famous bob
mopar misfit
straight water .
Would like to know which r/b pump, pumps the most myself.
Water pump impeller styles?
- Thread starter Mopar92
- Start date
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Would like to know which r/b pump, pumps the most myself.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
By design the 8 blade pushes more coolant.
But it also cavitates lower in the RPM's because of it.
I run the 8 because 90% of my normal driving is at lower RPM's on tight little streets and small hills. (My Dart is my service vehicle)
As far as coolant water cools best unless a wetter product is used, but also keep in mind that it boils at a lower temp also.
But it also cavitates lower in the RPM's because of it.
I run the 8 because 90% of my normal driving is at lower RPM's on tight little streets and small hills. (My Dart is my service vehicle)
As far as coolant water cools best unless a wetter product is used, but also keep in mind that it boils at a lower temp also.
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
I always understood cavitation happened at a higher speed. Any impeller. Or propeller.
Yes.
Sealing off the back should reduce the cavitation.
If running straight water, there are a few products on the market to improve its heat transfer characteristics. I'm not sure if they change the conduction property directly or work more on the viscosity to improve heat transfer. Some include corrossion inhibitors - which is important, especially on a partially open system.
Sealing off the back should reduce the cavitation.
If running straight water, there are a few products on the market to improve its heat transfer characteristics. I'm not sure if they change the conduction property directly or work more on the viscosity to improve heat transfer. Some include corrossion inhibitors - which is important, especially on a partially open system.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That is true, and the less blades the higher RPM can be without cavitation.
In my own case I felt I need more blades for more volume at lower RPM's.
The products like Water Wetter have an ingredient that lets the water make better contact to the metal inside the engine so the coolant gets more of the heat transferred to it.
They use the words "surface tension" properties to describe what it does.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
6 vane pump = AC pump
8 vane pump = Non AC pump
AC cars used a smaller water pump pulley.
On a non AC car, always use the 8 vane pump.
That's a pretty trick pump. That's cool they are selling them now with the non cavitation plate. Flowkooler was the only company I know of selling a pump with the plate.
Edelbrock's is one of the slickest impeller of that variety.
Unfortunately I found it was neccessary to do a little clearence grinding on the outside of the inlet. You can see the point of contact in the photo. I wrote them about it - not sure if they followed up with a change. (This was in 2005)
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
That is slick. Never knew they made a water pump.
Other than that interference during installation, it has worked great. I did ditch the brass fittings they supplied and used stainless hose ends instead. Brass contacting aluminum just rubs me wrong.
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
One has never seen electrolysis locktite until they remove brass from aluminum. I know brass doesn’t corrode... but I’ve been around boats and I don’t blame you.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I`m 71, been using brass for -all my life. Have built 2 hemis , 2 hot sbc , and now a440/505 , have used brass in all of them. Also was a plumber for over 45 yrs., have not had any problems w. brass. In some situations, s. steel will gauld in alum. tho !
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
The answer to that is "plain water".
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