water wetter

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didnt do crap for my car, then again i added it too the coolant haha
 
Well, you guys piqued my interest in this thread. The common ingredient used by Chrlyserfat's fabric softener, Arco440's Cascade, and the Honda coolant used in the citation provided by autoxcuda is the chemical class of compounds called "surfactants" (SURFace ACTive AgeNTs). Their purpose is to lower or break the water surface tension and allow it to wet surfaces more evenly. They help the water to wet the inside diameter surfaces of the radiator tubes and thus increase heat transfer to the cooling fins. In other words, cavitation voids at the tube surface created by the flowing (swirling) water are either eliminated or minimized. I suspect that Water Wetter is a surfactant.

Anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) is used to keep the water from freezing in cold temperatures by lowering the freezing point of the water/glycol mixture. It also happens to raise the boiling point of the same mixture but it won't necessarily increase the heat transfer efficiency.

As far as using an anode, I recall that in the "good old days", you could purchase a radiator cap with an anode. I think it is now a common practice for such a radiator cap to be used with aluminum headed/block engines.

So go ahead and purchase the surfactant of your choice whether it's fabric softener, liquid detergent, or automotive product.

Art
 
so anti freeze isnt needed if you live in so cal? just water and wetter water or something of that sort?
 
.... you are runnin a 360/380 hiwinding small block with a 410 gear set at 70 MPH on the freeway? AND you are wondering why it is running a little warm? next time you are out doing that look at your tach and tell us what RPMs you are revvin constantly going down the freeway at 70. Back in 72 I had a 340 built to 69 specs and a 3:91 gearset with a 727 and I was lucky to pull 60 mph for extended periods. that thing has to be screamin at 70
 
psh mines around 190-200 at 60 idk why ur saying something haha
 
74Burntorange said:
so anti freeze isnt needed if you live in so cal? just water and wetter water or something of that sort?
Click to expand...

No, not needed here in the So Cal low lands.

Car will cool better with Coolant Additive and distilled water. The JB Super Cool has more properties than just being a surfacant. The JB Super Cool has rust and acid protection.

But for a water only system you should add the JB Radiator Protectant. It has has strong anti rust properties, anti electrolysis properties, AND water pump lubricants. The JB Radiator Protectant has Metal Deviators that act as a ground bridging through the cooling system.

The pitting, holes, and scale in the small block Mopar timing chain covers is from electrolysis, acid, and cavitation. Same goes for aluminum intake water passages. The two products above help prevent that.

The problem with using dish wash as a surfacant is the other properties it has for washing dishes. And it lacks other non surfacant properties needed for cars. Also, what mixing ratio do you use? Wash you dishes with dish soap and put proven automotive grade products in your auto.
 
cool thanks do you know what Ratio I should use when just water and a additive?
 
OK, when I made my final comment I was still thinking in cast iron terms.

Do not use Cascade liquid in a system that includes aluminum heads, block, or aluminum components such as the timing chain cover or thermostat housing. Liquid detergent is alkaline and would corrode aluminum. Using a sacrificial anode such as Zinc might work.

Fabric softener is not alkaline and should be safe. I will check this out Saturday.

I am scratching my head over the term "Metal Deviators" and what is claimed that it does. I will try to find a bottle of the stuff and see what the label says. The JB website does not use that term.

Autoxcuda has the right idea. Best to be safe and use a product designed for an automobile application.

Changing the distilled water and treatment solution at least once a year is a good practice.
 
74Burntorange said:
cool thanks do you know what Ratio I should use when just water and a additive?
Click to expand...

For Justice Brothers products, one bottle of Super Radiator Cooler RC/22P and one bottle of Radiator Protectant CSP/1P for a automobile system in your Mopar.
 
DFX 340 Duster said:
OK, when I made my final comment I was still thinking in cast iron terms.

...
I am scratching my head over the term "Metal Deviators" and what is claimed that it does. I will try to find a bottle of the stuff and see what the label says. The JB website does not use that term.

Autoxcuda has the right idea. Best to be safe and use a product designed for an automobile application.

...
Click to expand...

The "metal deviators" is just a collective term for ingedients that protect the metals from electrolysis. It's just to describe without spelling out confidential trade formulas


Checking electrolysis...

Use a voltmeter with the negative to chassis ground and the positive submerged in the coolant tank. With the engine cold and running, voltage in you system should be less that 0.10 volts
 
Wetter Water works for me. I've used it on several vehicles.
 
How do I flush the entire system out, I only want water and the Additive I put in, either justice brothers or Dei or Water Wetter
 
I used it. Not quite sure if she does something, but I'm sure it did not hurt anything. It will not solve a chronic problem of overheating, but can help if your car is running slightly warmer than you want.
 
iggys68dart said:
i have used it with no satisfaction my problem was on a 86 elcamino that had tstat removed so i replaced that and life was better so what i am trying to say is its not a great way to fix your prob i got the same prob so i need to recore or buy another rad cause the get funky with time kinda like me lol
Click to expand...

I think I found your problem.........the elcamio
 
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