECU and harness, thats a snap too. Good luck with your project, and let me say that the added electronic system will be a big plus to your car!!! Geof
 
To use both fields of the squareback alternator, you will need to run a second wire to the later type regulator. My suggestion of bashing a later harness meant removing both alternator wires complete with factory terminals from a later harness and installing in your harness. Minimal wire cutting, mostly electrical tape.
 
Your original charging system had 36 or 42 amps maximum. That was plenty when the car was new. Over time the resistance in the wire and connectors changes, thus the classic symptoms, headlights dim at idle, etc..
To upgrade to a 60 amp altenater will throw higher current and cause more heat which changes the resistance. So the connections will get better or worse.
I dont know what coil is used with the petronics ignition. The stock coil requires only 7 volts in run so even a weak charging system will cover it.
If you intend to add other electronics like sterio, whatever, you should upgrade the charging system for those.
 
dgc333 is correct get the vr706 reg, its like $15, this will give you a steady voltage without the bouncy amp needle. i did this on my 68 rr + i removed the small cover and placed the old style cover over the new SS unit & Also had some stickers made to look like the original print on the cover. BTW i have a few stickers left if anyone would want one, just PM me.

Road Runner 035.jpg
 
I would not run a mechanical regulator with any electronic distributor due to potential voltage spikes from the mechanical regulator.

The newer style alternators do not use dual fields, there is still only one field winding, it's just not grounded internally and requires a newer style regulator wired correctly to make it work. They are better than the old system but it requires a bit of work on your part. As stated above, the dgc333 is a good way to go with the least hassle on your part if all you require is a low amperage output.
 
All

I'm upgrading to Electronic Igination (273 (67)) , can I use VR706 and put the old regualator cover on it?

Bear
 
good post... may i add a question,

i have a 273 67 dart .. upgrading to the pertronix II and will be geting a new cap,ballast and regulator..
now i have a point dizzy that I just got rebuilt,the problem that im having is that i keep on burning the points and it misfires alot. i have msd wires and coil and this be the problem?the msd coil is a blaster2 and is rated at 45,000 volts. the plugs are 35' gap.
also thinking of getting the dizzy advance weight springs and the advance curve kit. any one try this set up ???
 
For the best Chrysler Ign kit talk to Don at FBO.
Even though your car wont rev to 8000rpm his system will, without a hickup.
Puts pertronix to shame, and I was a Pertronix advocate.

He has a complete system for your car, with all the compatible pieces, at a very affordible price. The guy knows his stuff.

Do it right, do it once. You wont be sorry. Give him a call.

www.4secondsflat.com
 
thanks johny..
i happen to speak with don and yes don knows mopars.i was very happy with this advice and will be looking into fabo.
 
RonnyB said:
I was told the solid state regulators are better for my Pertronix setup.
A simple and inexpensive change, and the old one's in the trunk as a spare.
Click to expand...
You are correct. If you go back to the conversion instructions for electronic they suggest a solid state replacement. It was blue looked like the newer version but had the older connections. You should change to solid state. I think mother mopar still sells these. If not follow the lead to auto zone. Steve
 
aslo i was setting the timing to about 5' and got shock when moving the cap on the rotor,any advice why this happened and can be the the cap on the rotor is a little loose
 
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