Weight loss.

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So making another dash and this time I took some separate tows and pushed them into the small trim details before the main carbon. To give the fine details more strength. Worked well. No filler work really, well except on the button.

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I’m in Connecticut, but I just watched videos on the Easy Composite website. Also watched videos from a guy the road races a mustang, can’t for the life of me remember his name. Buy supplies through US composites. Price seems ok, I buy the clearance CF with the glass trace fiber. Most everything I’m going to make has to be painted. I just dove in. You have to really pay attention to parallel surfaces when making the mold. Like making a mold of the 68 340 unsilenced fed air cleaner seems pretty simple. Blast it, prime it, wax it, and mount it to plywood with packing tape on the plywood. You would want to raise it off the surface 1/8” so it has a cleaner transition. Fill the gap with non hardening plasticine(clay) wax it and spray it with PVA release agent. Here’s the problem, the long parallel sides are going to make it a nightmare to get the original and any part out of the mold. Two piece mold eliminates that, but doubles the molding process. I had to use a hydraulic press to push my CF wiper motor out of the mold. Crushed the mold, part survived though.

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furrystump said:
I’m in Connecticut, but I just watched videos on the Easy Composite website. Also watched videos from a guy the road races a mustang, can’t for the life of me remember his name. Buy supplies through US composites. Price seems ok, I buy the clearance CF with the glass trace fiber. Most everything I’m going to make has to be painted. I just dove in.
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Great thanks, I'll be right over lol.
Thank you for the advice on where to watch.
 
So, decided to lose some weight out of the brakes. I’m currently running the original Kelsey & Hayes 4 piston front brakes. I have to run the steel 14” wheel. The car currently has small bolt 14” wheels, but I will need to change to big bolt pattern. The big bolt wheel has more clearance at the weld area for the caliper. I chose the Strange kit for 10” drum spindles with the upgraded low profile Evo calipers. Even so I will need run a 1/4” spacer. I could have ground the caliper, where it hit is a bolt boss that holds the caliper pad pin in.

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I’m sure there is nothing there to worry about, but the thin spacer will just give room all over. The kit is nice, just a couple of things I ran in to. They expect you to be putting the kit on a car WITH 10” drum brakes. Not using 10” spindles on a disc car. So I wasn’t expecting to need to change the lower ball joint. The bolt/holes are bigger on the disc ball joints than the bolts on the drum ball joints. No biggie because I had drum ball joints.





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Also I needed to drill the spindle for a new cotter pin location. If you don’t use the thick keyed washer, the original pin hole works fine. I don’t really know what the purpose of the washer is. The nut contacts the inner bearing race fully, which is what matters. The washer keeps the grease in the bearing? The cage and cotter pin keep it from backing off. Who knows. Also had to figure out which spindle went where. They are side specific. Add in I got it stuck in my head the kit was rear caliper placement (it is not)! I found out which goes where on here.

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The total kit weighs the same as the original rotor.

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So the brake change resulted in 38 lbs total off the car. 18 lbs of it rotating weight.

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The
 
Well it’s official! I’m a Dumba$$! When I built the car in 2009 I was never happy with the drag in the K&H front brakes. Over the years I played with them but no real change. I just chalked it up to that being how the K&H brakes were. After installing the new brakes they dragged also. Played with the adjustable pushrod, no change. I found this hiding in the front brake port. DOH! Still was the original pads.

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furrystump said:
Well it’s official! I’m a Dumba$$! When I built the car in 2009 I was never happy with the drag in the K&H front brakes. Over the years I played with them but no real change. I just chalked it up to that being how the K&H brakes were. After installing the new brakes they dragged also. Played with the adjustable pushrod, no change. I found this hiding in the front brake port. DOH! Still was the original pads.

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That'll do it...
 
Wow your lucky you didn't burn things up!

Was it a disk / drum master?
 
I guess that could be an explanation of why you are so slow?
 
When I got the master cylinder in 2009, they said disc/drum, however this was just after I returned a rebuilt one that the piston looked like some beaver gnawed on it! It does have equal size reservoirs on it, but the size difference was never an issue, I really should have gone looking more. I knew everything else was from the original K&H disc set up. Proportioning valve, distribution block, actually never cracked a bleeder and notice the drag go away or I would have scorched earth everything until I found it. Spent 1/2 an hour shooting brake clean through the master without the piston in it. Brake clean shot through every hole each way. Search online and found a video about how to remove them from a master cylinder. Very easy process. I’m slow because I’m FAT and stupid!
 
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