Weight loss.

-
Did you guys use adhesion promoter before painting? Bulldog brand is supposed to be good. I’ve actually used truck bed liner thinned out with reducer (sprayed through a paint gun) and it’s not too far off the wrinkle paint. Just a thought.

1/10 in the 60 is pretty good, you’re clearly on the right track. If you’re on 14s Would going to 15” wheels be of any benefit? Perhaps a shock update?
I’m just using rattle can sandable primer, I’m sure my issues were temperature induced. Cold part, cold can. Rushing to get it done. Thinking heat gun will solve everything… 100 deg ish part and room temp can. Worked well. I am at my limits in shock adjustment, but pretty happy with how it moves. It is close on being too fast on front end rise and I’m taking 20 lbs off the nose. Push me over the edge? We’ll see, if it does, I can lower the nose 1/2 or a full turn. Make it travel farther.
 
Last edited:
Not allowed to run 15's unless it came with them.
Sorry, I thought it was legal to run a larger diameter as long as they “look the part”. Guess that’s why it’s called stock tire! I really don’t know anything.

Regardless, you guys never cease to amaze me with what you’re able to accomplish in this class. Keep it up.
 
I am not too concerned with weight loss as I slow my car down for the classes I run anyhow but : I recently went from a TTI " H " pipe and Flowmaster 40 mufflers that weighed 51 lbs total to an all aluminum system including the mufflers and the whole system weighs 14 lbs for a 37 lb weight savings. Many years ago I swapped from 11 inch drum brakes on the rear that weighed 72 lbs including all the hardware , shoes , drums etc. to a Wilwood disc brake system that weighed 22 lbs for everything for a 50 lb savings.

View attachment 1716386903


How does that aluminum exhaust hold up? It is just aluminum from the flange back, or does it change somewhere else along the line?
 

How does that aluminum exhaust hold up? It is just aluminum from the flange back, or does it change somewhere else along the line?
Its only been on the car a month or two, aluminum from the collector flange back , I really like it !!
 
Supposed to run Cecil county Friday/Saturday, unless they cancel for weather. A group might test at Lebanon Valley if it does rain out at Cecil.
 
Haven’t read the entire thread but I have a few questions .
Brett… did you make both the bottom cushion and the folding seat back ? My 68 Fastback rear folding seatback weighs a ton ! Did you make a lightweight console ? Another ton of weight …. I would consider a bench due to weight of buckets and console .

@Scampin how in the hell do you get that car to 60ft like that with one size over stock tire size. ! I have a 68 Barracuda and used to have a 73 Dart Sport ( both 4sp ) … weight distribution is good on both but that is unreal ! I could dip into the 1.5s with slicks but not with tiny tires .
And has anyone experimented with aluminum exhaust manifolds ?
 
The console is completely carbon fiber. I used chrome vinyl wrap to simulate the chrome. Made molds of the existing console parts and made it in 5 pieces. The two top plates, the ash tray lid, the storage bin and the console structure. The rear seat bottom is still the real deal. The back is a carbon shell with all the trim and seat cover attached. The original back weight 49 lbs? The shell weighed 3 lbs, but ended up at 12 lbs with all the trim and carpet/cover. I made it fixed, the original hinges were monsters! There are pictures of the seat back and console near the beginning.
 
The carbon fiber rear seat back was absolute genius. Wish I had the brain power to come up with stuff like that.

Since I don't need to make the interior look stock, this is how I handled the rear seat area in my Duster. Eventually the platform will get carpeted and the rear firewall will have an upholstered panel over it like the '68 Hemi Darts. it will get sealed from the trunk with rubber strips. The trunk battery wiring passes through under the platform. The aluminum firewall is the NHRA minimum thickness (can't remember what it is) so very light. Got the material at the Bargain Barn in Meriden.

Never liked the gutted race car look so the platform makes it appear a little more finished. Probably saves about 35lbs. over the seat. The platform frame is welded 1x flat steel stock but it's just a skeleton to mount the flat panels. Came out OK I guess, will obviously be better when finished.
IMG_8721.jpg


Sorry to hijack but thought it might be a useful idea if you don't need a rear seat and want a more finished appearance.
 
Aluminum exhaust manifolds are one of those personal gray areas for me. I've talked to a couple people that can make the exhaust manifolds and intake manifold out of aluminum. I view it like I view an aluminum block. Could I do it and get away with it, probably yes. Would it be better, for sure. But the whole point and challenge of the class is to take the correct hard parts and see what you can do with them. If you start deviating from that, you get into the what's the point. If I wanted to get the car into the nines without the rules of the class I could do it tomorrow.

Best 60' so far is 1.45. The car uses basically a stock front suspension with roller bearings instead of bushings, slant six bars, Viking shocks, homemade rear leafs with Viking shocks in the rear. Just very particular on setup and making sure everything moves smoothly.
 
Had a question about the bottom surface. The wrinkle doesn’t print through to mold side.

IMG_2641.jpeg
 
I can’t run body parts in my class, but other than the physical size they are pretty straight forward. The issues I run into is getting fine details out of a part. A broad curved panel would be pretty easy. Easy Composites has a video where they did a hood. Basically make two molds. One for the top, the other for the structure. Then bond them together. They did it using infusion, but you could probably wet lay up the part and vacuum bag it. Making flat cf sheet is VERY easy. You need a mirror or piece of glass thick enough to stay flat. Wax it 3-4 times then mix your epoxy resin, brush a coat on the glass and lay down the cf. pour some resin on the cf and carefully squeegee it around to saturate the CF. Repeat until you have your desired thickness. Have a beer. It will have some pin holes from air bubbles, but it will be fine. Unless you have a bunch of layers it will be flexible, but good for panels. The geometry of a cf part gives it rigidity.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top Bottom