Warpage

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pomonamissel said:
who told you that ? its a surface stretcher , how is that shrink metal . i have them , and it f...up the surface so bad there is no way to fix it nice , the metal is warped and needs to be put back in line not beat up . every panel gets stretched when it goes through the dies of the press , now you weld on it , it warps not stretches . some shrinkage along the weld , but no need for that aggressive hammer head . believe it or not you heat the metal then wet rag it to shrink metal , buts after you've worked it all out , so you can deal with the full areas . just how i've done it for years , tot by my father , he was a true metal man he never needed bondo .
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How many do you need?
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pomonamissel said:
who told you that ? its a surface stretcher , how is that shrink metal . i have them , and it f...up the surface so bad there is no way to fix it nice , the metal is warped and needs to be put back in line not beat up . every panel gets stretched when it goes through the dies of the press , now you weld on it , it warps not stretches . some shrinkage along the weld , but no need for that aggressive hammer head . believe it or not you heat the metal then wet rag it to shrink metal , buts after you've worked it all out , so you can deal with the full areas . just how i've done it for years , tot by my father , he was a true metal man he never needed bondo .
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Your father must have been a metal finisher back in the day when there was thicker better metal in the car bodies.

Pick and file was the technique they tought us in autobody school in 1974. Pick up the low spots with a pick hammer or a reach in pry pick pry bar, then file the metal to shape again. Sand, primer surfacer it and paint

They showed us lead filling too, just so we would know how to do it.

We all hit the ground running and went straight to the bondo and never looked back.
Got to give it to those old world craftmen that could do the metal finishing, no easy task.

I use my metal finishing skills for resurfacing old school aluminum slot wheels, make them look brand new again after 50 years.

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Time to hook up with Rick at old time garage in bc. Been following him on youtube for a couple years.
 
Honestly I might tackle the passenger side myself this winter, figure I can't do any worse than what was done. At least I can flip her over on her side now to clean up the under belly.
 
Okay so I'm absolutely no body man whatsoever so take this for what it's worth. I have a customer who has a 65 GTO and had extensive rear quarter panel damage on one and corrosion on another one.. on the passenger side he said he wanted to just completely take off the whole rear fender and put a new one on and he had ordered it. I said look I'm no body man but I'm more than willing to help you. So he got a torch and melt it out the Lead at the roof line and we drilled out the pop rivets. We cut a lot of the fender out right up to the rivets on the door end and on the trunk and and anywhere needed around the wheel lips and everywhere. we took off the entire fender from door to tail light from roof to wheel well... We lined it up using measurements from the passenger side from front to back and so forth. It turned out excellent. So he decided to save some money and buy some patches for the driver side and the same thing that has happened here happened to him. Too much warpage still way too much body work to be done to it. We ended up just buying a whole driver side quarter panel from roof to door two tail light two wheel well... In the end much much easier. With virtually only one spot that needed body work at the roofline. He was able to take a week or two and really work those two roofline seems into something that I would say was absolutely perfect. We ended up doing the trunk the tail light panel and everything. Even putting major patches on the floor boards and all four floor Wells... LOL the only good part of the car was the roof...
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^^^^you see on this panel we cut it off kind of one piece at a time so we can get easier access to the rivets to drill them out...
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And here back in epoxy primer with again just the very littlest bit of body work done to cover the roof seam backup...
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^^^^here it is dropped off at the body shop for its last little bit of prep work and paint...
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^^^ 13 days later we were picking it up...
I've seen I sure of classics at car shows and what they ought to look like in this card definitely turned out B plus or a minus at the very least... Considering it was a $6,800 paint job and not 10 or 20 I think it turned out absolutely awesome..
Definitely no Bondo wagon for sure...
 
dart swanger said:
Honestly I might tackle the passenger side myself this winter, figure I can't do any worse than what was done. At least I can flip her over on her side now to clean up the under belly.
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Sure beats laying on the floor. I have no regrets building my rotisserie,and bolting it to my hoist. Makes a difficult task easy.
 
Ya I'm loving the rotisserie. I didn't make it but when the local KMS tools had a sale I picked one up for just over a grand
 
J par. I was also thinking of full quarters. I wanted to keep as much original metal as possible. Driver side was worst than the passenger side.

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I'd never done any major body panel replacement until last year when I replaced the left 1/4 panel on my 75 Dart Sport. I had done some patching and replacement of areas in the trunk floor, but figured I would give it a shot, the replacement panel came with the car so what did I have to lose except some time. The results aren't perfect, but I'm not unhappy with it either, go ahead and take a chance doing it yourself, you can't do any worse than the "bodyman" did.
 
dart swanger said:
J par. I was also thinking of full quarters. I wanted to keep as much original metal as possible. Driver side was worst than the passenger side.

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dart swanger said:
But with the half off sale on quarter skins at AMD I couldn't pass those savings up.
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Yes it was very obvious that the original metal was much thicker. But again to have those ultra true body lines.
also he did try like I said patch panels on the driver side and they just ended up looking like they were going to need another for $500 worth of body work. Why not just spend the 650 and buy an entire new quarter panel and have it pinned straight just like the other one....
Or have a cheap hundred and $50 panel and $500 worth of body work and end up with big chunks of Bondo basically for the same ballpark price....
of course not arguing or anything that's just a conclusion we came up with for his car....
 
Also I must add that his car came out much better than just okay or he can live with it but it looks awesome... Not concourse perfect but damn damn good...
 
My car is definitely not gonna be a show car nor do I want one. My plan is to stuff a modern drive train in it and drive the **** out of it. lol.
 
dart swanger said:
My car is definitely not gonna be a show car nor do I want one. My plan is to stuff a modern drive train in it and drive the **** out of it. lol.
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dart swanger said:
Just want the car to be structurally sound.
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LOL and just for conversation's sake isn't it structurally sound now just the way it is all welded up like that? Definitely not a show car LOL... Come on now we all want a straight vehicle. Or we just buy a nasty rust bucket and toss them motor in it and drive it.. you could have done a modern drivetrain in it and left it just the way it was and it wouldn't have fallen apart.. at least no more than it already was lol...
But my real question to you is have you already spent more than it costs to just buy a complete quarter panel on that quarter panel and will you even spend more before it's done?...
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Not trying to be a smarty pants...
 
There's already another member here that has a 69 Dart and I really like him a lot and he's already bought those patch panels. And I see the same scenario coming down the road. Oh you save some buying those patch panels instead of the full fender, but by the time he goes through welding wire and sanding discs and Bondo and pulls his hair out a million times I'll be able to just shake my head quietly.. I think there's something about pennywise....
 
Would be easier if I lived in the States but shipping and the dollar difference into Canada is the decision maker. I bought the car with no drive train and it sat in a field since the early 80s. I wanna be on top of things structually for when it has to have a inspection. I am agreeing with you that full quarters would have been nice.

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