Weld the upper ball joint in ?

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grassy said:
I have been told by quite a few folks who have worked on A bodies that after I put the upper ball joint in the upper control arm, that I should put a spot weld in it to keep it in place.

That sounds a bit radical to me...maybe blue or red loctite instead ?

I also notice (and I asked this question where I bought the pieces) that the ball joint leaves quite a space above the knuckle when inserted. I was told that the seal which fills with grease takes up this difference and I should just torque the but to what ever the specification is.

Thoughts ?

Thanks
ian.
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I noticed my ball joint was a bit loose when I pressed it in so I put four stitch welds around it and it has held up for 50k?? I am a tig welder and fabricator for a living and if this is done right there is nothing wrong with it. You can even grind out the old welds if you need to replace again. The only reason this could fail is if the welder did not know what he was doing. I welded on top fuel chassis for Murf Mckinney for years and you would be surprised how little weld it takes, done right that is. To keep a car together. No worries.
 
[QUOiverwade2;1969916038]I noticed my ball joint was a bit loose when I pressed it in so I put four stitch welds around it and it has held up for 50k?? I am a tig welder and fabricator for a living and if this is done right there is nothing wrong with it. You can even grind out the old welds if you need to replace again. The only reason this could fail is if the welder did not know what he was doing. I welded on top fuel chassis for Murf Mckinney for years and you would be surprised how little weld it takes, done right that is. To keep a car together. No worries.[/QUOTE]

One question why did you press in your upper ball joints?
 
Yep,building Top Fuel chassis for Chebby,s LOL.The ball joints thread in,not pressed in.:tard::coffee2:
 
There are alot of shops out there that press them out and in. I got into a discussion with a mechanic about this . He was sure and couldn't be convinced otherwise that the threads were ribs to hold the joint after being press in at the factory. So there must be control arms out there that were pressed in the past.
 
I learned from my mentor long ago, It's a good idea. If you have access to a welder I say go for it.
 
pettybludart said:
Yep,building Top Fuel chassis for Chebby,s LOL.The ball joints thread in,not pressed in.:tard::coffee2:
Click to expand...

Was talking about how little weld it takes, done right that is...
Its funny the guys that have to talk ****... Let me guess. Your a parts changer...:tard:
 
dennday67 said:
[QUOiverwade2;1969916038]I noticed my ball joint was a bit loose when I pressed it in so I put four stitch welds around it and it has held up for 50k?? I am a tig welder and fabricator for a living and if this is done right there is nothing wrong with it. You can even grind out the old welds if you need to replace again. The only reason this could fail is if the welder did not know what he was doing. I welded on top fuel chassis for Murf Mckinney for years and you would be surprised how little weld it takes, done right that is. To keep a car together. No worries.
Click to expand...

One question why did you press in your upper ball joints?[/QUOTE]

I had to use the press to get them back in? It's a 97 ram and they had what looks like a knurled surface, or splined a bit. I must have distorted the one I had to weld pressing it out because the rest went back in tight. It's just a wood hauler anyway? Or get a new control arm if that's your thing?
 
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