j par
Well-hung Member
Oh crap Canada! I forgot turn my phone sideways and see where this car is.... Yep shipping is a killer....
Warpage
- Thread starter dart swanger
- Start date
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dart swanger
Well-Known Member
So here some update pics from my disaster.
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
Guy is no longer working on the car...thank god. Still waves in the panel and he rounded off the midway body line at the door jam almost flat. Guess i have to replace the whole panel again.
Hard to tell in the pictures, but it does look somewhat better. My 70 Dart Custom had the same problem with the midway body line on the passenger side, but it was due to a bad panel, unfortunately my body man was in a real time crunch and elected not to tell me how bad it was, just installed it as is, always kinda bugged me, at least I didn't have to look at it every time I got in the car.
A good body man can make those quarters look nice again. Just takes patience and not being in a hurry.
Most Street Rod cars are bondo from front to rear, and they make them look like a jewel when they get done.
Most Street Rod cars are bondo from front to rear, and they make them look like a jewel when they get done.
I watched my guy fix a body line, used masking tape as a guide.
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
Just don't think $2500 of work was done to my car. Chaps my *** and my trust in people.
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
Plus I bought all good panels for the job.
I don't think you got anywhere close to your money's worth. Maybe $1000.00 worth? Even then, IDK what the cost of doing a 1/4 panel is today, I know when I had mine done it was around $400.0/side.
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
Gonna start practicing my welds...cause im gonna tackle the passenger side.
j par
Well-hung Member
Again I recommend the whole quarter panel...road trip...
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
I already own the quarter skin..lol. Road trip would be nice though.
GOOD GOD! That's wire for 3/8" steel plate. Should be using like .023 or even smaller.
not to highjack, but what do you put on them to make them stay that way?
I think that's a good idea.
Use the edge step down tool on your existing quarter panel. This gives a place to set the new quarter panel down into and gives the weld area way more strength to keep it from warping the rest of the already straight quarter panel.
@ragtopfury used the stepping edge tool on his Dodge Ram Truck box side repair panel job. Turned out beautiful, now freshly painted red.
The owner being a novice welder, I would recommend tack welding it every half inch grind the high spots off the tack welds without undercutting them.
Then seal the finished joint with a coat of water proof "Duroglas" by USC company, then go to your bondo finishing. The joint will be plenty strong and it is up high enough so water is not going to get into the joint on the inside.
The trouble with welding it solid is extream heat going into it and warping the whole panel, and an aweful lot of grinding to get it cleaned up for bondo.
Being a novice welder you can pretty much guarantee that you are not going to get it 100% sealed by welding it solid anyway, there is always going to be pinholes in your welds.
You can screw your new lap joint together with small sheet metal screws about 4" apart to hold your panels together and straight before and during your tack welding. Then jump around with your tack welding and allow things to cool as you go, can assist with an air blower after each tack weld to cool it.
Less heat, less warpage, held firmly in place = less warpage.
Good Luck on your project, you will be an expert when finished.
For the old school look on the slotted polished aluminum wheels I use WD-40 and fine steel wool to clean and shine them and protect them.
Easy to go over them again after a year if you want to freshen them up again this way. Final wipe down and polish with an old clean T Shift, soft cotton cloth. The WD-40 protects them from the elements too.
People use the Mother's Aluminum Polish too, but this gives more of a chrome look to the wheels and takes an aweful lot of work to get them there and keep them looking that way.
I don't care for the chrome look finish on the Aluminums, more of a brushed look or a lightly polished look is what I feel is correct for the period they were popular, and are still popular today.
Just like the Aluminum Wheels on my Truck, more of a brushed look and very easy to maintain.
Even WD-40 and a a scotch brite pad and wipe down polish with a soft cotton cloth gives a nice slightly polished brushed look.
Going with the so called grain of the wheel to create a nice uniform brushed pattern and not a bunch of cross hatching like inside a cylinder wall.
That's why I like the Aluminum wheels, you can always bring them back to shine, unlike a chipped rusted chrome rim that pretty mush makes those junk when they reach that point.
dart swanger
Well-Known Member
Ya Im gonna use the proper size wire. Body guy definety used .035.
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