Many, if not all of Caesar Milans training tips are spot on. Being a former police K9 handler I was trained with some of his techniques. We used a regular choker, make sure for sizing its 2 - 3" larger than his neck measurement. There are only 2 ways to place a choker on your dog's neck, the right way & the wrong way. The wrong way may / will injury your dog's neck over a period of time. For 2 reasons, 1.) it crushes the larynx. 2.) the choke motion is in effective and the person handling the dog will keep pulling on the leash harder because the dog is non-responsive to the correction thus causing #1.
Proper placement is as follows:
A. pick a side you want to stay at your side when you walk him.
B. If you pick , dog on left side, make sure you do the following...the choker chain extending thru the hole should form the letter "P" so "1 & 2" does not occur. This will give the proper correction.
C. The correction is not meant to "choke" the dog but to startle him and teach him that his thought not action is incorrect.
D. Do not place the choker directly behind the ears as this is a very sensitive area and meant for advanced corrections for "hard nosed" dogs and you should have someone show you this technique
...What does thought vs action mean....
You want to correct the dogs state of mind before he does the bad act.
Watch your dogs breathing, his focus. When these change its time for a correction, not after he bolts towards a rabbit or squirrel but when his ears perk up or breathing stops or elevates, etc...and sees the rabbit its time for a correction. The correction is simultaneously stating "NO" with a deep tone that you do not use regularly and a quick jerk to the right side, almost paraellel to the ground if you are walking your dog on your left side... How hard of quick jerk depends upon if you stimulated a correction.
Feel free to PM me your cell # if you prefer to discuss.
I am not a professional canine trainer but just a former Police K9 handler with a little more training than the average person.
